slick Posted May 23, 2005 Report Posted May 23, 2005 Today I decided to start preparing my new trunklid for paint, and one of the things I am doing is shaving the lock cylinder. So.... How does it come out? I have the trunk popper off, but it seems as if it is riveted in there. I assume I will need to drill out the rivet to get it out, correct? I just want to be sure before I start tearing into it. I'd like to save it just in case someone may need one. Quote
cutlsp Posted May 23, 2005 Report Posted May 23, 2005 its riveted in there. you need to drill it out to get the lock out. once that is done you Pry out the little metal flap that holds the lock cylinder in. 8) Quote
slick Posted May 23, 2005 Author Report Posted May 23, 2005 Thats what it appeared I had to do, but was unsure just in case there was another way to get it out. Not like thats hard or anything, but just being sure. Quote
cutlsp Posted May 23, 2005 Report Posted May 23, 2005 yeah i know i just did it lucky for me it was the right thing to do Quote
Intlcutlass Posted May 23, 2005 Report Posted May 23, 2005 It's really easy to replace... if you drill that rivet out, you can pull that retaining plate out of there, then the lock cyl just pulls strait out.... the electric popper doesn't retain it or anything.... When you go to put the lock back in, you can just use a small screw to hold that retaining plate in place.... Quote
z34_nut Posted May 23, 2005 Report Posted May 23, 2005 you are gonna fill that hole with metal right? i would also get an remote trunk popper. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted May 24, 2005 Report Posted May 24, 2005 I would rig up some kind of mechanical emergency trunk popper in case the electric one quits working. I was thinking the cable-driven mechanism used in the GP's could be modified and adapted to a mechanical release. Quote
slick Posted May 24, 2005 Author Report Posted May 24, 2005 I would rig up some kind of mechanical emergency trunk popper in case the electric one quits working. I was thinking the cable-driven mechanism used in the GP's could be modified and adapted to a mechanical release. I'm not too worried about that. The rear leather seat that is in my car is also folddown, so if need be, i'm definately small enough to crawl back there to pop it open. Quote
z34_nut Posted May 24, 2005 Report Posted May 24, 2005 i'm definately small I heard that from tessa too. Quote
slick Posted May 24, 2005 Author Report Posted May 24, 2005 i'm definately small I heard that from tessa too. Yeah yeah yeah, whatever. Quote
stockgp Posted May 24, 2005 Report Posted May 24, 2005 hmm. my trun lock cylinder on al 3 of my gps was bolted in. or am i missing something? Quote
slick Posted May 24, 2005 Author Report Posted May 24, 2005 Drilled it out, and now i'm stripping the paint in the area to prepare for it to be shaved. Thanks fellas. Quote
J Posted May 24, 2005 Report Posted May 24, 2005 usually a freeze olug will fit right in and welded up, it's easier then using sheet metal Quote
z34_nut Posted May 24, 2005 Report Posted May 24, 2005 Drilled it out, and now i'm stripping the paint in the area to prepare for it to be shaved. Thanks fellas. so really, how are you gonna fill that hole? Quote
digitaloutsider Posted May 24, 2005 Report Posted May 24, 2005 I would rig up some kind of mechanical emergency trunk popper in case the electric one quits working. I was thinking the cable-driven mechanism used in the GP's could be modified and adapted to a mechanical release. Are you thinking of the Grand Am's? Quote
slick Posted May 24, 2005 Author Report Posted May 24, 2005 Drilled it out, and now i'm stripping the paint in the area to prepare for it to be shaved. Thanks fellas. so really, how are you gonna fill that hole? I really like Jay's idea better than welding a plate in place, so I will probably go that route. Once it has been welded over, i'll smooth it out with about as minimal body filler as possible. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted May 25, 2005 Report Posted May 25, 2005 I would rig up some kind of mechanical emergency trunk popper in case the electric one quits working. I was thinking the cable-driven mechanism used in the GP's could be modified and adapted to a mechanical release. Are you thinking of the Grand Am's? Nope, but that would probably work. My TGP has a short cable going from the lock cylinder to the latch because the lock is centered, but the latch is slightly off to the side. Quote
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