kcac Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Saw the write-up in the FAQ section on how to pop out a 3.4 DOHC alternator the easy way. Sounds like a great way to go, especially when contrasted with the 1995 Cutlass service manual procedure shown below. My question is about the warning after step 5 below. It relates to the steering gear and lowering the frame. Is this anything I need to care about when replacing the alternator with the 45 minute method? Generator - Revised Service Procedure File in Section: 6 - Engine Bulletin No.: 63-64-07A Date: November, 1996 SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE Subject: Section 6D3 - Revised Generator Service Procedure Models: 1991-96 Chevrolet Lumina 1995-96 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1991-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1991-96 Pontiac Grand Prix with 3.4L DOHC V6 Engine (VIN X - RPO L01) This bulletin is being revised to add warranty information. This bulletin also cancels and supersedes Corporate Bulletin Number 336404. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Numbers 336404 and 636407 (Section 6 - Engine). This bulletin is being issued to revise the previous generator service procedure in Section 6D3 of the Service Manual. The revised procedure deletes the need to remove the drive axle and generator splash shield. Instead, the intermediate steering shaft lower pinch bolt is removed. Then the intermediate shaft is separated from the steering gear. A jacking fixture is installed to support the rear of the frame. The two rear frame bolts are removed and the frame is then lowered no more than 100 mm (4 in.), gaining access to the generator. Refer to the proper vehicle Service Manual and other Service Bulletins for specific sub-component removal, installation and tightening specifications. Procedure Remove or Disconnect 1. Battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal. Refer to Section 6D1 of the Service Manual. 2. Ignition control module with mounting bracket and position forward for clearance on 1996 vehicles. Refer to Engine Controls or Section 6E3 of the Service Manual. 3. Both front wheels. Refer to Section 3E of the Service Manual. 4. Right engine splash shield. Refer to Section 4D of the Service Manual. 5. Intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt and intermediate shaft from steering gear. Refer to Section 3B of the Service Manual. Caution: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering shaft and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury. 6. Raise vehicle and suitably support. Refer to Section 0A of the Service Manual. 7. Install a jacking fixture to support the rear of the frame. 8. Frame rear bolts. Refer to Section 10-3 of the Service Manual. 9. Using the jacking fixture, lower the rear of the frame. NOTICE: Do not lower the frame more than 100 mm (4 in.) or damage to the vehicle's components may result. 10. Generator cooling duct. 11. Electrical connector at generator. 12. Generator "BAT" terminal nut and lead from generator. 13. Accessory drive belt from generator. Refer to Engine Mechanical or Section 6A9A of the Service Manual. 14. Generator rear brace, 15. Power steering gear pipe clip from generator stud (if applicable). Refer to Section 3B of the Service Manual. 16. Generator to engine fasteners. 17. Generator. Install or Connect 1. Generator. 2. Generator to engine fasteners. 3. Generator rear brace. 4. Power steering gear pipe clip to generator stud (if applicable). Refer to Section 3B of the Service Manual. 5. Accessory drive belt to generator. Refer to Engine Mechanical or Section 6A9A of the Service Manual. 6. Generator "BAT" terminal lead and nut to generator. 7. Electrical connector to generator. 8. Generator cooling duct. 9. Using the jacking fixture, raise the frame rear until the frame insulators contact the vehicle body. 10. New frame rear bolts. Refer to Section 10-3 of the Service Manual. 11. Intermediate shaft to steering gear and lower pinch bolt. Refer to Section 3B of the Service Manual. 12. Right engine splash shield. Refer to Section 4D of the Service Manual. 13. Both front wheels. Refer to Section 3E of the Service Manual. 14. Lower the vehicle. 15. Ignition control module with mounting bracket on 1996 vehicles. Refer to Engine Controls or Section 6E3 of the Service Manual. 16. Battery negative cable to the battery negative terminal. Refer to Section 6D1 of the Service Manual. Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use: Labor OperationDescription Labor Time J4100 Generator Assembly - 1.4 hrs Replace Add Diagnosis 0.3 hr Add Locking Wheel 0.1 hr Covers/Nuts (one or all) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 as long as you only lower the passengers side of the cradle you are fine, if you do both sides, you will disconnect the shaft, and its is NOT fun getting that back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Heck yeah, anytime you lower the subframe, you need to remove the pinch bolt and separate the intermediate shaft from the rack. If you don't, you could be in for a lot of grief because the intermediate shaft will come apart, then you have to pull the steering column to fix it. I speak from experience!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcac Posted July 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Now I'm confused. Sounds there is one "yes"; and one"no". Does only lowering the passenger side exempt you from having to disconnect the intermediate shaft? IF not, how much more time does disconnecting the intermediate shaft add to the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 If you only lower the passenger side, you might be able to get away with it. I wouldn't lower it much though... if that intermediate shaft comes apart, you'll add several hours to the job for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCRagtopguy Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 To me that's just another reason to do the repair by popping out the axle shaft. No fucking with subframe bolts or having to worry about tht steering shaft. Whatever you are most comfortable with, I guess. I gotta do the Olds soon and I'll be doing it the other way. Pain in the ass either way, lots of beer required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 I'm glad I have a 94 with the CS-130D, getting to the alt after popping the axle out was no problem at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted July 27, 2005 Report Share Posted July 27, 2005 CS-130D? What is the significance of this alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcac Posted July 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2005 GnatGoSplat Since you have some experience with this, how much work/time is involved with removing the the lower pinch bolt from the intermediate steering shaft? After thinking about it, I may give the directions I attached in my first post a shot. They are an update to the factory manual, replacing the original instructions that directed you removing the drive shaft, so hopefully the second time around GM got the instructions right. I suppose the 45 minute method would be OK since you are only lowering the right side, which would not put any strain on the steering column, but I'd like to avoid disconnecting the tie rod since I don't have a tie rod puller or a pickle fork. Thanks in advance if you've got any ideas on the lower pinch bolt question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 29, 2005 Report Share Posted July 29, 2005 CS-130D is the open-frame type alternator. You can tell it apart from the CS-130 because the 130D has a more rounded-shaped housing and is full of holes. I don't really remember on the pinch bolt. I've removed it several times, I think it might add 10-minutes or so. I think it's easier to get to if you pull the wheel. The hardest part is being able to hold that annoying plastic shield out of the way. I seem to remember it being a bigger pain on the 94 than the 89... or was it vice versa? I can't really remember. I just remember one car was easy, on the other, the annoying plastic/rubber shield kind of fought back making it more difficult to get the wrench on the bolt and also more difficult to get everything aligned when jacking the subframe back up. Probably if you can get by without removing it, I'd try that first. Just don't lower the subframe any more than necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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