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My car audio wire Diagram Pic included!! EDIT!!!!


Smoke1991

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EDIT, i redid it, i got another amp for the system, i decided to amp the components and the 6 by 9's. the i modifyed my layout, tell me what u guys think. Also with the cap, i really only want it to work for the sub W amp, the way i have it setup in my diag, wont the cap actually work for both????? or just the sub amp? Also is it fine if i tap into the power wire like how i have in my diag for the 4 chan amp??? thanks guys

 

thanks a lot.

al.jpg

 

audio info:

deck: alpine cda-9827

CAP: 1.5 farad digital

AMP: 1800 watt kenwood class D

AMP: kenwwod 4 ch amp

Subs: MTX 12 inch

Dash speakers: alpine sps-100a 4" (25 watt rms)

Component set for doors: alpine sps-171A (50 watt rms) 6 12" and 1 inch tweeters

Rear 6 by 9's: alpine sps-690A (50 watt rms)

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You need to amplify those components. How many RCA pre-outs does your deck have? Do you have 2 sets of RCA's going to the subs, or is that 1 set? (One white wire and one Red wire, or 2 of each?) If you do have 2 sets, then you should only use one set of pre-outs for any and all subs/sub amps. Use the other set of pre-outs for your full range speakers (in your case, the separates in the doors.)

 

Separates were meant to be amplified, and if that wasn't your plan originally, then you'd have been better off buying a set of 6 1/2" coaxials to be powered off of the HU.

 

Personally, I'd lose the 4" dash speakers, especially seeing as you have a set of nice components in the doors. They're only going to "muddy" the sound up front. You don't want to mix in the "unclean" sound of a set of small dash speakers with the "clean" sound of a set of amplified 6 1/2" separates.

 

If/when you install another amp, upgrade the amp wiring to 4 gauge, and install a distribution block each for the positive and negative hook-ups. Connect the amps to the distro blocks with 8 gauge wire.

 

Sorry for the long-winded speach, but that's my 2 dollars worth :lol: ...

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thanks, but im not looking to buy another amp for the components just yet, thus i want to hook them up to the 2 front channels off of the deck. ive herd the setup befor, and it made me happy. also so what your saying also is to lose the the 4inch dash speakers and amp the components??? if i did lose the dash ones id still wire it up the same way, with no amp. I bought enough car audio crap, now i just gota get it in with the new carpet, and half the crap from the junkyard.

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the honest truth is you are not going to be able to run the components, 4" and 6x9's off of deck power all at the same time. Your deck ony has 4 sets of speaker outputs and you have 6 speakers to connect, something has to be left out. I agree with the above post, if you dont plan on amplifying the comonents you should not have bought them.

 

 

The way I have mine installed is I use my speaker output from my deck to power my 4". But I have them crossed over very high so as to basically make them an additional tweeter. And I use one of my 3 sets of rca preouts on the back of my deck to get the signal to my 4 channel amplifier which then powers my components.

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so i need a 2 channel amp?? hrmmmm damit!!!

 

this deck has 3 preouts, im taking for front, back, and sub

 

so when i wire this up with another amp, which out should i use? should it show it on the back of the deck.

 

there most be a way to wire this up so i dont need another amp. alpine decks can take a beating.

 

i was thinking, Pos from deck to 4" then neg from 4" to positive terminal for the crossover, then neg from crossover back to deck, there are different ways of wireing stuff up. there is a way.

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so i need a 2 channel amp?? hrmmmm damit!!!

 

this deck has 3 preouts, im taking for front, back, and sub

 

so when i wire this up with another amp, which out should i use? should it show it on the back of the deck.

 

there most be a way to wire this up so i dont need another amp. alpine decks can take a beating.

 

i was thinking, Pos from deck to 4" then neg from 4" to positive terminal for the crossover, then neg from crossover back to deck, there are different ways of wireing stuff up. there is a way.

 

I'll take your questions in order. With 3 sets of preouts use the No Fade or Sub preout for your sub amp. As these preout will not be affected by any fading or balance controll you use in you Head Unit.

