R Dubya Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 I actually did some things with both of my TGP's today.. started up the one I rebuilt last summer just now. It had a dead-ass battery that I replaced with a 5 yr AC Delco I got from work. She started right up and purrs nicely.. no weird sounds, but it is running rich, which I can attribute to some sort of vac leak that I will trace down in the next few weeks. I am also planning on removing the LIM and checking the #10 cam lobe that was originally the cause of the rebuild, just to be sure I don't need to add an oiler to keep it from failing again. I put about 1500 miles on it last summer before I took it off the road, and I am going to be using Mobil 1 5w-30 on my next change, which will be this week. It sounds good, all I have to do is get a few minor things done with her this spring and hopefully I will be getting optimum gas mileage for the summer. I stripped my '95 Lumina knuckles down this weekend, I'm going to sand blast them and have all the parts powder coated (depending on price) and then install the Birchmount spring and the Intrax's in the front. I need new struts for the knuckles, the existing j/y ones are shot, new rotors/pads, and I will go from there. Does anyone know if the w-body strut tool is of use with the knuckles out of the car? Is it worth my time to try it, or just install the new struts after the knuckles are installed? Advance Auto Parts lists two different pn#'s for the struts from my car, and the struts from the '95 Lumi. Is this just a minor difference in stiffness, and will I be ok removing the good struts I have in my TGP now to use with the new lowering knuckles? I am waiting to post pics until it's lowered, which I will offer before/after comparisons of the drop. Any input/help appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 Does anyone know if the w-body strut tool is of use with the knuckles out of the car? i'm pretty sure you have to do it with the knuckles installed and the weight of the car compressing the coil springs a little. Kenny would know for sure....i know he's used the W-body strut tool before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 Does anyone know if the w-body strut tool is of use with the knuckles out of the car? Is it worth my time to try it, or just install the new struts after the knuckles are installed? Advance Auto Parts lists two different pn#'s for the struts from my car, and the struts from the '95 Lumi. Is this just a minor difference in stiffness, and will I be ok removing the good struts I have in my TGP now to use with the new lowering knuckles? I am waiting to post pics until it's lowered, which I will offer before/after comparisons of the drop. Any input/help appreciated! The W-body strut tool assists in removing the cartridge from a weighted strut (weight of car) from the top of the strut mount and removong the strut cartridge cap. It also helps to keep the cartridge assembly centered because as soon as you remove the top center bushing it will flop to one side with a weighted car. If you have no car weight on the strut the tools in the kit you will definitely need are the cartridge cap tool. Long story short...get borrow the W-body tool to make it easier to remove. As far as the lowering nuckle...I am not familiar with it, but as long as it does not change the length of the strut lower mount or cylinder length...it will be fine... 8) DO NOT REMOVE THE TOP NUT FROM THE STRUT IF THE CAR IS NOT SITTING ON IT'S WHEELS! YOU WILL NEED A SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL TO RELEIVE THE SPRING LOAD!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted April 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 I can "borrow" the tool from Autozone here in town, pay ahead of time and then return it for a full refund, including tax, so it actually is free. I will do that when I get them installed. I cut off both ball joints today so I will be riding on a brand new suspension in the front.. I'm excited to see what it looks like. I'm just going to have to be way more careful of that valence now.. If I run a laptop scan on this car, such as datamaster or something along those lines, will it help me determine if I have a vacuum leak or possibly assist in a solution? I have access to a couple laptops now, I want to learn this stuff like you don't even know. What do you think is the best method to troubleshooting a rich condition? I am going to install a brand new O2 sensor also before I run any diagnostics. And sorry to squeeze in so many questions here, but Kenny, do you know what the minimum requirements for a laptop would be to run one of these programs? I assume as long as it has a serial connection any PC should work? (Pentium 1 -->) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted April 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 Yeah, I'm becoming a professional at strut replacement.. (not really but I know the basics). I like my eyeballs and prefer them to stay in their sockets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 Yeah, I'm becoming a professional at strut replacement.. (not really but I know the basics). I like my eyeballs and prefer them to stay in their sockets. If you were not aware....W-body strut replacement is different from most because it has a removable cartridge inside. You are required to just take off the top strut plate, remove the center nut and center top rubber bushing. The strut cartridge top will slam to the side if you do not relieve a touch of the cars weight (jacked at frame...not lower suspension arm). Not a big deal if you are replacing it with new and do not care about the threads. There is a rod with a female thread that you use to thread onto the top of the strut cartridge and it gives you leverage to pull the strut centered. Then you slide the large sleave down around the strut body. This will then hold it centered. The next tool you need is the long rod with two teeth on it (sorry my terminology is off) and this is used to remove the threaded strut cartridge cap. Once that is loose you will need a bunch of rags because the stock cartridge is an open design sitting in a pool of shock oil. It will run out of the cartridge as you pull it out. You should syphon the old oil out so when you put in the new SEALED cartridge it does not overflow and make a serious mess! Reverse order and you are done... 8) If I run a laptop scan on this car, such as datamaster or something along those lines, will it help me determine if I have a vacuum leak or possibly assist in a solution? I have access to a couple laptops now, I want to learn this stuff like you don't even know. What do you think is the best method to troubleshooting a rich condition? I am going to install a brand new O2 sensor also before I run any diagnostics. And sorry to squeeze in so many questions here, but Kenny, do you know what the minimum requirements for a laptop would be to run one of these programs? I assume as long as it has a serial connection any PC should work? (Pentium 1 -->) Questions from 1st to last...no worries...ask away! 1). Not sure about diag of vacuum leak. I would think the MAP sensor sees vacuum as well as Boost so maybe if it is low readings. 2). Rich conditions on these cars can be a SLEW of shit or something very simple. In no specific order and possibly missed items...Bad 02 sensor, cracked cross-over allowing in fresh air, bad exhaust manifold gaskets allowing in fresh air, stuck open/leaking injectors(s), vac leak, Bad MAT sensor reading constant cold, bad block temp sensor reading constant cold, failed Fuel Pressure Regulator...all I can think of off the top of my head at the moment. 3). Best person to ask that I know of is LukeZ34. I think Mick at http://www.gmpcm.com has some basic datalogger info over there also. Don't worry about asking questions...that is what we are here for...to help! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 Once that is loose you will need a bunch of rags because the stock cartridge is an open design sitting in a pool of shock oil. It will run out of the cartridge as you pull it out. You should syphon the old oil out so when you put in the new SEALED cartridge it does not overflow and make a serious mess! Reverse order and you are done... 8) if someplace (like Midas or a GM dealership) had replaced the front struts recently, would they more than likely be replaced with a sealed strut cartridge or not? Midas had replaced my front struts back in summer of 2000 so i will be doing this job soon as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 if someplace (like Midas or a GM dealership) had replaced the front struts recently, would they more than likely be replaced with a sealed strut cartridge or not? Midas had replaced my front struts back in summer of 2000 so i will be doing this job soon as well. Most likely. I think even GM sells them as sealed AC-Delco units. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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