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Engine swap possibility


Psych0matt

What would be a better option?  

  1. 1. What would be a better option?

    • Stick with a low milage LQ1
    • Make the extra effort for an L67


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So, I'm thinking that if I do have to do a swap, I have two options. One is to find an L67 and try and tackle that, but I'm not sure I have the knowledge or experience to tackle something of that calibur. My other option would be to find another (94-95) LQ1 and do an even swap (and maybe making the extra effort for a 5 speed). The main thing I guess would be how much more work would the L67 be? I know I would have to redo all the wiring and tuning and stuff, but how much more physical work would there be involved. I'm just thinking that I would rather spend the same amount of money for an around 60K L67 than I would for an under 50k LQ1 (If I do this, I don't want an LQ1 with high miles, but an L67 wouldn't bother me to be a little higher) Any thoughts? I don't want this to become an "L67 vs. LQ1" thread, I'm just trying to figure out what would be best. I'm more or less planning ahead until I can actually find out what I did internally to the poor thing. Closest I can think is that the water pump went and I threw a rod or something.

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well, I'm hoping to find an under 50K (if not lower) milage LQ1. A crate one would be nice, but I don't know if i could afford the $1100 or whatever it was :-/ I think a five speed is a must though :twisted:

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not sure yet, I havent been able to get home (parents house in michigan) to tear some things apart. Hmmm, if I had a car to get there :lol: I'm looking into buying a cheap 88-90 z24 for a winter beater/second car (since I really like those and miss my old one anyways)

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No,

 

88-93 is OBD-I

94-95 is OBD-I.5

96+ is OBD-II

 

And for what it's worth, it doesn't matter what OBD your car had stock. You're not using the factory wiring if you're moving to an L67 anyway. The only things you'd have a problem getting to work correctly (or at all) would be things like a HUD or DIC.

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