futuretgper Posted August 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 even if it does stop smoking my turbo will still need to be rebuilt won't it???? goin off the endplay test??? do i have to get a pcv from the dealership?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 You can get a PCV valve from any auto parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted August 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 sounds good.......im gonna get on this project today since i haven't driven my car for 2 days now...and i have a parts getter car (minivan!!!) now!!! thanks for the help again guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 yea, you should get it rebuilt, but don't go to Garrett because they will probably charge you a grand and replace your housing. They probably had to replace mine because the endplay got so bad that it rubbed on the housing. Actually they had 1 last remanned unit, and they said my core was worthless. so maybe they wont touch anything that has a crack. Oh well, you all have fun with your cracked turbos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 I am going to rust my other turbo and season it. then try to rebuild it myself. I heard that is the cheapest route. I was running out of options at the time so I had to do what I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted August 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 hey so i bought a pcv valve from a local checker...i get home and this entire time im thinking it gos on the top of the front valve cover..... then i look under the hood and this is called the ccv (crankcase control valve or canister control valve)i pulled the metal piece off the tube from the front valve cover to the K&N and its just a hollow tube?? so there is no valve at all for the front valve cover (sounds like im supposed to, ccv)??? am i missing something?? how does changing the pcv under the upper intake stop oil from coming through the front valve cover as bladly?? so to sum it up i think what i need is a ccv since i have no type of valve on between the crankcase and the turbo!! unless i cant see it and its under the rubber grommet on valve cover!!! i bought the k&N from jeff and i haven't altered it so im assuming i dont' need one or im just not seeing it!! im so confused!! on the plus side i got the oil and filter and im going to do that soon!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 Its on the back one. You gotta rock the motor forward and put it in there. Right in her back side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 Its on the back one. You gotta rock the motor forward and put it in there. Right in her back side. He said "back-side" (does anyone remember B&B? ). The PCV Valve as stated goes into the rear valve cover, and since you could not find it, its VERY common for it to not get done or be done by previous owners :shock: . Know that you CANNOT pull hard on the PCV Valve Hose when taking the PCV out, that hose does go under the upper intake and if you pull too hard it can come off. So once you gain access to the PCV move it around until its lose from the valve cover grommet, then lift the PCV till about half way out, then since it won't like going any further, turn it to the side to pop it out a bid sideways, keep it sideways and use some pliers to move the hose clamp up the hose some off the area of the PCV, now spin the PCV in the hose to get it lose from the hose and then it will come out, little snug from age but will come out, reverse order to install. Even if it ever got done in the past, get it done now and start with things proper 8) !! Test drive to see if this helps, either way come home and drain the oil while its warm to get all the old oil to run out more completely, let it drain for an hour to get as much drain, take your time, the car is worth it, then lay a bunch of scott towels under the oil filter and laying over the rubber hoses under it, making a trough for the oil to dump when the filter is removed and your oil pan is there below to catch it. Let that mess drain, fill the new oil filter (take a few tries for it to get in there) to about 3/4 full with your new oil, this helps prime the engine faster upon start-up after an oil/filter change. Wipe the last junky oil off the contact area for the oil filter and slap the new one back on, only hand tight, strong hand it fine, not tools, it will setup like a bitch and not come off next time. Drain plug back in, wipe off the excess oil on the subframe and fill her up with new oil, 4.5 quarts total (including the amount put into the oil filter). Start it up and since it should still be a little warm, won't jump to real high rpms like when cold and watch the oil pressure sit there, then jump up to around 60 psi or more, fit to go, test the blow, or smoke that is . Good luck! