Guest Anonymous Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Does anyone know the "secret" way to remove/replace the o-ring on an LQ1, WITHOUT pulling the heads? I was talking to a mechanic yesterday and he said he knows a way to do so without pulling the heads, but wont tell the secret. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 well.... theres several ways.. i've explored / contemplated all of em. 1. pull the heads (duh) 2. JB weld, perminent and possable to remove someday 3. RTV and hope for the best. 4. cut a chunk out of the rear head, i think that to be a very bad idea with a coolant passage right above it. 5. O ring fix, i'm experimenting with it now. i have a big box of assorted O rings that i'm playing with. 6. get sheet gasket material and make a gasket, it could work, but i have my doubts. currently i used #5, it seems to work OK as in my car no longer uses a quart a week. but i have a small drip if the car sits for awhile. and since i'm anal retentive i'll prolly combine #3 and #5 or mabie let it go till i change my timing belt next and just pull the heads then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Actually #4 seems to be quite the common thing to do to make for easy removal of the oil pump drive. Personally, I would just yank the heads. Think of it this way.....you are resealing the top half of the motor.....plus you can throw on a new timing belt. Whats not to like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 i know what you mean, but i just do not like the idea of takeing away a intake mounting point, esp since its right where a coolant passage is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 red RTV works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Do it the right fucking way. It isn't that difficult of a process, even on the LQ1. Stop finding temporary fixes for a simple problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Do it the right fucking way. It isn't that difficult of a process, even on the LQ1. Stop finding temporary fixes for a simple problem. shaun, i don't know about you but in my situation. i cannot afford to pull the heads, that would require timing belt replacement which i really don't need/can't afford to do right now, and headgasket replacement. thats ALOT more work then what i can do in one night. i need the car every day for hte most part and i can't put it down for more then one day unless i have someting else to drive. and the euro is out of the question since its not even tagged. so it comes down to $400~ish versus Free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 I am welding a plate over it myself, I figure that should hold...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOHC_WBody Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 I am welding a plate over it myself, I figure that should hold...lol I like Aaron's response here...preaching the "one step past JBWeld and Duct tape" gospel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Go buy a distributor gasket, slit at a 45*, slip it around with the slit accesable and with a feeler gauge put RTV or anything top and bottom. The little difference in hight won't hurt the gear engagment. It'll still pump just fine. As I remember its a chevy gasket that's the same size. Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Do it the right fucking way. It isn't that difficult of a process, even on the LQ1. Stop finding temporary fixes for a simple problem. shaun, i don't know about you but in my situation. i cannot afford to pull the heads, that would require timing belt replacement which i really don't need/can't afford to do right now, and headgasket replacement. thats ALOT more work then what i can do in one night. i need the car every day for hte most part and i can't put it down for more then one day unless i have someting else to drive. and the euro is out of the question since its not even tagged. so it comes down to $400~ish versus Free Ack. I didn't know the timing belt had to be changed. :oops: Why the fuck did GM insist on using that same block?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Im not doing anything to my o-ring, its fine, it just came up in conversation that there is a way around pulling the heads... I didnt know that this would lead to swearing and flaming of such a trvial detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 Do it the right fucking way. It isn't that difficult of a process, even on the LQ1. Stop finding temporary fixes for a simple problem. shaun, i don't know about you but in my situation. i cannot afford to pull the heads, that would require timing belt replacement which i really don't need/can't afford to do right now, and headgasket replacement. thats ALOT more work then what i can do in one night. i need the car every day for hte most part and i can't put it down for more then one day unless i have someting else to drive. and the euro is out of the question since its not even tagged. so it comes down to $400~ish versus Free Ack. I didn't know the timing belt had to be changed. :oops: Why the fuck did GM insist on using that same block?! GM still uses the same design on the 3400 motor! Honestly if I'm ever doing this I'm pulling my heads and getting some P+P done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 I'd advise P&P your new heads As for the rest of you, shut up and go get it welded. btw, the timing belt does not have to be changed if it is removed, it is just a good idea. But if it is new, it will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 I'd advise P&P your new heads As for the rest of you, shut up and go get it welded. btw, the timing belt does not have to be changed if it is removed, it is just a good idea. But if it is new, it will be fine. That'll be done the road...muahahahah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted April 3, 2005 Report Share Posted April 3, 2005 I took my dremel and I ground the lip off of the top of the distributor plug, but only half way around. I then rotated the plug so that the ground off portion was under the LIM mounting tab. I then took my visegrips and grabbed onto the remaining half of the lip and pulled up. By having the lip gone underneath the LIM mounting tab, I gained about 3/16". I took an oring out of the back of my mag light(laugh if you must, but it worked) stretched it over the plug and squeezed of bunch of RTV in there with it. Then I pushed the plug back down and let it dry before clamping it back down. That was 6 months ago and it still hasn't leaked top this day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 My car leaks far too much oil for me to let it go any longer. One place gave me 2 service choices (I can't do this kind of work myself and w/o a reliable service area to work in). 1) Cut the head area to fit the new gasket (eep!). 2) Pull the head. Both are quoted over $1000 based on $75/hour + $500 for a gasket kit. Seriously... $500 for a f**king gasket kit???? Can anyone point me to what exact gaskets I need and who makes the best for the buck brand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Or you can pull your intakes and just weld it closed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Weld what closed? Oil pump drive is aluminum, block is iron, you can weld aluminum to iron? You guys sure go to a lot of trouble. I just slipped a 1/16" thick O-ring over the head of mine, added a little black RTV, tightened the clamp, let it set overnight, and called it done. That was 2-1/2yrs ago. No leaks so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Weld what closed?Oil pump drive is aluminum, block is iron, you can weld aluminum to iron? Put a steel plate over the opening/hole and weld it closed. It isn't rocket science. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Put a steel plate over the opening/hole and weld it closed. It isn't rocket science. How are you proposing to drive the oil pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Put a steel plate over the opening/hole and weld it closed. It isn't rocket science. How are you proposing to drive the oil pump? No you put the plate right where the cover is, below the head tab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daggar Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 This is my weekend project this weekend and the alt while I'm at it. I'll do the rtv fix this time but the next time the belt needs to be done I will do it right. This Sunday I saw for sure that it was that blasted o-ring leak cause I was stripping down the car for repairs. So this weekend upper and lower intake gaskets (again) o-ring rtv fix, alt and new serp belt and I need to order the M27 Alt sheild that broke from when the old lady ran me off the road last time. I thought they would have replaced it but somone missed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 No you put the plate right where the cover is, below the head tab. I have no idea what you're talking about. You take oil pump drive out, your oil pump doesn't work. What would you be welding closed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted April 5, 2005 Report Share Posted April 5, 2005 they mean you hold it down and sealed by affixed a piece of metal atop the cover on the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.