Kalgorn Posted July 20, 2005 Report Posted July 20, 2005 I thought it was ~100 lbs. = ~.1 sec off 1/4 mile time. Quote
Kalgorn Posted July 20, 2005 Report Posted July 20, 2005 actually I was being serious....having unnecessary rotational weight sucks, those Enkeis are very light for 17s Ahh, nevermind. I thought you were speaking about the stock wheels. :oops: Quote
jeremy Posted July 20, 2005 Report Posted July 20, 2005 Ahh, nevermind. I thought you were speaking about the stock wheels. :oops: Quote
john99gtp Posted July 20, 2005 Report Posted July 20, 2005 heh, i just registered my car it says the weight is 4171lbs :shock: im happy for weighing 300 less when im racing i guess Quote
slick Posted July 20, 2005 Author Report Posted July 20, 2005 Those weights were off. My stupid ass put the scale on the carpet. I have edited the original post to the new corrected weights. Quote
J Posted July 20, 2005 Report Posted July 20, 2005 Those weights were off. My stupid ass put the scale on the carpet. I have edited the original post to the new corrected weights. JACK ASS HILLBILLY!!!! LMFAO Quote
slick Posted July 20, 2005 Author Report Posted July 20, 2005 STFU JAY!! Anyways, incase anyone was wondering, the car battery weighs 34 lbs. Quote
john99gtp Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 STFU JAY!! Anyways, incase anyone was wondering, the car battery weighs 34 lbs. wow they seem heavier Quote
slick Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Posted July 21, 2005 STFU JAY!! Anyways, incase anyone was wondering, the car battery weighs 34 lbs. wow they seem heavier It is because it is such a compacted weight. Quote
slick Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Posted July 21, 2005 Ok, so here are more weights of objects, thanks to Tony(5speedz34): Front Rebar(bumper mount with the honeycomb plastic)- 30 lbs. Rear bench seat back- 12 lbs., rear bench seat butt cushion- 12 lbs. Z34 spoiler(and this probably applies to most spoilers on this message board)- 12 lbs. Fender- 12 lbs. Z34 Front bumper cover- 20 lbs. 2 door interior door panel- 10 lbs. GP console with DIC and power seat controls- 10 lbs. DIC unit itself- 3 lbs. (with this in mind, I am assuming the lumina console weighs ~7lbs.) GP leather bucket power seat WITH the air powered lumbar control- 34 lbs. plain jane front cloth bucket seat- 20 lbs. This is all for now. If anyone has ever had the suspension assembly's apart, or any suspension components, looking for weights of that too. Also looking for weights of a completely stripped unibody(there may only be one or two members that can help on that), subframe, engine(with all accessories), tranny, and anything else that you think can pertain to this thread. I purposely left out the stereo equipment, cluster, hvac controls, and small things like that. Stock, it only weighs in at a few pounds a piece, but aftermarket(such as subs, amps, boxes, etc...) could get you over an additional 100 lbs. The purpose of this thread is for me, and others, to figure out where the major weights of these vehicles are. I want to use this information to figure out what I can modify, but not so radically that it cannot be driven on the street, to make this car lose some weight. Also, when I am done with this, I still hope to have full interior(stock or not, probably the latter of the two ), full body panels, etc.... So if anyone has any other inputs, it is fully welcome. Thanks fellas. Quote
slick Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Posted July 21, 2005 Here's some more info, thank you Patrick(patgizz): 4t60e, dry, no converter- ~~175 lbs. (so we are to assume around the 210 lbs. range wet with converter) Cradle weight- 110 lbs. And, from talking to Patrick, looks like I could weigh most everything else at his place. Quote
GutlessSupreme Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 Do we know of any real sources of lighter material parts? Sure we could strip our cars bare but most of us still want/need it to be driven daily.. I'd really like to do a fiberglass hood and trunklid on the TGP. I doubt this happening but if we could get some things like the front rebar and the subframe made out of a lighter but stronger material we could definetly shed a few pounds off the body. Any steel bracketry for lighter duty stuff (dash brackets, etc) could be remade of alluminum. Don't forget engine stuff too, like a newer, lighter 3100 starter vs. the older 3.1/2.8 version. Quote
mfewtrail Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 The 34mm FE3 front swaybar weighs in at roughly 15-17lbs, I'll weigh the spare one I have to confirm this again along some other stuff while I'm thinking about it. I also plan to put all of my cars fully loaded as they came from the factory on a scale at the sand pit or weigh station here soon. Quote
turby Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 Heater cores add alot of weight Heater cores are aluminum. Maybe 2 lbs. max. Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 GP leather bucket power seat WITH the air powered lumbar control- 34 lbs. there no way an AQ9 ways as much as a battery. Those things have got to be well over 50. (the AQ9's) Quote
slick Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Posted July 21, 2005 GP leather bucket power seat WITH the air powered lumbar control- 34 lbs. there no way an AQ9 ways as much as a battery. Those things have got to be well over 50. (the AQ9's) Yep, it's just the weight is so spread out it doesn't feel like it. Quote