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted August 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 what about my question on there being a valve betweent the front valve cover and the fiter (somwhere in the tubing) so your sucking directly from the cover...... there is a little diagram showing a "ccv" that should be in this line.......i don't have any valve anymore....is this right?? (now that i have your, JEFFM, k&N setup) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 what about my question on there being a valve betweent the front valve cover and the fiter (somwhere in the tubing) so your sucking directly from the cover...... there is a little diagram showing a "ccv" that should be in this line.......i don't have any valve anymore....is this right?? (now that i have your' date=' JEFFM, k&N setup)[/quote'] Sorry, only what was replied with mattered JK, no worries on the front, no different than it ran stock, and that means.....nothing there that is missing other than the stock restrictive air filter and box Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted August 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 hahaha, ok so i get everthing done.......spill massive amounts of oil while trying to clean up....then i go in clean up eat go back out to take a drive......start up......alittle rough.....then the oil pressure went up and smoothed out....then i get a SES light......so i idle alittle then shut it off and restart hoping to reset the light (thought it was something small) so i restart no problem.....then i go to put the car in reverse and it kills....tryed again same thing......the only thing i can think is i must have pulled that tube off the bottom of the upper intake........and made nother 2hrs worth of work at least!!!!!!!! would this trip an SES light????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Nah, you probably just bumped the MAP Sensor Wire off, or MAP Vacuum Line off, we hope!!!!! just check down in that area for things hooked up and not broke (vacuum line) or hanging off :shock: Again, Shawn Linn's web site shows how to pull codes with just a short piece of wire, I have even used the ignition and trunk key together to make the "jumper" part work That way you could confirm with the SES code that it was the MAP being pissed off from a vacuum leak. Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Its on the back one. You gotta rock the motor forward and put it in there. Right in her back side. He said "back-side" (does anyone remember B&B? ). Jeff M no what's that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Ahh dude, people did forget , other than Ren and Stimpy being there first I believe as ultra crude, Beavis and Butt-Head (B& the original crude boys long before Jack-ass the movie and all that that followed B&B. Oh well . Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted August 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 haha beavis & butthead....im barely old enough to have seen that show and still get some of it.....last time i saw that show i was probably 12 or 13...now im 19. hey so i was gonna pull the intake....but first i checked my other vaccum lines....aka the map sensor cuase its right by where i was working.....sure enough its pulled off....so i stuck it in and she fired up and ran normally.....but i went for a short drive, 5 miles maby, and she still smokes like a stack!!!!! so should i keep driving it to give the new oil some time to do its magic or what?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted August 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 haha beavis & butthead....im barely old enough to have seen that show and still get some of it.....last time i saw that show i was probably 12 or 13...now im 19. hey so i was gonna pull the intake....but first i checked my other vaccum lines....aka the map sensor cuase its right by where i was working.....sure enough its pulled off....so i stuck it in and she fired up and ran normally.....but i went for a short drive, 5 miles maby, and she still smokes like a stack!!!!! so should i keep driving it to give the new oil some time to do its magic or what?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Well good it was just a simple fix for the MAP line, sorry its still a smokey Even though the rest of your engine should be happier and run better for a longer time with your efforts, sounds like the turbo is still toasted, unless you did not check the turbo oil drain line for a kink, kind of doubt it but check it then if its ok, time to yank the turbo and get it rebuilt. Bummer, if you are lucky and you should, only need a new compressor wheel (not a lot of $$) since it pulls to that wheel when worn and not on the turbine wheel and shaft (one-piece). They might offer to polish your compressor housings so ask the price as it's a nice bonus if you have this unexpected expense!! I won't tell you what age I was when I was into B&B but it was too bad they had to go, but South Park took it to the next level, and Family Guy, Robot Chicken (I though this was an old guy/me ), at the rate of what has been gotten away with over the last 10 years, I cannot imagine what will happen in another 10 years from now, we keep pushing the limits so fast for the all mighty dollar we are going to run out of new/fresh (if you can call it fresh) profitable viewing material, but its not the American way to be concerned with anything beyond our own life expectancy, but our children and theirs will look back at embarrassment at our excess and short term stupid thinking!!! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted August 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 jeff, or anyone in mn, you guys know any good turbo rebuilders in-state!!!!!?? cuase i would rather do that then ship my turbo out and all that nonsense!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 jeff' date=' or anyone in mn, you guys know any good turbo rebuilders in-state!!!!!?? cuase i would rather do that then ship my turbo out and all that nonsense!![/quote'] In a short answer NO I Know quite a few local TGP owners and the 2 I know that got theirs done at 2 supposed good shop, were both poor at best, one would not even spin at idle, and after they looked at it, said they fixed it even though it still did the same thing, they said it would break in....someday And the other shop's rebuild only last a year, so go with the proven pros. All mine that were upgraded and rebuilt (4 total at this point) were sent out!! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 What did they do to it that made it upgraded?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 What did they do to it that made it upgraded?!? Off topic for where he is going for now ........quickly though, T3 Super 60 wheel and other parts/work, for my test-bed TGPs and TSTE. Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted August 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2005 hey jeff, have you ever heard of diesel components, they are located in burnsville??? http://www.dieselcomponentsinc.com im gonna try them for my rebuild....unless you or any mn people have heard bad things.......but i got this source from the people who would have the most experience in needing rebuilds.....elite auto-sport in minneapolis....they are very reputable tuner shop...and they refered me to them.....so im assuming they have first hand knowledge of their quality! and they have some amazing cars sitting down there!! they were working on a 1000hp turbo'ed nsx! ps jeff if you want to use my car for a prototype kit......im game cause i need a turbo and i would love to have a new one that pushes more air!!! cuase a rebuild seems like a waste when im just gonna buy the setup ur working on!! also with your kit (350hp 3xxtq) how would you expect a stock tranny to hold up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 11, 2005 Report Share Posted August 11, 2005 hey jeff' date=' have you ever heard of diesel components, they are located in burnsville??? http://www.dieselcomponentsinc.com im gonna try them for my rebuild....unless you or any mn people have heard bad things.......but i got this source from the people who would have the most experience in needing rebuilds.....elite auto-sport in minneapolis....they are very reputable tuner shop...and they refered me to them.....so im assuming they have first hand knowledge of their quality! and they have some amazing cars sitting down there!! they were working on a 1000hp turbo'ed nsx! ps jeff if you want to use my car for a prototype kit......im game cause i need a turbo and i would love to have a new one that pushes more air!!! cuase a rebuild seems like a waste when im just gonna buy the setup ur working on!! also with your kit (350hp 3xxtq) how would you expect a stock tranny to hold up!![/quote'] Well a guy/fellow TGP owners here that worked for me, later went to elite and I just left him a voice mail to ask if that dieselcomponents shop was the one he use on his TGP back a few years ago that would not even spin at idle or when we revved his engine or if it might be a different shop/good one? Also put a call into another local TGP owners who had a rebuild done by someone else and who that was, stay tuned! As for the turbo upgrade, going be a longer than a month before I have the chip done for the turbo upgrade kit I am working on, besides it is also for the heads I have done as well as 30 lb injectors so, not going to be a bolt on less you also do your heads too, later on all this, if I can buy some time I will be testing a stock engine here soon with the larger turbo and injectors, but I never have enough time, only got 4 days left here to (I think I said this before ) get my 2004 taxes done and emails, board postings and PM are sucking up some of that time Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted August 11, 2005 Report Share Posted August 11, 2005 These guys are by far the best in the business that "I know of" and competitive on their pricing. http://www.turboengineering.com/index.html They were going to build me a T28 hybrid for the TGP (before I sold it to Luke) for $600 IIRC. With dual ball bearing cartridge it was a $400 upgrade. They have build spec units for some local guys I know and that was the first time I had seen a turbo just free-wheel when I very lightly blew on the turbine wheel! :shock: Give them a shout and tell them exactly what you want and ask about the T28 hybrid or just a plain rebuild on your T-25. MAKE SURE YOU TELL THEM IT IS NOT A MITSUBISHI T-25 APPLICATION!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted August 11, 2005 Report Share Posted August 11, 2005 www.Cheapturbo.com did mine for $400 with polished compressor and HPC turbine 8) Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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