First time THIS has happened...UPDATE!

[gmrulz4u]

I've owned my 89 Cutty for over 5 years now and I've had the brake components replaced multiple times, but every time it was more of a grinding or noise issue, but not now.

 

Now, just today, I noticed that my brakes seemed "airy". And when I was at a stop, it seemed to need a LOT more pressure to stay completely still at a stop light. A few minutes ago I just went on my lunch break for like a 5 minute drive and noticed it's gotten a lot worse. Now I am affraid to drive it.

 

What happens as I will put my foot on the brake pedeal, it will stop, but then the pedal will start to push in further and further even though I'm hardly putting any pressure on it until it's all the way to the floor. It's never done this before. I hope I can make it home from work without NOT being able to stop!!

 

Just when I pulled back in the parking garage the "BRAKE WARNING" indicator light came on, and it has never come on while driving since I've owned the car! As I understand, this will only light up when the emergency brake is on(obviously not), the fluid level is low or the accumulator pressure is below 1800 psi.

 

So on my next break I will go down and check the fluid, I am HOPING it just needs to be filled, but at this point I have no idea.

 

What else could it be and how much of a headache am I looking at here? I am new to this part of the car...as it HAD been trouble free before.

 

THANKS!

[Supreme Cutlass]

A brake pedal going all the way to the floor is usually the sign of a bad master cylinder. You'll have to replace/repair it...sry

[jeremy]

any brake fluid under the car? sounds like when I tore a brake line on my Explorer, all the fluid sprayed out the brake light came on and all the predal pressure was gone

[Supreme Cutlass]

If you don't have leaking fluid it is definatley your master cylinder. It sounds like one of the piston seals went, since the problem got gradually worse. Had a line been torn the loss probably wouldn't have been gradual, depending on the extent of the damage. Check your master cylinder fluid level, if it's very low you might have a damaged line, if it's normal, it's most likely fluid leaking past the master cylinder piston.

[gmrulz4u]

And just how hard is it to replace or repair? Also what price am I looking at here?

 

THANKS AGAIN!

[Supreme Cutlass]

http://autorepair.about.com/od/otherodddiyjobs/l/aa092504b.htm

[Supreme Cutlass]

That answer your question?

[gmrulz4u]

Yep...other than the cost of course...

[gmrulz4u]

OK...I just went down and checked the fluid level. First question, how the HELL am I supposed to tell whether it's too low or not!? There's no markings or anything. It's not like with Power Steering Fluid how there's the dip stick attached to the lid. I had a flash light and everything and I couldn't see any markings.

 

It did look really low and almost empty, but I don't want to end-up putting TOO much in. What do I do?

[Supreme Cutlass]

well, on the top part of the resivoir, right below the cap, there should be a little indent. I should be able to send a pic about late tonight that'll show you how to read it. Do you have the "powermaster III" system?

[gmrulz4u]

Ummm...I don't think so...I don't have ABS...and I thought that PowerMaster III was just for ABS cars...

[Supreme Cutlass]

Oh, ok. I was under the impresstion that 88+ cutlass supremes had the powermaster for the coupe and a different system for the sedan. I'll send you that pic tonight.

[jeremy]

most resevoirs have a "min" and a "max" line on the side....

[gmrulz4u]

OK, so, after work, I fill the resevoir. The BRAKE WARNING lamp was still ON for the first 10 minutes or so of driving, but then went out.

 

Then, after I got home, about 2 hours later I left to pick someone up that was about a half our away. The first 5 minutes of driving were VERY BAD! I had to press ALL the way to the floor to stay stopped!!

 

But, then, after driving, and driving, and driving...it got WAY better! So much better that when I finally got back home after driving for about an hour, the brakes were acting perfect, just as good as before.

 

So how can it be that driving helps them before stiff, and better? I was thinking maybe it is vacuum related, and the reason it's so bad at first is because it takes a while to BUILD UP the necessary vacuum. Does that make sense??

 

What should I be looking at now?

 

THANKS AGAIN!

[Prospeeder]

air in the system? hitting the air, no fluid, then going all no brakes, then hitting the fluid, and having brakes, just a thought, but some1 more knowlagble will come in

[Supreme Cutlass]

It shouldn't take long at all to get a vacuum. If you turn your car off, then pump your brakes a few times, that's what it feels like with no vacuum assist. If there wasn't a strong vacuum, that wouldn't cause your pedal to fall to the floor. Besides, without the vacuum assist it feels hard as a rock, not like a lack of pressure.

What do you mean by "So how can it be that driving helps them before stiff, and better?"

[DOHCRagtopguy]

Dude, it's definitely your master cylinder going. The seals inside are leaking and you may not even be losing any fluid. I would advise you to change it ASAP before your brakes totally go out on you and you crash into something.

[Supreme Cutlass]

Amen to that. Just get it fixed now so you won't regret it later.

[gmrulz4u]

Another update...I wake up this morning and everything is fine!? So I guess I have a leak somewhere...maybe in a line or possible the Master Cylinder.

 

Is there any way to actually check where the leak is by myself without and special tools or whatever?

[Supreme Cutlass]

Sit in the garage/driveway and pump your brakes. Mark where your wheels are so you can measure where the leak is.