BlueCutSupreme Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 at any given time when i am slowing down lately, my car will shut off while rolling, while turning slowly etc.. I find myself having to put it in park in the middle of the road and cranking it back up, which wouldn't be so bad if only it would crank the first time! It starts fine and turns over and everything, then just dies, i have to give it some gas repeatedly until i can get the thing into drive gear. It did this one day few weeks ago then never did it again until today. After it had been sitting all night in the garage, it cranked and turned over but died (this morning). SO i gave it some gas and i was on my way, didn't shut off at all on my way to school. Now, this afternoon at school, it did it in the parking lot, at a GREEN light! (that's embarassing, luckily no one was behind me)..then as i was yielding to turn into my neighborhood, and once again when i got in my driveway (the distance from my neighborhood entrance to my driveway is about 120-130 yards) so i gently coasted into my driveway, how exciting... i really need some info on what the causes of this random act could be. I'm also the guy with a non working speedometer and odometer...so i'm thinking but hoping it's not computer related. PLEASE HELP MEH! thanks also a little note, my car rides fine, no shaking or anything when in motion or idling so that also confuses me. It does however surge slightly at a very slow speed after cranking it and having to feed it. Quote
GTPwannabe Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 Can't help much with the problem, but an intermittent bit of advice....it cranks and starts in neutral (well at least it SHOULD) could save time and trouble...and in neutral you can crank it while it rolls....if it's rolling and it shuts...don't push the button on the shifter (or don't pull it if it's column shifted) just push it into neutral, and it won't go past into reverse (thereby wrecking the car) and just start it....then back into drive you go. Quote
BlueCutSupreme Posted January 31, 2003 Author Report Posted January 31, 2003 ok thanks for the tip, but hopefully i won't have to use it! lol Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 I'm having the same problem, but only after the car has reached operating temp. It's getting a full tune up this weekend so we'll see if that helps. Quote
Brian P Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 I have had similar problems occur with my car or other people's w-bodies. Things that come to mind are (in order from most to least likely): `Excess carbon in the intake/ Idle air control valve is not operating right due to excess carbon `Vacuum leak especially the vacuum line that goes to the map sensor `Intake manifold gasket leak (symptoms like a vacuum leak) `ECM needs an idle relearn, or ecm could be at fault Does the engine like to rev up and down while coming to a stop? Quote
eclipse5302 Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 Also maybe do a tune-up if it's been a while. Plugs, Wires, PCV, etc. It'll at least help mileage/drivability if it doesn't fix your problem. And you might have a bad coil/module, too. Jason Quote
stlunatics2oo3 Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 i really hate to say this but it is your ignition control module my car did it all the time till i changed it and then it can be your o2 sensor possible things i would check into i changed them in my car and my car runs like a top now other then the damn water pump but tomorrow that stops lol :dammit: Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 Mine likes to idle up and down and eventually stalls if you don't put it in nuetral and give it a little gas. If I shut it off to go in a store and come out and start it, it idles up and the stalls. When I start it cold it idles up to about 1500 rpm's them comes right down. Quote
OldsmoBeast Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 I have had similar problems occur with my car or other people's w-bodies. Things that come to mind are (in order from most to least likely): `Excess carbon in the intake/ Idle air control valve is not operating right due to excess carbon `Vacuum leak especially the vacuum line that goes to the map sensor `Intake manifold gasket leak (symptoms like a vacuum leak) `ECM needs an idle relearn, or ecm could be at fault Does the engine like to rev up and down while coming to a stop? Yeah mine idles up and down too sometimes! frikken cars! :verymad: Quote
Robby1870 Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 yeah, redturbo, that sounds like an vacuum leak to me. I broke the vacuum line on my MAP sensor and it did exactly what you were talkin about. But, the check engine light came, so I ran the code and found the problem. Also, the brake booster, vacuum line will do the same thing, but will not send out a code. At least it didnt on mine. Also, everyone that is having those problems, mine was doing the same stuff and it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor wire was shorting out......just a thought. Yeah the O2 sensor is another good idea and the EGR is a good idea, but they will send out codes. Quote