 

And you cant wire everything up the way you described because it will lower the impedance of the load on the Head unit and will more than likely fry it! They arent designed to run at 2 ohm loads.

 

What I did was, I got a amp of ebay for $100. And I too have 3 sets of preouts on my head unit. SO I use my sub preout for my sub amp, I use the rear preout for the component amp, and I have the 4" running off the front speaker outputs of my deck and because the components are on the rear preouts I can fade front to back to blend my 4" in with my componenets. Making my fronts a three way setup.

 

If you must have your components right away, your gonna have to disconect the 4" and use their outputs for the components.

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Separates were meant to be amplified, and if that wasn't your plan originally, then you'd have been better off buying a set of 6 1/2" coaxials to be powered off of the HU.

 

Personally, I'd lose the 4" dash speakers, especially seeing as you have a set of nice components in the doors. They're only going to "muddy" the sound up front.

 

The seperates will be amplified. With deck power 8) . The low pass sounds are the ones that eat deck power. If you knew that Alpine decks have individual channel x-overs so you can roll off the bass 8) on deck channels at 125 k or so and use it as your amp temporarily :wink: . I run an Alpine 4/3/2 channel now for my Boston seperates now and I still don't run them full range. The dash speakers are oval and that is where you mount your tweeters. Take the 4x6 out and put it face down on a piece of paper. now take a marker and make 4 dots where the bolts go. now take a 1/4 " plate of MDF there and drill 4 holes in it and mount your tweeters under the dash there. The sound is awesome right there in the factory spot reflecting off the windshield for a reason . Lots of sound right in your face at low volume. The engineers designed it this way for a reason.

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bah im going to buy an amp today, probably will get a 4 chann amp, sence the 6 by 9's that i got will drain a lot of power, ill amp them up with the components, then only run my 4 inch dash ones off the deck.

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That sucks that you won't consider putting tweeters in place of those stock dash speaks. It makes your system sound like it cost thousands more, and that is because highs travel in a straight line so it needs help deflecting the sound. the windshield does this for you. Mids and bass can be mounted somewhere else and it dont matter.

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That sucks that you won't consider putting tweeters in place of those stock dash speaks. It makes your system sound like it cost thousands more, and that is because highs travel in a straight line so it needs help deflecting the sound. the windshield does this for you. Mids and bass can be mounted somewhere else and it dont matter.

 

Most component manufacturers recommend not having more than 12" between the mid and the tweeter to obtain a propper front soundstage. You dont want your mids coming from the door and the Highs from the dash, you want it all to blend together so as you cant tell whats coming from where. Alot of peopled will run what called an image enhancement kit. Which is basically a second tweeter which will run off the smae crossover if it has an additional output on it. And that tweeter would be mounted into the top of the dash to bring the height of the front soundstage to eye level.

 

As long as he crosses over the 4" VERY HIGH. They will act like the second set of tweeters.

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you cant even see my Bostons, they have no chance of getting the grill dented. And the interior in a TGP is quite slick looking in stock appearance, would not want ugly black grills to show. factory door speaker enclosures are fiberglassed for sealed enclosures for my boston 4" mids. Quite punchy for a mid. Factory molded plastic door panels are unmolested.

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well im thrown onto the idea now, sence im powering the components, and the 6 by 9's have the same peak and rms rating, i figured id power both.

 

this is the amp im thinking about getting.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5790089837&category=39741&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1

 

its in my price range, and ive had only but a good experience with kenwood amps.

 

i have the 1800 watt class D amp for my subs. a very good unit indeed.

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well im thrown onto the idea now, sence im powering the components, and the 6 by 9's have the same peak and rms rating, i figured id power both.

 

this is the amp im thinking about getting.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5790089837&category=39741&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1

 

its in my price range, and ive had only but a good experience with kenwood amps.

 

i have the 1800 watt class D amp for my subs. a very good unit indeed.

 

Sounds like a plan......Let us know how it turns out. :D

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