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Inner Tie Rod Ends


Rabbi

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ive been quoted at 300 bucks for a front end alignment

 

no way im paying that crap.

 

They say i need new inner tie rod ends. How hard are these babys to install? Ive heard they are riveted in?

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$300!!!

 

You can get a 4-wheel alignment at Belle Tire for $50.

 

IIRC- You need a special tool for the inners. Not to mention you're going to need to get a alignment when you're done.

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inner tie rod ends??

 

Usually when people refer to tie-rod end they mean the outter tie rod (which is easy to do). I've never had to deal with inner tie rods yet..

 

If it is the inners get quotes from others.. $300 is high

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Seriously - inners are no joke - ESPECALLY if they are siezed on.

 

You're gonna pay around 300 for both & an alignment here in michigan....

 

Sorry man...

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I've changed an inner on my car, and it wasn't nearly the nightmare some of you guys are making it out to be. I think it took what, 45-minutes? With the right tools, it's WAY easier to just swap the inner tierod than to swap the whole rack!!! That's like pulling an engine to change the oil!

 

You just need some tools:

Basic tools:

- Metric socket set

- Giant torque wrenches and/or very long wrench

- Jack and jack stands

- Pliers

 

Specialty tools (this is what makes it easy):

- Huge 10" long socket adapter for the inner tierod ($20-30)

- Pitman arm puller $8 (or better yet, GM outer tierod remover $90)

- Tierod crimping tool ($75, but money WELL spent)

- Dremel with cutting wheel (I use a B&D Wizard)

- CV/tierod clamp crimping tool

 

There are things that are less fun, like swapping a 3.4 DOHC alternator or an AC compressor.

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I did a pass side inner on my sisters old car, after that it became fun. Helped do one on my friend's car and it was a quick job. But the advantage of getting it done at the same place as where it's getting aligned is you wont have to worry about driving the car out of alignment.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think I need new inners. When I move my passenger side tire I hear the clicking. It seems like it moves 1/4 to 1/2 inch, but the outer stays put. I also have excessive wear on the outside AND inside of the tire. I keep my pressure at 35-40 psi, so I doubt that it's that. Do I really need to buy that 75 dollar tool? i don't have that much money right now. Can I borrow it from auto zone? And what is this CV crimping tool that you speak of?

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The tierod crimping tool stakes the tierod to the rack so it doesn't have any chance of backing off. The service manual tells you to use a punch and chisel with the rack out of the car, but it's almost impossible to get a punch and chisel with the rack in the car. I think that's why they came up with the $75 tierod crimping tool. It clamps onto the tierod and just tighten it with a wrench. Voila! Perfectly staked inner tierod. Anyway, there might be other ways you can do it. I've also heard some people say just using threadlocker is good enough. I just didn't want to take a chance on it possibly loosening so I bought the tool. I don't know if Autozone has it or not.

 

The CV crimping tool looks like weird pliers and crimps the clamp onto CV joint boots and such. It also works great for the inner tierod boot clamp which you have to cut off. I don't remember how much I paid for it, but I got it from Pep Boys a long time ago. It's a pretty handy tool, works on CV and tierod boot clamps for pretty much every car.

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I did a pass side inner on my sisters old car, after that it became fun. Helped do one on my friend's car and it was a quick job. But the advantage of getting it done at the same place as where it's getting aligned is you wont have to worry about driving the car out of alignment.

 

i drove that bitch for 4 days after we did that to my car, haha shit was awsome!

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