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Posted

Ok long story short,

ODB I gives me an error 35, so I replaced the IAC, but I did not reset the ECM after words like you should. Ran fine for 1/2hour. Stalled on 94. Towed it back home, killed the started and replaced that.

Now my car won't start. What gives? I can't get any more codes out of the ECM. I'm had it unplugged(from batt.) for like two days, while I replaced the starter. The battery post is a little iffy but tyhe car cranks just fine with it connected.

My question is, did I fuck the car up by not resseting the ECM after installing the IAC? Or did I fuck up the car when I installed the new starter?

 

I'm just hoping it's not the fuel pump, checked all the relays and fuses and they seem fine, my step dad says it's the ECM, but those things don't die, they last forever(not literally).

 

 

ANybody have a clue?

 

-D

Posted

Bad starter or something installed wrong with the starter would be my guess. Probalby a bunch of seperate problems you're just having at the same time :thumbsdown:

Posted

Unless you arced the battery or something when re connecting the ECM should be fine.

Posted

They last far from forever...

So will it not crank at all??

Did you check the voltage?

Do you get a code 12?

More detaiils, please

Posted

Code 12, does crank, just doesn't turn over, didn't yet check the voltage, but even using the Escort as life support it doesn't seem to want to turn over completly. Now the tach doesn't move, where before it would at least spike for a second into the 2/400 rpm level.

Posted

I would clean the terminal and check your voltage and see what that turns up.

Posted

ok start with the basics

 

you need 3 things to make a engine run

 

fuel

air

spark

 

air unless your filter is cloged up REAL bad, you should have no problem

 

fuel, do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key? check the pressure at the fuel rail

 

spark, get a old spark plug and clip it in a random front spark plug wire, and rest it against metal have someone turn the key and look for spark.

 

check that and we will go from there.

Posted

it could be a few things, it could be the ignition control module, it could be the crank sensor either one of those can give you a no start condition - and either one would keep the fuel pump from running (it'll still prime up on the initial hit of the key, but beyond that it won't run)

 

I'd look into those two items, the Crank sensor is much easier to change, and far cheaper.

 

--Dave.

Posted

Ok so I checked the fuel pump, bleed the system, and it works fine. The air systems is clean and in good condition.

 

Would the crank sensor cause the engine to stall, dumb question i know. When it died on me originally it sputtered and hesitated, I was almost able to save it.

 

I'm going to see if I can check the sensors now.

Posted

Ok so I checked the battery terminals, sprayed and brushed them to no avail. I'm thinking it can either be the crank or throttlebody sensor. I tried getting a spark from a plug but I wasn't able to get anything. I thinking I'm not doing the test right, does anyone know of a good write up, or know how to do it?

 

And maybe did I not put the starter in right? I hooked eve3rything back up like it was before?

 

This is getting annoying. Grrr!

Posted

have the icm tested, if its bad, replace that and the ignition coils at the same time.

Posted

That was my guess too, but his initial problem seems very consistant with a 3.4l DOHC.

 

Goddamn, that is like me asking for complete instructions to do the alternator on my GM V6... :roll:

Posted

he just got a 90' lumina euro, so its most likely a LH0/4t60 or a LH0/125c

 

he says no spark, i'd start with the crank sensor, quite easy to change, just had this same problem in my buddys 88' 2.8 international. bad crank sensor, replaced that and it fired right the heck up.

 

also i've noticed aftermarket crank sensors tend to fail alot. so i'd get a ACD replacement.

Posted

SOrry about not posting a engine, duh, but yeah White93 is right 3.1l 1990 vintage. Will checkers check a ICm or will I have to take it somewhere?

-D

Posted

don't have any checkers out this way, i'd start with the cran sensor since its chepest and easiest to replace, if you can stay away from anyhting that dosen't say "AC Delco" on it. i've seen one too many failed aftermarket crank sensors.

 

if that doesn't do anything, i'd go after the icm, i know alota autoparts stores can test them, but i woulden't put blind faith in that. get a known good one and swap it in.

Posted

Ok so with my stepdad and my Haynes book we went to find saiid crank sensor and could not for the life of use find it, are we dumb? We have the new one ready to go, but can't seem to find the old one to put in it's place, are we dumb? Cause right now I sure as fuck feel like it!

 

-d :bash:

Posted

reach down on the passangers side behind the plenum (upper intake) till ya feel the transmission, theres a 2 wire plug on the transmission and (i think) an 8mm bolt that holds it in. unplug the wire, take the bolt out and gentally but firmly pull the crank sensor up.

Posted

Awesome goodness!!! It works!

It hesitates, but I think the ECM needs to relearn, so I'l let it do that tomorrow. but thanks that stupid $17 parts was all it needed!

-d

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