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Problem Starting....help pls


f_399

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I tried starting the car awhile ago and nothing would happen. The radio and all will turn on, my radar reads 13-14volts which is about normal.

 

theres no clicking sound at all but looked like the battery was working because everything was ok

 

ten after 5 mins it turned on again!

 

then after that incident the car became so random, sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesnt. so far its been ok

 

the SECURITY light is now permanently on!

 

Whats wrong?

 

i had it checked and the battery was fully charged and the alternator was charging

 

could it be the starter?

 

HELP

 

thanks!!

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the chip in your key is going bad you need to

A) get a new key at the stealership made for your car

B) clean your key's chip's contacts

 

i would try B first :wink:

if it doesn't work you need a new key :lol:

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the chip that is going bad in his car is part of the PASSKEY system his car has i have no clue about your car it could be as small as the ignition cylinder or as big as the starter :?

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The "VATS" system (also called "PASSKey II") began in the W-Bodies in 1994 (except Lumina,) coinciding with the addition of airbags and the switchover to the "saginaw" style steering column. The 88-93 W-Bodies (and 94 Luminas) with the "square" steering column and the large ignition key do not have the VATS system.

 

I have a write-up posted on how to bypass the system:

http://www.likeabigdog.com/column/VATS.htm

 

Usually what happens with these systems is the wires for the VATS reader break off from the ignition lock cylinder. My write-up shows you how to bypass the system without tearing into the steering column to replace the lock cylinder (that is, if you're afraid of tearing the column completely apart...)

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i have a 93 Z34 is there a "chip" going bad in it cuz mine will do the samething except without the security light

 

There is no chip in that car. 1994+

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so is it only the jey thats the problem.

 

now that the security light is on i have no problems starting the car.

 

could there be anything else broken besides the VATS key?

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I'd say go and have a duplicate made ASAP (either from the dealer or a locksmith) and see if the new key gives you the same problems.

 

Read this document for a better understanding on how the system works.

 

The "reader" inside the lock cylinder has 2 wires on it that run down inside the steering column. Sometimes they break off of the lock cylinder and cause the "no start" problem. Usually when this happens, there's no chance you'll get the car started. If you can start the car every once in a while, then your key is most likely worn out.

 

Start with a new key, and go from there...

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I left my car in a friends house. The car wouldnt start anymore. Its sunday so I cant do anything about it.

 

Will go to GM first thing tom morning and buy a key, should this fix the problem?

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Do you know anybody who's good with a soldering iron?

 

It's really not complicated at all. There are only 15 different "values" that the chip could be. I'd imagine if you went to Radio Shack, they'd let you test out one of their voltmeters and you could measure the resistance across your key's "pellet" right there.

 

From there, tell the salesperson that you need to "chain" together some resistors to obtain the value you read on the meter, and I'm sure they'd point you in the right direction.

 

The only "tool" you really need (other than a pair of wire cutters) is a soldering iron, and even one of those cheap battery powered ones would get you by.

 

In total, it shouldn't cost more than 5 bucks for all of the parts at Radio Shack. It shouldn't take you more than 15-20 minutes to assemble the "resistor pack" and no more than 10-15 minutes to install it in the car.

 

If you ever decide to do the VATS bypass, feel free to e-mail me (or drop me a PM on the board here) and I'll be glad to help you out :) ...

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Disco,

I posted the link to your...umm...."our" :wink: writeup in F399's post on MyMonte.com also. But he didn't read it there either hehe. F399, Disco's link isn't difficult at all to follow. You need a resistor (or two) and electrical tape. Well, and a screwdriver to drop the lower kickpanel. There's nothing difficult about bypassing VATS (hell, the total bypass costs what, 5 bux or so)?

WMZZZ

 

Edit: You could probably, if you get lucky and only need one resistor, try to plug and tape the resistor into the end of the VATS connector, hold it there, start the car, and get home that way. Even if the resistor falls out on the ride home w/the car running, all that happens is the security light will turn on. The car will still run fine, but just wont start after its shut off.

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:lol:

 

I got an e-mail about a month ago from a guy (can't remember who) who soldered a wire onto each side of his key (actually each side of the pellet) and popped that into the connector where the VATS wiring plugs in underneath the dash :lol: .

 

I actually get e-mailed quite a bit with "stories" of how people have bypassed their VATS systems. Most use my document as a guideline (I suppose, seeing as it's kinda "rough" around the edges) but you'd be surprised at what a little ingenuity will get ya :lol: ...

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:lol:

 

I got an e-mail about a month ago from a guy (can't remember who) who soldered a wire onto each side of his key (actually each side of the pellet) and popped that into the connector where the VATS wiring plugs in underneath the dash :lol: .

 

I actually get e-mailed quite a bit with "stories" of how people have bypassed their VATS systems. Most use my document as a guideline (I suppose, seeing as it's kinda "rough" around the edges) but you'd be surprised at what a little ingenuity will get ya :lol: ...

 

:lol: soldering it to the resistor on the key. That's pretty dang funny. But, ingenious I must say. :wink: :P :shock:

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went and bought a key and still would not start

 

i decided to bring it to GM for the recall on luminas and also check what is wrong

 

driving a grand am rent a car now

 

hope it wont be anything expensive.

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