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Is this REALLY a way to LOWER a W-Body??


gmrulz4u

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Check it...

 

monoleaf.jpg

 

This is what that guy, that some of you will remember with the red hair and red Cutlass, sent to me stating that this is a way to lower a W-Body without using Coil Overs...

 

Is this even possible?

 

THANKS:)

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UH i wouldn't try it, let some other jack ass try to fuck up his car first. I think it would just fuck with the ride and have less of the mono leaf to support the car, seeing how it'd "go up" less of it would be in contace with the plate it sits on, right? If your really up on lowering your w-body hit up Michael over at http://www.fastfwdperformance.com and order his coilovers, i did and i am a broke ass college student, BTW i love them.

 

-JAY-

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To me, that woudl really hurt the ride. If the monoleaf went up like that, those arms would also be straighter(sp) out. So less play. Is that how our suspension looks? I didnt think the arms went like that.

 

Ok, im looking at the new Haynes manual right now at the underside of a w-body. if the monoleaf went up, those arms would actuall somewhat down, or pull on the tires. The leaf is much more inside those bars than his pic shows.

 

Jon

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from what i have seen of many lowerd suspensions, there is less play anyways do to the lowered right hight and more compressed springs, tighter leaf springs, etc....

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i think so becuase i remember reading some guy who said he was pissed off at RSM saying they were a bunch of shit and they gave him the instructions and told him to maintain dignity and respect or something like that and he was really pissed off...i think it was on these boars or the EFI or GMF boards were he said how to lower the wbody platform. From the looks of it i think this was it. Any moderators remember of such thread either here or in the other 2 wbody boards??

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I would try the upside down helper spring b/f I would try that but do it the right way and buy the coil overs(cost to much for me,so I thats why I don't have them :lol: )

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Yeah, reverse spring helper is the only way you can lower the leaf without hacking up the spring perch.

 

I have the money for coilovers, I'm just not convinced yet that it's safe for the car. Modifying the spring perch or using leaf spring helpers in reverse won't cause any permanent damage like coilovers would if the strut towers weren't designed to withstand the stress.

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are we forgeting that someone already posted the RSM instructions here and/or at GMF or clubp forums earlier? DO A SEARCH, was posted around Aug-Sept 02 IIRC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Shawn, this is what that guy sent me today regarding my questions as to the safety of using coilovers with W-Bodies...

 

Well, we(the W-body drivers) are little bit more

patient and carefull about things,unlike crazy little

ricers that would do anything to make their cars cool

and just like you now, we do some research about

future mods. I also did my homework before spending

$385 for only 2 coilovers(the set of 4 that I got for

the helper springs for Honda was $225 at the time)

and looked at the structure of my car and how the

weight is distributed. As you may know Chevy Lumina

and Monte Carlo have coil springs on the rear and

those were the cars I looked to compare,as far as

structure goes. One of my neighbors had one and the

wheel wels weren't any different than mine-same shape

and wall thickness(when looking at them of course,I

couldn't drill his car to check it). If you knock on

them you will hear that "thick metal" sound, same as

the front ones. I don't just want to prove to you that

I am right of something like that-it is the experience

that I gained dealing with these cars for 5 years. My

rear suspension is really stiff now,it only travels

about 2 inches when I step inside the trunk and jump

up and down to shake it. Also the tires are inflated

to 45psi,which makes them hard as a rock. And

sometimes I drive fast with 4-5 people in the car

which puts the wheel wels to extreme load. And so far

they are as strong as the front ones.I am talking

about maybe 30-40k miles on them. I dont see why

someone should try to write misleading info on product

they never used.Maybe because they can never fork out

the money to buy it?Couldn't tell you.About alignment-

if you change the struts you can adjust the camber

cause the new struts have the bottom hole made for

adjustment,I personaly have them on maximum camber(I

didn't measure it, maybe 1.5 degrees) and my rear end

feels like racecar( I used to race in europe,not just

talking my mouth of). I hope I am helping you,don't

take it as just proving my point, like I said-there is

other ways to lower the car. What do you think about

the front? Try my way if you have place that you can

do it for free-all you need is torch,air gun and

jackstands-carefull when removing the spring first

time,they tend to fly when you loosen the nut on

top(just tie it up to a cat that you hate and say bye

:)

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are we forgeting that someone already posted the RSM instructions here and/or at GMF or clubp forums earlier? DO A SEARCH, was posted around Aug-Sept 02 IIRC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ummm...what the hell are you talking about? Does the original post say anything about whether or not the picture is related in anyway to RSM??

