Shorting out ECM/fuel pump fuse

[joey b]

Of course I know the typical rounte. Follow the wires till you find it. But, has this happened to anyone else? Anybody have any ideas as to where to look first? What are the chances that the fuel pump is requiring excess load and will have to be replaced?

[Guest TurboSedan]

what are the symptoms?

 

i would check the wires with a multi-meter and make sure you have 12V+ to the fuel pump when you:

 

- prime the fuel pump. it should turn on 1-2 seconds when turning the key to the 'ON' posistion.

 

- should have a constant 12V when cranking the engine.

 

if it still doesn't start and you have no pressure on the fuel rail, i would replace both filters and/or fuel pump.

[joey b]

The fuel pump turns on when I turn the key. I can start the car. After about 2 seconds of running the fuse burns out= no fuel pressure cause the fuel pump doesn't have power.

[joey b]

Just got more interesting. If I pull the fusable link (I think that's it- the large black fuse sort of thing) The car WILL run. If I press the gas it will stall and not start back up. If I leave that large black fuse installed the car will start but the ECM/Fuel pump fuse will blow and the car then stalls. I am completely confused now. I'm not sure as to why it was blowing the fuse with the large black fuse and does not with it out. With it out it sends a code 54 for the fuse relay (no surprise of course--it's not there)

[joey b]

Tested the wires going to the relay. The orange is hot at all times. The green/white is hot for 2 seconds on initiation of the ignition power. By ground wire is grounding. The red is used for priming of the fuel pump. That has a good connection.

 

Is there any way to test just the fusible link?