blackbombshell95 Posted June 18, 2005 Report Share Posted June 18, 2005 From what I've read in the past, these things bolt up. But what all modificaitions do i have to do to make them work. 1. Custom Down pipe??? 2. Block O2 sensor? Is that the only modification they need?? And how many known people have done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2005 ttt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted June 20, 2005 Report Share Posted June 20, 2005 I'd like to know about this myself... :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terryk2003 Posted June 20, 2005 Report Share Posted June 20, 2005 i don't think the rear will fit in a w-body....not 100% about that though...try searching over on mymonte.com ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2005 after you find something let me know. I'm doing research over at 60deg as well in pushrod performance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted June 20, 2005 Report Share Posted June 20, 2005 i know they dont fit in N-Body 3100's, theres some clearence issues, and the O2 sensor wire is not long enough, and u would ned to make a new hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted June 20, 2005 Report Share Posted June 20, 2005 Rear manifold won't clear. It will hit the firewall. Custom downpipe as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2005 So what kind of modification will it take to make the rear manifold to work? After all the working of the pipes, will they still work efficiently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted June 20, 2005 Report Share Posted June 20, 2005 Mainly, it's just reworking the pipes to get them to fit. As long as the primaries are all still the same length, sure, they will still be effective, very effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manitcor Posted June 20, 2005 Report Share Posted June 20, 2005 I know S&S headers will work, TOGs are much shorter so you should be able to make them work as well. You will most likely end up cutting the rear flange off and welding your custom DP directly to the rear header. Done correctly your clearance will be VERY tight. However they will fit without modification to the engine bay (thank the 60 degree engine for that on the 90s you have to mod the firewall). When I shift into reverse the headers will vibrate aginst the firewall. Other than that they have no problems at all and make no nosie other than making the exhaust sound mean as hell in forward gears. I would go for the S&S personally because with the longer primaries you have less chance of your weld braking for your downpope. As a matter of fact you dont need a downpipe with the S&S headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 Yes. You were the guy I was looking for!!!! Which transmission do you have though??? I'm a bit worried about that. So I'm guessing your engine bay is identical to my GP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manitcor Posted June 21, 2005 Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 4t60-e just like yours you will clear the trans fine, the piping will run very close to the power steering rack. Thus far I have had no problem with anything getting to hot. One thing you will come up against is gaskets. Do not try to cut your own paper gaskets. Either go with custom made gaskets or modify a set of stock manifold gaskgets. Get a cheap stubby 13mm box wrench and cut the round end off then cut the box end off and re-weld it at a 30-40 degree angle. This will make getting to the harder to access bolts in the front and rear much easier. You can use the pretty bolts that come with the headers on the front no problem, I reccomend keeping the old style studs with nuts on the rear. Be sure to use blue locktite on both the studs and the bolts. Done right this install will take the better part of a day. The next mod you should look at after this is moving to ODBII with larger injectors and getting a DHP tuned to fully take advantage of your headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 ur best time is a 15.9 with a 3400 engine. how many times have you been to the track?? what was your 60ft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manitcor Posted June 21, 2005 Report Share Posted June 21, 2005 I dont go to the track very often at all, my best time and pretty much last time I ran was over a year and a half ago. I had just had the headers installed had some vac leaks and the rear header was leaking badly. I can tell you that with a 95 ODBI PCM/Smaller Injectors you wont really get as much out of the headers as you should. I am in the process of getting the ODBII upgrade done with a DHP tune and the larger 3400 injectors (Im still running a 3100 stock 95 tune with 3100 injectors on Headers, some porting and my other mods :shock: ). Also to be honest I am a shit ass track driver. Im farily certain the car is faster, what time or HP Im not sure. I do know that I hang with and pull away from most stock 3800s in the top end of the range though they will get me a bit on the low end. Even though they are lighter by a good 300-500lbs I normally mop the floor with GrandAM GTs. Of course thats on the street. The car barks the tires nicely into 2nd gear even now with new rubber. Im sorry I dont have more current numbers and no dyno, anyone who knows me knows I travel ALOT so its a freaking mircale I have done what I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2005 Man i hope those headers fit like you say. cause i just ordered them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2005 You got an Intense LSD????? for a 4t60e?? what other mods do you have other than what are in your sig? