PS pump, plugs, brakes, and a hub

[shelby987]

I came across a z34 this weekend that needs some repair. I am new to the w-body cars, but not new to automotive repair. When I opened the hood, I knew I was gonna have a couple of questions regarding the maintance on this car, so here goes.

 

What is the time and procedure for replacing these items:

Power steering pump and high pressure lines

Front hubs (likely to do a rotor and pads swap at the same time, assume its pretty straight forward).

Rear Spark plugs (I was told to remove the front dog bone motor mount, put the car into 1st, and push it forward until the engine rotates to make these plugs accessible....is this true, or am i going to have to go at it with a couple of u-joints on my rachet?).

 

Any other basic maintance I should plan on having to do? I was thinking it would be a good idea to change the engine and transmission oil....this may start a big debate....any specific recommendations for this engine and trans (manual transmission).

 

Thanks

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

I am not sure about the PS pump on the DOHC, but on the 3.1s it's straightforward. I'm sure someone else will chime in about that.

 

Hubs are also straightforward, and front brakes are easy on these cars. Remove the brake caliper and then remove the bolts and the hub is off...

 

You are correct with the spark plugs- just tilt the engine forward. You can even do it in park.

 

Yes, it's good to change the oil and tranny fluid. For oil you probably wanna use a good synthetic since those are high revving engines. But depending on how you drive regular oil should be just fine also. For the tranny drop the pan and change the filter.

[shelby987]

seems to be a little confusion, its a manual transmission, so there is no park, but does the same principle apply (in gear, and push to rotate the engine?)

 

Also, I have been told that GM makes an oil for manual transmissions that is pretty much the best stuff you can buy, but its name escapes me, can anyone help me with that?

 

Never been a big fan of synthetic, always used regular Castrol GTX, but can switch to Synthetic if a general consencious agrees its best (been told if your engine seals aren't top notch, a switch to synthetic will find any and all possible oil leaks).

 

Thanks for the rest of the information!

[Guest TurboSedan]

it's called GM Syncromesh. it's around $10/quart from the GM dealership. i think the Getrag 284 has a capacity of 2.2 quarts.

[3pt1lumina]

i only use synthetic oils on my our new cars because of that same reasoning of "finding any and all leaks" On all of our old cars i use regular pennzoil or havoline or something like that.

[digitaloutsider]

3.4 rear plugs aren't the easiest thing in the world. Yes, you can unbolt the dogbone, but the engine isn't going to move that far. It's pretty much taking up all the room there is in that small bay. Remove the weather stripping near the windshield wipers. If you want, cut some notches into this metal lip so you can have a place for your ratchet or extention. 96-97's are different and require pulling the plenum, IIRC.