o-ring secrets

[GnatGoSplat]

I'm still not seeing it. What I'm picturing in my head by that description doesn't make sense.

[White93z34]

well, what i'm doing this week:

 

i'm pulling it all apart again :x then this time i'm going to use a rubber O ring like i did this time, but i will also seal it with RTV, like i should have last time :oops:

[GP1138]

well, what i'm doing this week:

 

i'm pulling it all apart again :x then this time i'm going to use a rubber O ring like i did this time, but i will also seal it with RTV, like i should have last time :oops:

 

Good luck, man. After what we did on my motor, I'm not ready to be tearing anything down anytime soon. Maybe a headgasket job on a 2.2L :lol:

[White93z34]

i wish that was the last biggest job i have. this week i'm gona start pulling the engine in a 91' camaro, and hopefully fix that O ring for third and final time. too much work!

[Aaron]

Goddamn guys, just weld the fucker, you'll never have to worry about it again.

 

Gnatgosplat, I can't explain any better, but I'll have pics soon I hope.

[5speedz34]

Aaron, I'm kinda lost too but I got a pic up so can you explain it a little better? I mean your not pulling the drive out so are you grinding the tab down first so its flush w/the block and then welding. What I'm picturing is a piece of metal on top of the drive w/nothing between the top of the drive and the block (about 1/4"). Please elaborate.

 

 

[Brian P]

I'm still not seeing it. What I'm picturing in my head by that description doesn't make sense.

 

 

[Aaron]

I can't really. When I get back to CO, I'll get a pic of what I am going to do.

[5speedz34]

Ok, cool...

[95 3-4]

I also dont see how you can weld it or put a plate over it.

I do know you dont have to lift if far to get a cut 1985 S-10 distibutor gasket on and a good bead of Rtv to seal it up.

 

Grinding the lip off the drive also sounds good, grinding the head is mickey mouse shadetree mechanic stuff

Headgaskets and timing belt/tensioner/idlers and seeing the wear in the 100k juggs is best, but can be cost prohibitive at best.

[ross442]

A cheat I learned that worked on my 3.4 - Pull the upper / lower intake maifolds so you can acess the oil pump drive shaft assembly. Remove the hold dowm clamp. Now lift up the drive assembly, it will only lift up a little before it hits the rear head. Take the new O ring, stretch it, and slip it over the head of the drive shaft assembly until it is on the bottom side. You have to work the drive up and down a little to get the O ring past the edge of the head. Now simply clamp it back down and presto leak fixed. The factory O ring actually sits in a groove partway down the shaft of the drive. The new O ring simply compresses between the bottom side of the drive assembly and the top of the block. This worked perfect for me, my 3.4 was pissing oil out here and it has not leaked a drop in another 50,000 miles.

[GPXSS]

Weld what closed?

Oil pump drive is aluminum, block is iron, you can weld aluminum to iron?

 

Put a steel plate over the opening/hole and weld it closed. It isn't rocket science.

 

no, but if you ever want to pull the pump drive or the dummy cam out, you'll be pretty screwed.

 

Besides the fact that your weld wont hold very long, good luck welding cast iron with a MIG gun.