digitaloutsider Posted July 9, 2005 Report Share Posted July 9, 2005 ==== SEE MY POST BELOW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharged400sbc Posted July 10, 2005 Report Share Posted July 10, 2005 He's gonna have to remove the steering wheel (puller required), remove the steering wheel lock plate (special tool required) and it's snapring then he will have to pull off the turnsignal switch...remove the torx screw holing in the lock cylinder/key and tumblers, since he wont be able to turn the key he may have to break the key in ignition sensor (white plastic that partially covers the torx screw/pin needed to be remove to replace lock cylinder, this will pull out if the key is able to be rotated into the unlock position-if not break it)...Instalation is the reverse of removal....then he should join the army... hope that helps him some.... oh and there's not much chance of saving the old lock cylinder as usually the tumblers are worn out with age and the springs no longer work.. Regards, James Redneck/Gearhead/Mechanic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 10, 2005 Report Share Posted July 10, 2005 Did he make sure the car is in PARK? I forget but I think if you shut it down in drive the key woun't come out.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted July 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2005 Ross: the reply looks like its for when the key is stuck in the ignition Ross: im out in left feild tho on this one. Ross: like when you park the car, and shut it off, you come back and try to start, turning the key to start, and the voltage drops and the car wont start Ross: your supposed to be unable to unlock via turning the wheel, but this does not help. 20:50 Shaun Ewing: okay Shaun Ewing: does the key actually turn? Ross: yes Shaun Ewing: OH ... Ross: well sometimes it makes a screeching noise when I start it. Ross: once in while, usually on these no-start situations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted July 10, 2005 Report Share Posted July 10, 2005 You might also take the shifter cover off, and unhook the shift interlock cable from the shifter assembly. There is an interlock cable that runs from the shifter to the lock cylinder to keep you from removing the key in gear, and also keep you from shifting without the key in the ignition. This happened to me last month, so it is what I suggest first. With mine I couldn't get the key out with the shifter in park because the mechanism in the shifter was bent and not sliding the cable far enough forward to disengage the lock cylinder. The console comes out with 5 screws, the steering column will be a pain in the ass, pick your poison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted July 10, 2005 Report Share Posted July 10, 2005 Holy free Holy the thread changed whilste I was typing. From what you describe now it sounds like possibly a neutral safety switch problem, or a bad ignition switch. you might start out with a test light and see where you lose power. Note: When the Nuetral Safety switch went bad in my G/F's Cavalier (TH125) It wouldn't click or anything when trying to start, but when I held the key to crank, and shifted the car through all of the gears, I could get it to start at some point along the shifting motion, it would even start in gear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted July 10, 2005 Report Share Posted July 10, 2005 Here's a good spot for sTeVeZaSyChO's favorite emoticon: WILLY NILLY! Just wanted to add to what Bossman said and say that the battery cables could be shot. It's probably a safe bet that the cables on RossPetty's 13 year old car are original, and after all of those years of heating up/cooling down, they've become incapable of transmitting the amperage required to spin the starter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveFromColorado Posted July 10, 2005 Report Share Posted July 10, 2005 or the starter itself is shot, and it's only showing the symptoms when it's heated up, it would really depend on how much current is being drawn when the key is turned - but I'll assume* it's probably the starter right now. --Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 <----guessing it is the starter gone bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 Ross: shifting through the gears while turning the key starts the car, and I would like to know where to go with this next, ie whats wrong and how so i fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 Ross: shifting through the gears while turning the key starts the car, and I would like to know where to go with this next, ie whats wrong and how so i fix it certainly not the starter if that is the case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveFromColorado Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 sounds like the Park-Neutral switch, it's located on the top of the transmission, just about any chiltons/haynes manual can direct ya on how to fix it. --Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 to change that i think you need a 15mm, and a 13mm sockets with small extentions, one harnas to unplug, pulling the airbox will be essential to getting the room to replace that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 <---------Was right on his second guess! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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