Quick question about first gen rear brakes...**UPDATE Pg.2**

[1990lumina]

Alrighty, so through all my searches I'm read that to keep the rear calipers fromn seizing that I should set the parking brake once a week or so.

 

My question is if I set the parking brakes, and the vehicle doesn't roll when it is on an incline and in neutral, then are the rear brakes functioning? Or could they still be seized.

 

Since I don't know anything about brakes :oops: I have to ask.

 

Thanks!

 

- Jeff L.

[Supreme Cutlass]

does it roll with the parking brake OFF?

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

If it doesn't roll with the e-brake OFF then yes they are seized. If they are working properly and not sticking then you should be able to roll, even push the car with ease.

 

With the ebrake ON you should be able to press the gas in gear and the car shouldn't move anywhere.

[1990lumina]

It rolls with the E-brake off.....and it does NOT move with the e-brake on....I dunno about the not moving in gear though, I'll try that tomorrow.

 

Thanks guys!

 

 

My car's going in for some work on Tuesday...something is messed up in the braking system...but it would appear the rear brakes are actually working on my car so there must be something else that needs work.

 

Thanks again

 

- Jeff L.

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

With the e-brake it's just a cable that runs from the foot pump pedal to the brakes themselves, it really has nothing to do with the rest of the brake system.

[Supreme Cutlass]

Hey, what's your problem? maybe we have the same thing wrong...It doesn't appear that your rear calipers are locked. I found that only one of mine was locked up, I took the wheels off to bleed the system, and had someone else push the pedal while I made sure the calipers were gripping.

[1990lumina]

It's a little difficult to explain but here goes:

 

I don't seem to have any braking at all the first half of the pedal. The second half of the pedal to 3/4 of the pedal really doesn't do much at all to stop the vehicle - at least at high speeds. I find myself usually just pushing the pedal damn near to the floor to stop.

 

The thing is, at certain times the pedal will feel really good, and it will have good stopping power at 1/2...and pushing to the floor will lock the brakes.

However, after using the brakes with this power the pedal goes back to how it usually is - 3/4-full to stop.

The pads and rotors were replaced about 5000miles ago. There is no squealing or any sounds coming from the car when braking.

 

I've been thinking something might be wrong with the booster itself...but I'm not sure, and that is why it's going in on Tuesday.

 

I know something isn't correct when I drive my car around all the time, then I'll drive my mom's, or dad's car and the first stop sign I almost put my head through the windshield because I'm used to stomping on the brake pedal to stop.

What's worse is my dad's 3/4ton chassis Suburban stops better then my car.

 

I'd like to learn how to do alot of this shit myself, but my dad has no time to help me, he's got two days off this week (monday, tuesday) and him and I have ALOT of work to do elsewhere on the house, yard, farm...and when he comes home from work he's so tired he doesn't feel like doing anything. So he booked me in at his buddies shop to get my car checked out.

I can just tell something isn't correct, I just don't know what.

 

MY friend's dad said the brakes might need the air bled from the system....and maybe that's all that's wrong. But when I got this car the brakes were fine, and have gotten worse over winter...then in spring they were a little better so I dunno.

 

Thanks for trying to read what I typed above lol, I know it doesn't make since. I'm freaking tired tonight for some reason and I gotta go to work tomorrow :S

[Supreme Cutlass]

I take it you don't have ABS then; the brake light on mine is SUPPOSED to light up when there's uneven perssure (air in the lines). You shouldn't have air in the lines if you haven't done anything to your system. Have you checked for leaking brake fluid?

[1990lumina]

No I don't have ABS. Not that I'd want to do this, but before I could lock the brakes quite easily, now it isn't very easy to do.

 

I haven't seen any "Brake" light. However half the idiot lights on my cluster don't function...I'll check tomrorow before I start it to see if there is a "brake" light turning on....just to make sure the light works.

The brake fluid is full up. However, I don't know if there is fluid leaking by the calipers or anything. If there was, wouldn't that cause the lfuid to be low???

 

Thanks for the replies I gotta work tomrorw so if there are anymore follow up replies I won't get to them till tomorrow afternoon, thanks again !

[Supreme Cutlass]

That would cause it to be low, but frankly I have no idea what would cause such an inconsistant problem in brakes...

[DaveFromColorado]

sounds like you've either got some air in your lines, or a bad hose somewhere that's expanding when you hit the brakes - I'd try flushing your entire brake system, and at the same time inspecting all the lines and hoses.

 

to flush the brake system - crack the bleeder furthest from the master cylinder (right rear) let it drip for a good 10 minutes or until the fluid looks clean (keeping the master cylinder topped off) then on to the left rear, then to the right front, then to the left front, this MAY solve your problem.

 

if you have access to a vacuum bleeder, that will make the whole process take less then 30 minutes rather then the hour or so that it'll take ya the old "gravity" way.

 

--Dave.

[Supreme Cutlass]

About how long would it take if you pumped the pedal?

[DaveFromColorado]

about the same time as if you had a vacuum bleeder, but* you'll need someone to help you, as you'll crack the bleeder, they'll hit the brake, you'll close the bleeder, and they will let off the brake, then you'll crack the bleeder etc. etc. etc.... you get the idea, I was just offering advice on how to do it alone.

 

I don't trust those crappy check valve style "one man bleeder" things, they suck rocks.

 

--Dave.

[Supreme Cutlass]

I bought one of those just for the tubing and acessories, the bottle didn't even have a valve or anything of the fashion to keep air from coming in, I feel sorry for anybody who tries to bleed thier brakes with the POS.

[1990lumina]

I appreciate everyone's input, I looked today, and I don't have any "brake" light that lights up on my cluster when I turn the key to "on" before I start it (in other words I don't think the light works).

 

Either way I appreciate the help and opinions and everything from everyone. I'm still going to take the car in on Tuesday and let a pro look at it. I believe you guys know what you are talking about - I just don't feel comfortable playing around with the brakes. If it would have been something else I would have tried and looked at it myself, however, I don't want to screw anything up with the brakes.

 

I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes Tuesday, and what all is happening.

 

- Jeff L.

[1990lumina]

I took the car in and $40cdn later the problem is fixed . I now have a really nice feeling brake pedal. Nice and high, and alot better braking power.

 

Apparently the problem was the sliders on the rear brakes were very stiff (not seized), but stiff. So they greased it up and it is working beautifully. Hell the guy was very nice. He told me if I want to sell it call him first because he likes the car so much. He test drove it after the fix and said everything is solid in the front end, everything is working beautifully as he put it.

 

So I'm happy . Cheap fix, so I still have money to spend :D:D. I love my W again.

 

- Jeff L.