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manitcor Posted June 22, 2005 Report Share Posted June 22, 2005 You got an Intense LSD????? for a 4t60e?? what other mods do you have other than what are in your sig? Yes the headers will fit as long as you got the S&S, TOGs SHOULD fit but Ive never done it. If you want Ill take some pics of the S&S in my car, so you know its for real. The LSD I had made back duering the GEN1 LSDs. I went to a mod day and Big Jeff put one together for me custom. If I watned to upgrade it I would have to goto enginnered performance to get a spring loaded model as Intense does not make LSDs for the t60 any longer. Other than the listed mods not much, some mild porting/polishing on the heads and lower intake and a 7 angle valve job. A home-made fenderwell intake (made from an old turbo kit I had on the car), thats about it off the top of my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2005 I ordered the ssheaders yesterday. they are backed up by 10 days before shipment will go out. I believe that you that the headers were a bolt on. I would like to see a pic just to see how they look. If you could do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manitcor Posted June 22, 2005 Report Share Posted June 22, 2005 I ordered the ssheaders yesterday. they are backed up by 10 days before shipment will go out. I believe that you that the headers were a bolt on. I would like to see a pic just to see how they look. If you could do that. Will do, I did forget to tell you one thing, if you have that big ass cast iron bracket (holds the AC compressor and goes up the block) that goes to the dog bone in the front on the pass side. You will need to modify that a bit to clear the primary coming from that end. Its not too hard though I did it with a die grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2005 Did you have clearance problems with the firewall? I wonder if the 3400 is taller or shorter than the 3100. I mean i'm wondering if their might be a small difference between the 3100 and 3400 that would cause me more clearance issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manitcor Posted June 23, 2005 Report Share Posted June 23, 2005 none at all, the blocks are identical as far as size and dimensions, the differences between the 3100 and the 3400 are purely bore and breathability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2005 You've been the biggest help. But just for the record, Did you modify the rear to fit the firewall. IIRC u said that i Might have to? And when u get a chance to take pictures of your headers, can you try to get a pic of the front, side, and by the firewall pls. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manitcor Posted June 23, 2005 Report Share Posted June 23, 2005 You've been the biggest help. But just for the record, Did you modify the rear to fit the firewall. IIRC u said that i Might have to? And when u get a chance to take pictures of your headers, can you try to get a pic of the front, side, and by the firewall pls. Thanks. Yeah sorry about that, forgot to do it last night. No modification to the rear firewall is neccassary. You will need to modify the rear header though. The flange at the bottom where the headers meet the exhaust system will need to be cut off before tying to install the rear header. Make sure you go to a good exhaust shop or you know a badass welder to hook the headers to the exhaust as the weld is diffcult to do due to clearance. Remeber the rear header goes in from the top. Line it up on the studs as best as possible then then put the nuts on and draw the header up a bit once you have all the nuts on 3 turns or so start on the front header, get it lined up and the bolts just started but make sure everything is loose enough to give you some play. Then putthe doughnut in and connect the rear header to the front get the bolts started on the flange connected to the headers. After that work your way around the engine a few turns on each bolt first the rear then the front then the flange. This process will take a couple hours but its the best way to ensure things line up as best as possible. Remove your alternator, take your PS pump off and move it out of the way too. This will give you alot more room to work on the rear header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbombshell95 Posted June 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2005 thanks. did u order the cat from SS too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manitcor Posted June 23, 2005 Report Share Posted June 23, 2005 no its pretty much a complete rip off the exhaust shop you go to have them put a cat on for you and also a piece of flexpipe between the headers and the cat. You will need the flex to prevent from snapping the welds and absorbing some vibration when the engine shakes. I would also higly reccomend upgraded bushings on your dogbones to reduce engine shake as much as possible. After the system breaks in you may notice a slight exhaust smell inside the car for 10 seconds or so after you take the car for a good WOT run. It has always cleared out for me before long. I personally kinda like the smell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.