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power door lock prob...again


ismellrealbad

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well as some of you may know my driver side door lock crapped out (or did it? i will come to that). The problem with the old one was it would unluck but not lock. So i went and got a replacement off ebay. the one the guy sold me was used and the auction claimed new so i sent it back and they gave me another one. the new one he gave me wroked fine. it unlocked and locked.......that was until i dropped it on the ground and the motor all came apart. so that one doesnt work anymore. then i went on ebay and got another one from a differnt person. when i got it i put it in and said "fuck......this one does the same shit, wtf?"

 

This situation reminds me of when i went thru about 4 power mirrors because they were all "broken" until i realised none of them were broken, it was the switch that was broken. anyway onto the lock...

 

Based on my experience with the mirrors i knew i needed a more direct and seprate power source to test these out. i remembered that a computer power source puts out 5 and 12v DC and 12v was what i needed so i got a Y cable and cut the + -12v wires and stuck them to the lock (I know, i know, this was not intelligent but it worked). well bingo, BOTH the old one and my replacement worked in both directions. but when i put them in my car they still do that stupid shit. you may say its the switch right? wrong. how come the first replacement i got worked fine in the car??? any ideas??

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I don't know if you're up to the extra work or not, but you could try the new part on the other door to see if it works on that side, if it doesn't then it has to be w/ the part. If it does then maybe there is a loose wire somewhere that only makes contact when it feels like it. :x I'm @ work right now, but I'll be glad to take a look @ my GP manual @ home. It may have some useful info.

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Is it completely dead when you try to lock, or just weak?

If it's weak, lube the linkage real good in any and every spot along the way. That usually fixes it for me.

Sometimes the linkage binds up so badly it's even difficult to manually lock and unlock by sliding the lever.

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nothin fancy....well its not that becasue i already know that the locks i have work when they arent powerd by the car (hence the testing with my power source) and since the passenger side works fine i know theres nothing wrong with the passenger side lock or wiring. its something to do with the drivers side. i just dont know what

 

shawn...its not the linkage 1)becasue i dont even have it hooked up to the rod yet im just plugging it in before i even do that and 2)because the linkage slides the way it should

 

i also made sure the contacts i nthe plug are making contact with the contacts on the actuator. they are. i even tried another driver side door lock switch. they both do the same thing. grrrrrrrrrrr :evil:

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i guess what i mean is.....when you say relay, your not just referring to the wires themselves are you? the only components in this i know of are the courtesy fuse, the switch, the lock itself, the wires, and the connector. is there something else i can check?

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dunno....what is this relay and where would i find it

 

The relay is under the passenger side dash behind that access cover. It should make a clicking sound when you press the lock buttons. It might be easier to find the relay by disconnecting the power lock circuit breaker and then listening for the relay click when you push the lock buttons.

 

A relay is an electronic switch. The power lock switches send a low current to the relay. This energizes an electromagnet coil in the relay which pulls the switch contacts together to send a higher current to the lock motors. I have seen dirty/bad internal relay contacts cause problems (you'd have to crack the relay apart to see the internal contacts).

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ok lazyness has kicked in, and im too lazy to figure out which one this may be. can you point me in the right direction? :lol: im guessing in my first picture its either the black thing i have dangling down or the small black box right next to it with the white writing

 

underdash.jpg

uleft.jpg

uright.jpg

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for all of your pictures i only see a 'fortune city' logo ? ooops, my firewall was blocking...

 

i see three relays in your pictures... the dangling one to the left of white letter one and the two side by each on the left side of the electrical block...

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no i cant, im about to just go see whatr gm wants for this part number. i cant crack it open its sealed so tight and theres no opening big enough even to slide the smallest flathead screwdriver in

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no i dont but im about to buy one though ive needed one a couple times now....well i got it open but thing looks fine. doesnt it to you?

 

relay1.jpg

relay2.jpg

relay3.jpg

 

if IMG doesnt work:

http://members.fortunecity.com/ismellrealbad/relay1.jpg

http://members.fortunecity.com/ismellrealbad/relay2.jpg

http://members.fortunecity.com/ismellrealbad/relay3.jpg

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It certainly looks fine, but do you see any black charring on the relay contacts? Not the one the harness plugs into, but the actual switching contacts that close when power is applied to the coil.

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they look pristine. i even blew on them to see if any dusty blackish stuff came out anyway, nothing. i think what im going to do is hook it back up with the casing off and see what happens what its doing when i press the switch. this really has me stumped

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does your car have keyless entry? My 92 GTP was doing the exact same thing with the locking but not unlocking. I replaced the relay that you have found and it worked for maybe 5 min. Then I got a keyless entry module from the junkyard for 20 bucks and now everything works great. I even managed to find 2 remotes to work with the system. This module is under the rear shelf on the passenger side, next to the 6x9 speaker.

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no i dont have keyless but i plan to install an aftermarket unit, which is why im being such a bitch about getting this lock to work. becasue what the fucks the point of spending the money to get this thing if i cant even use it? so frustrating

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