Jon89le Posted January 24, 2003 Report Posted January 24, 2003 Is there a certain sequence or any certain steps i should follow? The book says something about doing the master cylinder and then the lines or something like that. The cars been sitting for a long time so i know theres going to be a nice amount of air. Thanks for any input. Quote
brian89gp Posted January 24, 2003 Report Posted January 24, 2003 Have someone pump the brake while you operate the bleeder valves. Start with the caliper that has the shortest line and do the one with the longest line last. Quote
Steve LS Posted January 24, 2003 Report Posted January 24, 2003 I dont know if theres anything specific to your system but old school is start at the furthest - rear. I've only had one car that had bleeder valves on the master and that was a 75 Datsun you needed to run a tube from one back into the reservore because you couldnt pump the pedal if say your fronts were good and you did the rears. You actually had good hard pedal and could not pump the rears out. What made brakes easy for me was : 3-4 feet of clear gas line and a glass jar (peanut butter). 1/4" or 3/16's hose , you want it tight on the bleeder valve.Fill reservior,open valve and pump away or the wife/girlfriend. I try to express the value of all that pumpin to the wife everytime I do brakes . While the fluid is commin out you can see when the air bubbles clear. Tighten valve and got to the next wheel,next and so on. Then I check pedal and go around again just to make sure. Dont reuse the fluid, your also flushing the system at the same time. You can actually do this by yourself. Check your fluid every 10 pumps. Once the hose is full and end sumerged in fluid you can get out go look and tell if theres air still in line , but I prefer help. On the drivers side you can watch what your doing while pumping. Maybe start on the drivers rear to get a feel for it. I wish you luck cracking your bleeder valves. Sometimes a rose sometimes a thorn. Quote
Steve LS Posted January 24, 2003 Report Posted January 24, 2003 Start where you want but dont waist your time opening and closing bleeder valve every pump, just flush it right on out. They do not take air back into the bleeder if you keep pumping and use the clear fuel line.Once its full it cant get air.With help it should'nt take longer than 10 minutes if you have already made sure your valves are going to cooperate. Quote
Jon89le Posted January 24, 2003 Author Report Posted January 24, 2003 Well i ended up buying new calipers because the old bleeder valves welded themselves on. Now when i do the rears would i do one wheel at a time or what? And ill have my dad assisting me so ill have the extra person... Quote
brian89gp Posted January 24, 2003 Report Posted January 24, 2003 maybe it was furthest first, its been a while. Quote
GPRACER Posted January 24, 2003 Report Posted January 24, 2003 yeah start at the one thats the longest distance from the master cylinder. If you are installing a new Master Cylinder, they need to be bench bled first and every one I've ever seen comes with a kit to do so and instructions. Quote
Jon89le Posted January 26, 2003 Author Report Posted January 26, 2003 Alright, thanks for the help guys. The pedal is kind of spongy so i am going to redo the front brakes since my dad did the fronts the other way (press brake, close bleeder, release brake, press...) For the rears i just opened the bleeder up and with a hose connect to a jug (bottom of a milk carton) i just slowly pressed and released the brakes until no more bubbles came out. Quote
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