SleeperRed90TGp Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Fab Move egr bung on crossover Slot egr to match intake manifold Lengthen wires to TB Modify TB linkage bracket. Weld on TV part of bracket from TGP Make a plate to bolt to new TB for TV link edge. 16 or 18 ga. This seems to be one of the more difficult mods. I have a pattern of the plate that I will loan to anybody doing the swap. Remove TV lug on old TB (grind off the back and press out) press into new plate. !/4 drilled hole. Modify top tube from intercooler to TB. Shorter and removes one bend. Weld on a bracket to support the above tube.( I attached it to the turbo) Mod lifter guides to sit flat. A couple of V notches and a little grinding. Grind flat on lifters. (may not be necessary but I went safe rather than sorry) Flat goes toward the cam as it comes up(left side outboard, right side inboard) Brackets w/ springs (3) to hold down lifter guides. Takes some playing with. 1/8x1" alum fb. Gasket match EX manifolds. You will have to do alot of grinding. With the manifold at the bottom(low on the head) there is enough left to seal on the lower part of the D. I matched everything. Cut fittings off of fuel hoses and clamp to new fittings(double clamp). Use fuel line clamps. Leave front fuel rail hold down off. Makes a lot more room for the harness. Weld nipple on for heater return Bend new heater inlet tube to clear egr. Pipe under manifold. I cut and capped it. Makes for more room. Turbo water return line. Put tee in oil cooler return line. Manifole air temp sensor. Just remove the water house fitting on the back of the manifold and screw in the sensor. Parts from 2000 up. Get later model lower rad hose. 93 I think The inlet to the engine is smaller. Late model throttle cable Timing cover PS pump and lines Cam lifters and related hardware. Heads and all the stuff that goes with them. Compression will go up about 2cc worth with the TGP gasket but will be lower than a 3400. I used the 3400 gasket cus its bigger. Doesn’t negate the 2cc but every little bit helps. Can't rate the difficulty for you. For me it was a no brainier. I've been doing this kind of stuff most of my life. If your mechanically inclined you can do it. A welder at home helps. It’s 40-60 hrs work. For the welding you could get it done for around 50. The only tools you might want to get are the tools to disconnect the late model fuel lines. About 10. As for power increase I don’t know what the difference is. On paper this motor with the GT28BB has 325-350 Hp. At the track it has run ¾ * faster but in all fairness I didn’t have the old set up tuned as well as this one. It is for sure a power adder. Cost J/y everything but the ps pump 225. I pulled the parts Ps pump 25 Head gaskets 40. You can use the 10 TGP gasket but you have to relieve 5 or 6 of the water holes in the bottom of the head. Lower intake gasket. If you take it off carefully you can use it over. I have used it twice. Otherwise about 50. Upper intake gasket. Same as above only I have proly used it 6 times. Ex gaskets used old ones off the 3400. 15 You will need the bolts and manifolds from TGP Timing gasket 10 Rocker cover gaskets. They never need repalcing. Head bolts used over a couple times I just use more torque. 20. Replace them if you want. Recomended. Pushrods if you don’t use the roller cam, 60-100 depending on who you get them from. I am sure I have missed something it’s been awhile. If I think of something else I’ll edit this. Have fun. Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90TGP Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Sweet, now I have a plan for next year. What about the vacuum block on top of the TGP throttle body, does it swap over, or do you use the 3x00 block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted April 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Sweet, now I have a plan for next year. What about the vacuum block on top of the TGP throttle body, does it swap over, or do you use the 3x00 block? You just start over with vaccum. If you get everything off of your doner you will have the line from the Map to the pressure regulator. the rest is Just manifold it. There is a port on the pass side rear that you can run your accessories from(heater, egr, boost gauge and so on. There is one at the driverside front to run the trans modulator. Vaccum is the least of your ptoblems. Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Vaccum is the least of your ptoblems. Jud There are plenty of vacuum ports in the 3100 plenum to use. You might end up having to cap one off actually. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 I kept this duplicate topic for now as a discussion zone for your talks on 3400 top end swap, but have made it a sticky up top for making changes, corrections etc into. To allow it to be a sticky, going to need for you to reveal the upgraded turbo or people are going to not be fully informed on your end results; 325-350hp, can’t have confusion about something this important! Also I took out reusing the head bolts, sorry, these are stretch-to-yield and should never be reused!....once stretched that is it for them, asking them to take more stretch beyond their original values will head them into a failing condition. Bolts are nothing more than springs, you stretch them to their proper range for the clamping strength you need and you are good to go, go beyond that and they will be toast, especially stock ones which are not ductile enough for any reuse. And with the forces of the compressions/explosions in the engine and since we have aluminum heads which expand more than steel heads, these two forces will stretch a bolt even further than just the (over) torque reading felt to make up for them being used. If you would like these words coming from someone older, ask Ken Duttweiler, or read some books from the best damn garage/Smokey Yunick . I will review later to see if there is anything I can add, if you don’t mind, this can be a nice addition to the board, at least for a few guys. Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Next would be the following: Did you have to grind out the Round-Ports of the TGP exhaust manifolds to match the D-Port in the 3400 heads? As for the very small 2cc decrease(?) in volume with the combustion chamber, that should be gone if one takes the heads to be worked on i.e. blending the bowl, cutting down the ridge at the valve seat lip to combustion chamber area, cleaning off the nasty pits a little in the combustion chamber, plenty of meat for a little 2cc gain 8) , we do prefer lower compression, we can raise it back up with the turbo 8) Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboGTU Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 DO you happen to have a pic, drawing or mock up of what the lifter/sping/braket setup looks like? I can see a SBC setup..but I cain't picture it with this offset valvetrain. Good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted April 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 I kept this duplicate topic for now as a discussion zone for your talks on 3400 top end swap, but have made it a sticky up top for making changes, corrections etc into. To allow it to be a sticky, going to need for you to reveal the upgraded turbo or people are going to not be fully informed on your end results; 325-350hp, can’t have confusion about something this important! Also I took out reusing the head bolts, sorry, these are stretch-to-yield and should never be reused!....once stretched that is it for them, asking them to take more stretch beyond their original values will head them into a failing condition. Bolts are nothing more than springs, you stretch them to their proper range for the clamping strength you need and you are good to go, go beyond that and they will be toast, especially stock ones which are not ductile enough for any reuse. And with the forces of the compressions/explosions in the engine and since we have aluminum heads which expand more than steel heads, these two forces will stretch a bolt even further than just the (over) torque reading felt to make up for them being used. If you would like these words coming from someone older, ask Ken Duttweiler, or read some books from the best damn garage/Smokey Yunick . I will review later to see if there is anything I can add, if you don’t mind, this can be a nice addition to the board, at least for a few guys. Jeff M I added the turbo to the HP line. I already did a write up on the install. Don't know where it is. :oops: It's either on here or over there. I do know where the pictures are. Either the sentance that I used the head bolts over stays or remove the post/sticky. I don't mind you adding things thru this disscusion but I will not allow being sensored. I said what I did and that's what will be in there. I don care who says don't use them over and that is the proper thing to do. It works for me to use them over so I do.I did add "change them if you want. Recomended" As a matter of fact I used one side of the bolts twice. Once for the orginial install and again when I droped a little bolt down the intake when changing injectors. then went out and ran the 13.88. Ex gasket match. Pretty clear to me but I added more info. No felpro. Remove that for now. I just change gaskets about 6 months on son inlaws 97 3100. I'm pretty sure it was a new design. It was definatly different. I'll be at the parts store in the next couple of days and I'll let everybody know what I find. Added MAT installation. 2 cc adds 0.238 compression. There is enoug meat to take out 4cc's.I did it on a pair of heads and would never do it again. I went to 30 cc. It took me longer to cc the chambers than it did to route/grind. CCing these heads is a PIA. How come your the author of the sticky? Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted April 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 DO you happen to have a pic, drawing or mock up of what the lifter/sping/braket setup looks like? I can see a SBC setup..but I cain't picture it with this offset valvetrain. Good work. Here you are. This was one of the first trys. The setup I ended up with is a little different but this will give you a good idea. lifter guide spring and bracket. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/sleeperred90tgp/sleeperred90tgp/IMG_0006.jpg lifter guide plate mod http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/sleeperred90tgp/IMG_0001.jpg lifter guide hold down http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/sleeperred90tgp/GuidePlateHoldDown.jpg Just looked at these, sorry for the quality but's that all I have. If somebody is going to do this I will provide a drawing for you of the bracket. Atleast I wrote down the final Dim's Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted April 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Jeff would you please remove the sticky thread. I am not comfortable with where your going. Heck I can't even edit my own sticky/post. I can't remember being sensored since I was to old to spank. I'll still accept your input and anybody elses but I'am going to do the writing. Should you want to make it a sticky at a later date we can discuss it. Thanks Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Just an FYI for all interested It is also here... http://www.netavalanche.com/tgp/viewtopic.php?t=2604 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 Jeff would you please remove the sticky thread. I am not comfortable with where your going. Heck I can't even edit my own sticky/post. I can't remember being sensored since I was to old to spank. I'll still accept your input and anybody elses but I'am going to do the writing. Should you want to make it a sticky at a later date we can discuss it. Thanks Jud Very sorry Jud, for some reason I am NOT being notified of replies to topics or that I have PMs, did not know there was talk here or a request by you!!! Will look into that but for now!!! When I made it a sticky for you (thought you would feel good about it :? ) it makes me with the Author since I stuck it. Sorry but did you see that the Main Topic Line states "Jud's 3400 Top End Swap Details"??? I am not trying to sensor you, anything that would become hardwired into the top of this message board would have to have some additions such as "Suggested new head bolts, or reuse, you choice" etc since the words do become represented/committed to by this board as well, it would then be something the board would have to be involved with! I could add at the top of the post this was yours but sounds as though we are past that so, off she goes 8) . Sorry again for the delay in taking care of your request, and any ill-interpretations felt, THANK YOU for your patiences as well!! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90TGP Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 I also found this website through the v6z24 forum on hybrid builds. http://www.domesticcrew.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted April 6, 2005 Report Share Posted April 6, 2005 I also found this website through the v6z24 forum on hybrid builds. http://www.domesticcrew.com This site was very helpful while I was doing mine. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboGTU Posted April 8, 2005 Report Share Posted April 8, 2005 OK..that makes it clear. Didn't know you could use the roller cam and parts on it like people do on the SBC/90º . Awsome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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