134a and retrofit (jumping compressor?)

[R Dubya]

I am not able to charge my system by myself without a pump, as the compressor has to be running in order to accept the 134a. Anyone know the proper way to make the compressor run so it will accept?

 

Also, just to confirm, is low side the pipe below the turbo, kind of directly under the high side, conveniently right next to the tranny cradle?

[Pontiac6KSTEAWD]

This is coming from a experienced person on this subject as I am doing this right now myself. Yes the lowside/fill fitting is right under the turbo. According to the ALLDATA book, you need to remove the turbo to properly fill the system. I dont know if this is true yet, as I am still in the process of doing it. However, you do not need to jump the terminals on the compressor to get the system to run so it will accept a charge. If the system is vacumed down properly, all you have to do is start your motor, and have the AC system on MAX and COLD. Once the system sees enuf refrigerant in the system it will turn on in short looping cycles until there is enuf freon in there for it to run constant. If you do jump the terminals on the AC compressor while there is not enuf freon, you will likely end up destroying some internal componets. Also, befor you waste any money on converting the system, REPLACE the orifice tube and the dryer tank. If you convert your system without doing this, your AC will be quite inefficient, and will run the risk of actually overheating the motor. How you ask? if the orifice is slightly clogged, the hot freon in the condensor isnt moving as fast as it needs to to provide proper cooling for the entire assembly, thereby posibly overheating the coolant, and your motor. Also, when you convert your AC, buy yourself on flush kit, and follow the directions to the letter. This will remove all the old oil and refrigerant that might be remaining in any part of the AC system and make your filling of the system complete with only NEW oil and R-134A. Hope this helps, good luck..

[R Dubya]

Thanks for the reply. I was wondering the same thing about the turbo removal as I was having a difficult time getting the nozzle on to charge it. I think I may have damaged the pipes valve by putting the replacement valve on too tight. I will be looking into that somtime soon anyway.I bought a conversion kit and planned on having it vacuumed, but I know nothing about A/C systems as you can tell. If I order the stock replacment drier and tube will they suffice? Is it totally necessary to change all o-rings and seals?

 

But as far as charging goes, how are you expected to run the compressor without the turbo? Do I need a machine to push on the low side while another opens the high? I had my Blazer charged last month and they used both lines. You know what would be nice, if when I got a new drier, the low side valve was on it instead of that pipe. I will look into that.

[Pontiac6KSTEAWD]

you know thats not a bad idea, I know the 88 buick skylark with the 3.0 had the low side on the drier. I wonder if I could do that and make things easier. Will have to check with my AC guy (who still charges AC systems with R12)

[R Dubya]

yeah I'm working at a dealership these days so I have plenty of access to parts and the freon, but r-12 is something like $60 a lb cost! I can get 134a for around $7. So I figured a changeover was necessary, especially since I don't know if it leaks as I never ran it before I removed the compressor. When I cracked the line, it burst quickly and then stopped. I haven't played with it since. Let me know if that dryer will thread onto the lines.