slick Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Posted July 21, 2005 Do we know of any real sources of lighter material parts? Sure we could strip our cars bare but most of us still want/need it to be driven daily.. I'd really like to do a fiberglass hood and trunklid on the TGP. I doubt this happening but if we could get some things like the front rebar and the subframe made out of a lighter but stronger material we could definetly shed a few pounds off the body. Any steel bracketry for lighter duty stuff (dash brackets, etc) could be remade of alluminum. Don't forget engine stuff too, like a newer, lighter 3100 starter vs. the older 3.1/2.8 version. About the only thing that I know that is within most of our price ranges for something that is lighter is fiberglass. Otherwise, if someone wants to blow some money on carbonfiber . Right, and thats what I was thinking as well. When I'm done with this project, it will still be a daily driver, just a little lighter. As for having parts made, it's possible, but either 1)its gonna be expensive as hell, or 2)you have got to get a good friend at a machine shop. As for engine stuff, theres not much that can be done. Starter, yeah, thats one. And removing all of the AC components is another. Otherwise, there really isn't much that can be done up there. You could shed a few pounds if you made your own intake manifolds, but that does take a lot of time, designing, a few bucks, and the place to do it at. Quote
slick Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Posted July 21, 2005 Aluminum is light $$$$ Would get expensive real quick. Our unibody's, they are steel, correct? Quote
z34_nut Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 For the heater core thin, sorry. I know the one that came out of a 96 ranger was at least 20 lbs. Anyway, I work in a machine shop and I am often presented with an oppertunity to make some-thing out of billet aluminum, free to me. We have a GIANT pallet box that contains solid chunks of "junk" aluminum. We either give it away to a company or throw it away. So far I have made Cam hold down tools, Faceplate, and a couple of other various items. Let me just say this though. I will not pick up peices of aluminum for you. I get the meterial for free because it is a perk of working here. Quote
5speedz34 Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 Aluminum is light $$$$ Would get expensive real quick. Our unibody's, they are steel, correct? Yeah, I would assume so. About the starters the difference is huge! I put a 3100 starter on my 3.4 and its a difference of probably 10 pounds. The thing is when I went to the parts store there are about 100 different starters for the 3100 and the lightest I found was for a Malibu. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 Otherwise, if someone wants to blow some money on carbonfiber . I was on some ricer forum once where a few kids actually made their own carbon fiber hoods. They made a giant mold, laid some carbon fiber cloth, poured epoxy, and vacuum bagged it. I think it wasn't that expensive for them because they had access to vacuum bagging equipment. It was kind of a cool idea, I wish I'd bookmarked it. Quote
slick Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Posted July 21, 2005 Otherwise, if someone wants to blow some money on carbonfiber . I was on some ricer forum once where a few kids actually made their own carbon fiber hoods. They made a giant mold, laid some carbon fiber cloth, poured epoxy, and vacuum bagged it. I think it wasn't that expensive for them because they had access to vacuum bagging equipment. It was kind of a cool idea, I wish I'd bookmarked it. Damn shoulda! I know theres been people that have made there own hoods out of fiberglass and some sort of plastic as well. The hard part is making the mold, but If I can get that figured out, well.... Quote
mfewtrail Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 The pre-93 Grand Prix HUD assemblies weigh in at 2.5lbs. I had one laying close by so I just weighed it on my scale here. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted July 21, 2005 Report Posted July 21, 2005 Otherwise, if someone wants to blow some money on carbonfiber . I was on some ricer forum once where a few kids actually made their own carbon fiber hoods. They made a giant mold, laid some carbon fiber cloth, poured epoxy, and vacuum bagged it. I think it wasn't that expensive for them because they had access to vacuum bagging equipment. It was kind of a cool idea, I wish I'd bookmarked it. Damn shoulda! I know theres been people that have made there own hoods out of fiberglass and some sort of plastic as well. The hard part is making the mold, but If I can get that figured out, well.... If I remember right, the guys built a wooden frame for the mold. Then they filled it with something roughly to the shape of the hood and then poured a mold rubber over that and put the hood in it. I think you could possibly use Great Stuff or something to get the rough shape of the hood. Just cut/grind off the high spots. Then pour some silicone rubber mold compound like the stuff you can get from http://www.smooth-on.com, then set the hood in there. I think it would make a pretty good mold. To get the inner framework, you might have to mold the bottom half first. Then when you put the carbon fiber cloth and epoxy in the mold for the top half, set the frame work in there that you already made and roll the cloth over it kind of like how the stock sheetmetal is done. Sounds like a cool, but very big project. I keep searching Google, but I can't remember what keywords I used. :x Quote
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