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Pluggin' it...need advice


mewantsa87gnx

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Hey guys, so I am finally able to afford to change my spark plugs. From what I see for the 3.4 the Rapidfire #8's are the choice of plug. Now I need to decide if I should do it myself or delegate it to my friendly neighborhood mechanic. How hard is it to change the back spark plugs on the 3.4, from what I see I will not be able to easily do it without either a) taking the plenum off and proceeding that way or B) taking the motor mounts off and rotating the engine forward. Correct me if I am wrong of course. Which is the preferred (read "easiest") way to change them, choice A or choice B?

 

Also I may have a case of the cocked spark plug. A month or so back I came to find out that one of my sparkplugs is hard to get out, hard enough to prevent me from putting more power into it in fear of snapping it. If I do have a cross-threaded plug, what do I do now? Do I force it out and risk a tap and die or leave it to the mechanic hoping he snaps it and then has to tap and die it himself free of charge (wishful thinking?), or leave it and change the other 5?

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If you can afford it, let a reputable mechanic do it. Just watch him/her do the work if you can. If not then double check their work (make sure they use the correct plugs, and that they did change all of them). There are a lot of shady mechanics out there so be careful.'

 

If you do decide to do it yourself, I'd say undo the mounts and roll the motor forward. As for the stuck plug, do whatever it takes to get it out. I was doing the plugs in a 84 CS with the V6 and not only was the #6 plug nearly impossible to get to, it was stuck as well. I broke 2 swivels, 2 sockets, and an extention before I finally got it out (and I broke the plug in half) :bash: . A new one went in just fine.

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i can do a set of 3.4 dohc plugs in 20 minutes flat, front and back, just take off the dogbone, and get a friend to pull the engine foreward.

 

 

oh, and for what its worth, don't do this with a hot engine let it cool.

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so all i would have to do is take off the dogbone and im all set, i don't have to disconnect the axle, do i need a cherry picker, i need some details i can't believe it's just that easy

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so all i would have to do is take off the dogbone and im all set, i don't have to disconnect the axle, do i need a cherry picker, i need some details i can't believe it's just that easy

 

If you had searched you'd find that it is that easy. Remove the dogbone, set your parking brake (if it works properly) and put it in neutral. You should then be able to roll the engine without too awful much effort. Find something to brace it with and go for it!

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so if i break it i won't have to tap and die it to get a new one in?

 

This all depends on where it breaks at. The one that I broke did so in the ceramic part, but if it breaks in the threads, good luck. I think you will probably be ok though.

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Easiest way I have found, and you do not even have to rock the engine forward. Here's how:

 

Pull off the weatherstripping that runs at the top of your engine bay.

Cut notches in the metal with a pair of tin snips where you think your extensions will hit.

Get about 2-3 long extensions.

Go at it.

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one last question before i get at it, why the Rapidfire #8's, aren't those for the Corvette ZR-1? I searched ACDELCO's website for plugs for my car and it came up with #12's. Just a curiosity question.

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well i was just wondering if i gain anything by using #8's in the 3.4 or if it was just a misprint, i guess i will purchase the #12's, however before i do so, what does a "bad" spark plug look like, any specific deposits or colors do i look for? mine have a white rough coating on them, is an indication of a bad plug :oops: ?

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bad news for me, the sparkplugs were changed but unfortunately they found spark plug in cylinder #6 covered with oil...not good :cry: , anyone have a similar experience?

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