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are we forgeting that someone already posted the RSM instructions here and/or at GMF or clubp forums earlier? DO A SEARCH, was posted around Aug-Sept 02 IIRC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ummm...what the hell are you talking about? Does the original post say anything about whether or not the picture is related in anyway to RSM??

 

it doesn't say the picture you posted is related, but gives instructions on how RSM tells you to hack up the spring or whatever, I have no clue if the post was edited due to the agreement you have to sign from RSM that you will not give away their "method" or whatnot. I tried searching for the post, but did not really search hard, there are about 200 threads that have something about lowering or similar stuff :lol: maybe someone else remembers it?

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Oh...it just that it sounded like you were complaining about me posting about this issue, when in reality, it has nothing to do with RSM...I don't even know or care what RSM is or sells...it just happens that other posters started to make a connection between the two...the pic was sent to me by one of my e-mail buddies that has a Cutlass Supreme...

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Shawn, this is what that guy sent me today regarding my questions as to the safety of using coilovers with W-Bodies...

*big snip*

 

:lol: That guy's a riot!

For one thing, he judges sheetmetal thickness by looking at its surface. Real accurate there! And he's sure it's structurally sound because he knocks on it and he hears a "thick metal" sound. Uh huh. I sure hope the people that inspect jumbo jets don't knock on the wings and say, "yep, sounds good, it has a 'thick metal' sound. I'm pretty sure we won't be seeing metal fatigue on this baby!" Maybe that's why the space shuttle Columbia crashed - inspection consists of knocking on various parts and saying, "yep, sounds good!" :rolleyes:

 

BTW, my friend had a 95 Monte Z34 and I even took pics of the inside of his wheel wells. They're not the same, they're not even shaped the same. There's also a kind of structure welded onto the top of them. Shape by itself could make quite a bit of difference. Take a piece of flat sheetmetal and you can bend it vertically with much less effort than a piece that is curved horizontally. The more curvature, the stiffer it is.

 

I'm not saying definitively that our strut towers wouldn't hold up, but I'm not going to believe some 20-something year old schmuck with a hood spoiler and bright red dyed hair, just because he looked at it and knocked on it and heard a "thick metal" sound!!! I'll only believe it if rear wheel alignment doesn't change over a period of considerable time and mileage. That would be a much better indicator that the strut towers showed no deformation. That, or a seasoned engineer from GM comes out and says they were designed to take the abuse.

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Shawn, this is what that guy sent me today regarding my questions as to the safety of using coilovers with W-Bodies...

*big snip*

 

:lol: That guy's a riot!

For one thing, he judges sheetmetal thickness by looking at its surface. Real accurate there! And he's sure it's structurally sound because he knocks on it and he hears a "thick metal" sound. Uh huh. I sure hope the people that inspect jumbo jets don't knock on the wings and say, "yep, sounds good, it has a 'thick metal' sound. I'm pretty sure we won't be seeing metal fatigue on this baby!" Maybe that's why the space shuttle Columbia crashed - inspection consists of knocking on various parts and saying, "yep, sounds good!" :rolleyes:

 

BTW, my friend had a 95 Monte Z34 and I even took pics of the inside of his wheel wells. They're not the same, they're not even shaped the same. There's also a kind of structure welded onto the top of them. Shape by itself could make quite a bit of difference. Take a piece of flat sheetmetal and you can bend it vertically with much less effort than a piece that is curved horizontally. The more curvature, the stiffer it is.

 

I'm not saying definitively that our strut towers wouldn't hold up, but I'm not going to believe some 20-something year old schmuck with a hood spoiler and bright red dyed hair, just because he looked at it and knocked on it and heard a "thick metal" sound!!! I'll only believe it if rear wheel alignment doesn't change over a period of considerable time and mileage. That would be a much better indicator that the strut towers showed no deformation. That, or a seasoned engineer from GM comes out and says they were designed to take the abuse.

 

lmao :lol:

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