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So um.. there's this really stubborn red boat in my driveway


GutlessSupreme

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That will be taking me to work today 8)

 

That's right. Still have many things to do.. but she's 90% road ready and is getting registered/insured today.

 

Pics to follow tonight, if I can get my stupid charger to work...

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And sure enough.. the fucker didn't want to cooperate.

 

Got home from school... took most of the shit out the interior and trunk, stole the plate bracket from my spare wrecked bumper, threw the plates on, went for a cruise around the neighborhood, and then down and out towards the main road.

 

I can't remember if it started after the first time I really got on it, but it slowly starting stumbling. Progressively got worse and worse until I got halfway back up the street. Tried cranking a few times - no start. Got out, popped the hood just for a quick look.. everything seems fine. I look down, d'oh! forgot the negative battery cable is still kinda just sitting (though fairly snugly) on the top terminal. I never bolted it down. Maybe that was it? I moved it around a bit, heard the normal clicking noises (car was "on" still). Tried cranking again and it started. Closed the hood, back into the car. I hit the gas and it nearly stalled right then and there again. K, don't think it had anything to do with the battery cable. Then sunddenly the RPMs would rise, then stumble over again. And over. It seemed as though once it actually made it to higher RPMs (anyone's guess - tach's way off - maybe 3800) it would run steadyish, but any lower and it would start going under and back up again.

 

Made it back to the driveway. Barely. Start it again.. idle was very poor. RPMs sounded like they were all over the place between 300 and 1000. Did this several times, it would bounce back and forth a bit, then start running just at the exact point before it could possibly stall for about 10 seconds, then die.

 

I haven't really looked at it yet since I worked 4-9. I'll try for tomorrow but it's gonna be a busy day. I'm PRAYING for a vacuum leak, but I checked at least all the lines off the TB and they all seemed plugged in at both ends. I know for sure that two rockers still weren't tightened ALL the way, to the point of the others, probably barely what they were above to start when I threw it back together, but I really hope that didn't cause anything serious. I just can't get a fucking wrench on them for the life of me.. I may be able to hit them from above with the plenum off, but it seems like the LIM will be coming off for the 4th time...

 

Fingers crossed...

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Very well could've. One end was starting to crack...

 

I'm contemplating whether or not I want to go outside now or not. I'm usually pretty loud... without even starting the car.

 

You'd be proud of this bitch though. Despite the cracks and flakes and bent corner.. I completely owned the hood with 3M paint compounds. I haven't even finished and it looks 245x more fantabulos than before.

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If it lost power (which it sounds like it did) then the chip might need to relearn. Go through the idle learn procedure and see if that helps any. It isn't going to hurt.

 

Shawn

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while we're here.. anyone have a good conidition '89-'93 GP turn signal switch w/ radio controls? I'm done fucking with mine and they're like 100 bucks new.. radio controls won't work, nor my horn, nor my turn signals (and yes, I'm 100% the switch is to blame for it all).

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If it lost power (which it sounds like it did) then the chip might need to relearn. Go through the idle learn procedure and see if that helps any. It isn't going to hurt.

 

Shawn

 

Something to try but I'm pretty much positive that isn't it... I've been letting it idle and taking it for really short drives for 2 weeks now and it hasn't pulled this shit until now. If I wake up early enough before school I'll try... can't do it now, not with no muffs..

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the PCV valve tube pop off?

 

Looked fine. All vacuum lines looked fine :(

 

Stills leaves the possiblity for a LIM gasket leak though :( :cry: I'll be able to figure that one out tomorrow when I start it.

 

FUCKIN A

 

Watch.. knowing this car, it'll be fine when I try to start it in the morning, then in another two weeks time it'll do this all over again.

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I have given that a quick thought as well..

 

All 3.1 ECMs are the same right? Just the memcal is different? Or is the turbo one the same as the DOHC's, with the extra RAM?

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Well guys... let's just say my gas gauge is about 1/4 of a tank inaccurate. damned shitty clusters :lol:

 

Greg.. sorry I didn't take your call, I was on the phone with my mom at the moment and couldn't get rid of her, then had to rush out to get ice cream with my girl before Newport Creamery closed :lol: Tomorrow's looking busy but maybe we can meet sometime Sunday (workin 4-9 though).

 

So, has anyone else experienced torque steer with two shot balljoints? :lol:

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You have no idea. (Then again, neither do I).

 

The pump itself is fine. I pulled the C305 connector through the trunk floor and hardwired it to the Cutlass's battery - it ran. There has to be a break somewhere before there. In the fuel pump relay box, the fuse was definetly getting current, and so was 1 prong of the relay (when test lighted with IGN on.). I tried swapping another relay in - no results. Though I also tried grounding the test connector - maybe I just couldn't get a good connection, but the pump definetly didn't turn on then either.

 

I don't particularly understand how relays work, but from my Cutlass's service manual, it looks as though at least two prongs of the relay should be hot with the ignition on - the ECM 20 amp fuse from the pass. side underhood fuse box, and then the other from the fuel pump relay control from the ECM itself.

 

It's definetly shaping up to look like an ECM issue...

 

btw, yes I did check all other fuses in the car, and none were blown.

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ok so like seriously, what the HELL happend to that poor car, man, the previous owner(s) must have abused that thing like hell

 

I would imagine he will get it going with some help, what you got to offer? :lol:

 

As for me....that red wire that is a test connector below the Fuel Pump Relay/ECM fuse area needs to be put onto the Postive Feed Cable that is there, should reach 8) That will run the fuel pump, and it should. Backing up some, first time you turn the ignition to "On' (not started yet) the fuel pump should run/prime the fuel rail, if not then ECM/wiring etc. If the fuel pump runs for a few seconds (this is good) but does not kick back on once the engine starts then its the Oil Pressure Switch (maybe wiring there), the "Switch" part is what then powers the fuel pump based on there being oil pressure in the engine (a good safety switch!!, yes we like you, unless you broke :lol: ). Run your tests this way and report back :)

 

Jeff M

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Oh damn me, I kept thinking I was supposed to ground that connector, not power it.. I think I was thinking of the RKE programmer wire :lol:

 

And the pump definetly isn't running at all when I turn the key "on," and there was no pressure behind the Schradder valve.

 

But you've confirmed my thoughts on the ECM/wiring then.. this may sound odd but with any luck, it's only the ECM. I'm sick of tracking down wiring problems in this car, and maybe a new ECM would fix a handful of other problems as well.

 

Where exactly is the oil pressure switch? doesn't seem to be the problem but I can't recall ever seeing it, maybe I just don't remember though.. is in near the oil cooler/filter?

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