How much am I looking at for..

[GutlessSupreme]

-pre-'94 caliper rebuild kits

 

-New hubs, both front and rear

 

-Replacment lines for the rear calipers. I didn't notice if they're more than one piece, but I hope so. One side has a nick in the line just an inch after the caliper so I'm hoping to just replace that small rubber section of hose, I'll do both sides anyway though.

 

just parts, no labor fees of course.

 

I got into doing my rear brakes today and my driver's side caliper could use some new pieces, and possibly the passenger side as well (oddly enough the sliders were perfectly fine).

 

I also might've fucked up the hubs while trying to remove the rotors.. the driver's side didn't seem to spin as freely as the passenger side anyway, but now the driver's side rotor looks like it might have a little wobble to it when it spins (with the lugnuts on it hand-tight), and the passenger side looks like it might be the same (though I haven't gotten that rotor off yet so it might just have budged on one side and not another).

 

A while ago my car would make a soft, but deep, humming noise whenever turning left on the highway, and at very low speeds I could hear a clicking. When my muffler fell off the exhaust noise kinda drowned out the other noises but obviously they didn't just go away.

 

So that's why I'm doing at least one of the front hubs...

 

Also, sometimes when hitting the brakes in revserse while (the back end) of the car is turning right, the front left brake makes a VERY loud *WOOOMP/SQUEEK* noise. The last time I had the front wheels off, I could see that the outside pad on that wheel had worn almost twice as much as the other front, so I'm kind of assuming a bad caliper there.

 

And lastly, last time I had the front off the ground, I gave the wheel a little shake to see if I could tell if it was that hub or balljoint or anything (driver's side), and it did wobble very slightly side to side, but everything looked solid except for the tie rod. It definetly wasn't loose where it connected to the strut tower, but it seemed as if it was loose further up towards the rack. Could this mean my inner rod end is shot?

[GnatGoSplat]

Don't know on the parts costs... if you shop at O'Reillys, their site lists costs of all parts, pretty handy not to have to stop in or call first. http://www.oreillyauto.com

 

Humming usually does = bad hub, although clicking usually means CV's, but could be other things. In my experience, good hubs feel dampened and firm, while bad ones feel loose.

 

On the tierod, look carefully at the boot on the inner while you shake. If the boot shows any movement, then it's the inner. If the outer tierod boot shows movement, then that's the problem. If the balljoint boot shows movement, then it's a bad balljoint. A bad balljoint on these cars can allow some side-to-side wobble similar to a bad tierod.