Jump to content

r-12 to r-134 conversion


Recommended Posts

Posted

got a question on the subject, do you totally replace the ac system, and is it a pain? ......a pain, what am i thinking its a w-body, so it has to be a pain! :lol:

Posted

you don't have to replace the whole AC system...what you need to do is have all the R-12 evacuated...then you get a conversion kit (they sell em @ wal-mart)...its basically got new fittings so you can use the R-134a hoses...then they give you 2 cans of refrigerant...just charge it back up...

Posted

Simple job...

Get system checked for leaks

and evacuate the r-12.

Follow directions for the R-134 conversion.

 

Did mine last year...

Posted

Just wanted to add that the "Retrofit" kit also includes a can of Ester Oil to add to the system first so the R12's oil will cooperate with the 134a (or something like that :lol: .)

 

Best thing to do would be to pull a vacuum on your entire system (if you know someone who has a vac pump.) That makes it easier to add the new oil and refrigerant, not to mention it pulls out any moisture that might be in the system...

Posted

over at napa, we have shitloads of this stuff. Sells for roughly $30.00 I believe

Posted

Don't get any kit that has stop leak in it, that will clog up the system.

 

If you don't want to get a kit, basically all you need are R-134A fittings, about 3 cans of R-134A, a low pressure hose with can tap, and a 2oz can of Ester oil.

 

You shouldn't need to vacuum the system since you aren't going to be opening it up and letting air in.

Posted
with the price of r-12 today it's well worth the money.

 

And that is if you can even find a place that will sell R12. A complete evecuation, conversion, and recharge at an a/c specialist will cost you around 150-200 dollars. Much cheaper to DIY. Make sure you get it checked for leaks first though, or you will be wasting your time.

Posted

I believe you need a licence to purchase R12 we still have R12 at the dealership it's like 75.00 a can

Posted

How exactly do you go about evacuating the R-12? Would you need to go to a shop to have this done?

Posted
How exactly do you go about evacuating the R-12? Would you need to go to a shop to have this done?

 

To do it legally, yes. The illegal way is venting it into the atmosphere. Whichever way you do it, do it from the low side.

 

I wouldn't use anything but genuine R-134A. If you don't get icy cold air with R-134A, you can try changing the orifice valve and the compressor control valve. Those 2 things should give you icy cold air.

Posted

Freeze-12 isn't a knock off. It's actually a good product. I've seen it used in a couple of cars. Nice cold air.

Posted

If you look hard enough, and know certain people you can still get R12... :leaving:

Posted
Freeze-12 isn't a knock off. It's actually a good product. I've seen it used in a couple of cars. Nice cold air.

 

I wouldn't bother. Just do a search on http://www.autoacforums.com where the A/C people hang out.

 

"ANY" refrigerant will work if properly done. however, being a blend, it cannot be topped off, and the system must be evacuated and recharged if low. (refrigerants leak at different rates) And since it's already 80% of R134a, you are only gaining the use of the original mineral oil, and the R142b leaks out first, so you can fry your compressor if the system is leaking..Just my opinion. Use either R12 or R134a after finding and fixingf the leaks (if any) and do it right , and you'll do it once..Hope this helps..

 

Why would you want to put in a contaminated refrigerant? And that is exactly what Freeze12 is, R-134a contaminated with R-142B. The purpose of this blend is to stick with the original mineral oil as the R-142B is suppose to carry it, unless it leaks out first, then you are screwed. They left out the important fact that the R-134a component is not compatible with the R-12 dryer elements and if that bag breaks, you totally wrecked your system. Also you are not to use either standard R-12 or R-134a fittings for your service port, they are suppose to be Freeze12 service ports, if you can find them, and if you do, then you need the mates for your charging and vacuuming equipment.

 

Did the Freeze12 versus R-12 P-T curves impress you? Then you should equally be impressed by looking at the R-134a versus R-12 pressure curves because they are about the same. I wouldn't fool with a contaminated refrigerant in my car.

 

Personally, I would stick to R-12 or R-134A... and due to the cost of R-12, I would personally do an R-134A conversion. You CAN get icy cold air with R-134A.

Posted

nice info! as for the r-12 goes, i think it evacuated long ago :lol:

Posted

If it evacuated a long time ago,You still have to find and fix the cause

of the evacuation(LEAK).

Posted

a leak!? noooooooooooooooooooo!! :P where are the lines/hoses under the hood?

Posted

Freeze 12 works perfectly, mixes with the old oils and puts out nice cold air. Been using it in my car for about three years now.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...