UPDATE - Not the fuel pump - Mechanic clueless

[grandprix104]

so whats the trick and whose brilliant idea was it to put the strap mount bolts underneath the rear leaf spring and exaust pipe?

 

Does anyone have the procedure to remove this damn thing

[Guest Gp crazy]

Undo the front of the strap's but spray them first! Then take your bolts to a local hardware store and get some bolts that are 1/2 inch longer. This will make reinstall easier. Watch your vent lines they may break off if not careful.

i hope this helps

Replace, Tank, Strainer & Pump, Sender, Fuel filter if you can do this will ensure you will not have to do this again when the tank is full

[Turbo231]

Yep...don't. You can undo the fronts and slide the tank out.

 

Procedure to remove your fuel pump, which includes the tank:

 

http://members.aol.com/regal231/fuel.htm

 

Ben

[grandprix104]

so how do you get at the front bolt under the exhast pipe heat shield?

[manitcor]

so how do you get at the front bolt under the exhast pipe heat shield?

 

drop the back half of your exhaust on the ground.

[Turbo231]

The heat shield is just held on with 3 little bolts IIRC...remove the shield and then you have access to the bolt. I did not have to undo anything on the exhaust itself.

[3pt1lumina]

If you can use the same straps over and only take out the 2 front bolts, if not the other 2 bolts are a PITA and it just takes time.

 

Need any major specifics send me a PM, my buddy and I did it on his 93 Regal so I can probably help ya out, its pretty much self explanatory tho.

[grandprix104]

So after 2 hours of testing and messing around with my damn car the mechanic ruled out the fuel pump but doesnt have a clue what the problem is but my fuel pressure is 39-40psi

 

Anyhow, does anyone have a clue as to what this might be.

 

The car stutters and almost dies whenever you push on the gas even a little bit. it will do this from a standstill or at highway speed (if you can get it going that fast). If you are coasting or if you let off the gas it will run smoothly again.

 

Sometimes I hate my car

[maybe2fast]

FPR...or a clogged Fuel Filter

[grandprix104]

forgot to mention the fuel filter was just replaced yesterday.

 

Also if the FPR was not working then my pressure reading would be off wouldnt it?

[GP1138]

Check the crank sensor, and the related wiring. Also the coilpacks. I had a problem where I'd routed the crank wiring that went from the sensor to the ICM around the O2 on the downpipe, causing the wiring insulation to slowly melt and the wires to short to themselves and the manifold.

 

Though if you haven't messed with it, that's a longshot, but it's something to think about.

[DaveFromColorado]

fuel injector, I damn near gaurentee it.

 

what's happening, is either one or two injectors are way too high on the resistance, or way too low, and when you give it extra throtle the computer will try to overrun the injectors for the accel enrichment, in doing this, the one or two bad injectors will cause a fault in the quad driver and shut down all the injectors at once - I'd warm the engine up (not too hot) and pull the plenum and do an ohm test to all the injectors - I'll bet you find a couple bad ones.

 

--Dave.

[Turbo231]

Did you do a load test on the Fuel pressure? A car at idle can have no problem holding fuel pressure but when any demand is put on the system, poof....fuel pressure craps out. It should follow manifold vacuum...so at WOT, there should be 40ish psi fuel pressure...less pressure at idle when manifold vacuum is high.

 

I'm thinking bad pump, or kink in the line...fuel sox failure preventing any fuel volume from moving.

 

Of course, I've only done this in my Fiero...cause the engine is close to a hood opening and I taped the fuel gauge to the rear window. I'm sure you can work it out on your car.

 

I also like the fuel injector idea, but I'm as lazy as the next guy and like to find the easiest problem first. Push comes to shove, check the ohms on your ignition system, coils and sensors.

 

Ben

[91oldscutlass]

fuel injector, I damn near gaurentee it.

 

what's happening, is either one or two injectors are way too high on the resistance, or way too low, and when you give it extra throtle the computer will try to overrun the injectors for the accel enrichment, in doing this, the one or two bad injectors will cause a fault in the quad driver and shut down all the injectors at once - I'd warm the engine up (not too hot) and pull the plenum and do an ohm test to all the injectors - I'll bet you find a couple bad ones.

 

--Dave.

Dave is right. If you guys remember when I had my Cutlass i went thru the same shit. It turned out it was the injectors.

 

Dave told me it was and I dint go that route till last...Thanks Dave for trying to save me time...I am just hard headed.

[grandprix104]

ok well the injectors were all fine when my stepdad checked them during the rebuild but its possible one freaked - it just doesn't seem like that though. The mechanics only guess was that it was the ignition module and my parts guy came to the same conclusion without even suggesting it. I was wondering what you guys thought of this and if there is any way to test the module.

 

Thanks

[GnatGoSplat]

If the injectors are visible, they're real easy to test. Just pull off their connectors and connect an ohmmeter to them. They should measure about 12-13ohms, give or take a couple ohms. If you have one shorting out, it'll measure a lot lower.

 

Ignition module is possible, but I don't know how to test one. I would probably try clamping an inductive timing light to each plug wire and see if they appear to have a normal spark or not.

[DaveFromColorado]

I see injectors go bad on cars for no reason at all ... all the time! it doesn't matter how long ago they were checked, they can be fine one day, and then the next, they've hit their limit and they are bad, either by skyrocketing up in resistance, or shorting out.

 

anything less then (IIRC) 9.5 ohm's and you've got an injector that needs to be replaced, usually they die in pairs as when one is going bad, the next injector in line will get the extra voltage and get killed too.

 

the ICM could* cause this type of problem, but then again, you'd see this problem even at idle.

 

--Dave.