Brian P Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 The O2 sensor won't send out a code unless it's REALLY bad. The sensor deteriorates over time and mileage, if you have over 125k you should really have it replaced. I replaced mine with 150k and should have done it much earlier, because even though I got no code, the new one fixed a lot of driveability problems as well as bring my fuel economy up. Any vacuum leak will cause the idle up-down when coming to a stop, if it's bad enough it will do it while idling all the time (if the map sensor vacuum line is broken or cracked, it will be much worse however). Ive had a bad IAC cause stalling and funny decel idle too. The IAC should be cleaned once every couple of years (as the rest of the throttle body/intake should as well), most cars don't get this attention. Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 Mine's wierd though. It seems like it's getting worse. (doing it before it warms up all the way.) It will do it a few times then it idles fine. Then it will do it again and so forth. I thought I had a vacuum leak cause the heater won't switch from defrost. But the cruise works. BTW, I just got back from the dealer with a bunch of parts that I'll be putting on tomorrow. Boy did I take one for the team. PCV Valve- $5.75 Fuel Filter- $16.95 Tranny Filter- $32.09 O2 Sensor- $49.95 Air Filter- $8.42 Plug Wires- $44.40 Parts-$157.56 Tax- $9.46 Total- $167.02 Quote
Robby1870 Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 what kind of plug wires did you buy?? My new ones, altough they are nothing special were like $21. And, I figured, after seeing the ones that came off, the new one should perform like high performance ones, b/c I checked the resistance on them and they were all like 40-50K ohms, which is way to high, the new ones were like 20K ohms out of the box. Quote
SEiZe Posted January 31, 2003 Report Posted January 31, 2003 .....O2 Sensor- $49.95.....I wish i only had one O2 sensor. My car has two O2 sensors, and I had to replace both at same time. Quote
Brian P Posted February 1, 2003 Report Posted February 1, 2003 why the hell did you go to the local dealer, when you could have called brasington (http://www.gmotors.com) and gotten all of it without markup! I got the exact same O2 sensor from them for $30 shipped! Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted February 1, 2003 Report Posted February 1, 2003 Cause I don't use credit cards. And I needed the parts now. I have to figure this stalling problem out. Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted February 2, 2003 Report Posted February 2, 2003 Just come back from my uncles garage, (mmmm heat), and it seems that the stalling is gone. (knock on wood!) All I ended up getting done was replace the O2 sensor, replace the fuel filter, and Unplugged the cooling fan and plugged it back into the cars wiring. It was wired into the ignition. I'm going to try and get everything else tomorrow. Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted February 2, 2003 Report Posted February 2, 2003 Good thing I didn't start pulling all the plugs. I just noticed Advance Auto gave me the wrong plugs. These are for my TGP. Also The dealer gave me the wrong air cleaner. What is wrong with people? This is their job, the only thing they have to do is get parts for people. Why do they always give me the wrong ones? :cuss: :dammit: :guns: :gone2far: Quote
Brian P Posted February 2, 2003 Report Posted February 2, 2003 Funny, cause they always mistakenly get TGP plugs for my car! Quote
ctx46 Posted February 4, 2003 Report Posted February 4, 2003 "Funny, cause they always mistakenly get TGP plugs for my car!" thats because you wish your car was a TGP.... lol I had this same problem, and it was my Fuel pressure regulator........ if you can get your hands on a fuel pressure guage, hook it up to the fuel rail via the shrader valve, and then tape the gauge to the windshield....drive the car around and watch the gauge for erratic pressuers, and if you get it to die, if the fuel pressure falls down 10 psi or more of the driving pressure, (40 psi driving pressure, 30 or lower when it dies) its your fuel pressuer regulator.... I do this simple test all the time @ work.... it seems the W-bodys eat these for breakfast...... mainly the 3.4's though, they run higher fuel pressure. hope this will help ya..... Quote
chronic139 Posted February 5, 2003 Report Posted February 5, 2003 Ihad the same problem actually really recently. Turned out to be the ignition control module. But check your fuel pressure first to make sure the regulator and pump are ok. Quote
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