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Diesel Oil in a gas engine


rshissler

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I was told today that u can use a diesel oil in a gas engine if ur runnin no cat?? Is this ture. tehy told me that it helps protect the engine alot better then regular oil

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I was told today that u can use a diesel oil in a gas engine if ur runnin no cat?? Is this ture. tehy told me that it helps protect the engine alot better then regular oil

 

translation:

 

"I was told today that you can use diesel oil in a gas engine, only if you aren't running with a cat. Is this true? They told me it helps protect the engine alot better than regular oil"

 

 

 

And the short answer is NO. I beleive it's alot thicker than "regular" engine oil, but most of the people here are running either 5w or 10w30. I guess being able to get 200+k out of these engines just isn't enough.. :P

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If you're talking 15W40, I guess it wouldn't hurt to run it in the summer. Depending on how cold it gets there in the winter it would probably be a good idea to switch over to a lighter weight to save on the motor on cold starts.

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Disel oil has alot of different attitives added to the oil which is probably were for the different enviornment in a diesel engine.

And honestly, it should matter if you have a cat or not. The only reason it would matter is if your engine is burning oil badly due to blow by or some other type of burning. In this case a thicker oil like 15W40 or so would help with that condition, and since the engine is hurtin anyway it's not gonna makea whole lota difference.

Although you'll never see me putting diesel engine oil into my Lumina.

 

Speaking of whicg, I'm changing my oil today and getting it ready for summer - 10W30, yay!

 

- Jeff L.

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The main difference with diesel oil is it is cleaner, has less sulfer in it and has anti foaming agents added, however as it was pointed out most of it is 15W40 and so will void waranty and is way to thick for cold weather use. Im not sure why it would be bad for a catalytic converter as lots of diesel cars have cats as well.

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I have run 15W40 in the Lumina it is just thick oil and gives you better oil pressure because it is so thick. I was impartial and saw no advantage except you could tell you had thick oil in the crankcase under acceleration. just my 0.02

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I run Esso XD-3 0W30 which is a diesel-engine-rated (CI-4) oil. It is a very cheap, yet very good synthetic that costs around $3.75/L here in Canada, a mere fraction of what you pay for other brand-name synthetic oils. Used Oil Analysis has shown that it can easily do 25,000-40,000 miles without any difficulty in the 3.1/3100/3400 engines.

 

Yes, it is true that the ZDDP levels will be higher, but since you leave the oil in for a longer period of time (15k-25k miles, if not longer), the overall cat exposure to pollutants is from the oil is less than using a low phosphorous oil on a 3000 mile oil change schedule.

 

Don't be fooled by the '0W30' viscosity either. '0W' means the oil flows very well in cold weather and cold starts, while the '30' part means it behaves like a SAE 30 viscosity oil when the car is warmed up and running. Since most wear occurs at startup, using a 0W30 oil can significantly reduce wear as opposed to running something like 15W40 which takes longer to be pumped into the valvetrain to lubricate.

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so it wouldn't hurt the car or truck and it wouldn't really do anything, right?? I was told to try this in my I6 300 engine in the bronco i just got...

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so it wouldn't hurt the car or truck and it wouldn't really do anything, right?? I was told to try this in my I6 300 engine in the bronco i just got...

 

The argument postulated earlier was that the additives in heavy duty diesel engine oil might be slightly harmful to catalytic converters and oxygen sensors.

 

I believe this is true, but only if you change your oil excessively. If you run to the 7500 miles as recommended in your owners manual, or longer, there will not be any loss of catalytic converter or oxygen sensor life.

 

Heavy duty diesel engine oils have their advantages as well. They can withstand longer drain intervals (so you change your oil less often, for example, with a good synthetic diesel engine oil 25k miles isn't an unreasonable interval). They have higher levels of additives which clean engines' internals better than cheap 'passenger car' motor oil. Plus they often cost less.

 

A good site to check out on tribology-related topics from a practical, personal automotive point of view is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com . You will get a significant number of redneck opinions there, but there are some fairly talented Professional Engineers and professional tribologists there with many years of industry experience who give very useful advice.

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I ran 15-40 rotella T in my old 84 crown vic because I was To lazy to fix a leaky gasket. it worked great...

 

how ever I would not Use it in a car that gets Started and stopped all the time because it takes a bit more to build oil pressure but once its there its good to go...

 

you can run with or with out a cat....some trucks have cats and some dont been that way for years.

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IT wouldn't hurt to do it one time or something like that. But over time it will cause your engine to gum up. Gas burner engine oils have cleaners and whatnot in them to help keep the gum down. It isn't a good thing. Although they are quite good oils.

 

lata

CHRIS

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riceca, actually quite the opposite, diesel engine oils are designed to deal with much harsher environments than traditional petrol-engine oils. If anything, diesel engine oil will turn dark quite quickly as it is cleaning and suspending the crap and gunk left behind by your previous oil.

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You do NOT need a high viscity oil in today's modern gasoline engines......hell, Chrylser has switched to 5W-20 for a lot of their newer engines.

 

 

Can anyone give me a single honest reason why they would want to run a heavy oil in a modern nonghetto engine?

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riceca, actually quite the opposite, diesel engine oils are designed to deal with much harsher environments than traditional petrol-engine oils. If anything, diesel engine oil will turn dark quite quickly as it is cleaning and suspending the crap and gunk left behind by your previous oil.

 

Maybe in Canada :twisted: :twisted: Just kidding. I was under the impression that Diesel oils dont have the detergents in them that keeps gas burners clean.

 

lata

CHRIS

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The only reason I would run heavier weight oil was if the engine was on its last legs anyways and it was already leaking like a siv. I used to put HD-50 in my Mercury Grand Marquis cause it would leak 10w-40 at an astonishing rate. I always let the car warm up after I did this though. Kept the motor going long enough for me to sell the junker.

 

I would never recommend putting a heavy oil in a newer engine. just gonna wipe out the bearings and fuck the motor up. If its leaking oil somewhere, fix it. Its like rather then stiching up the wound and fixing it, your putting a dirty bandaid on it and letting it get infected and eventually killing the motor.

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I run Schaeffer's 15w-40 in all three of my vehicles (1993 GP 3.1, 1994 K1500 Suburban 5.7, and also in my 1995 K2500HD truck with the 6.5 turbo diesel) as recommended by my Schaeffer dealer. I run semi-synthetic 7000 (synthetic blend with moly). The GP turns over a little stiff on a -10 deg. F morning, but nothing I get concerned about.

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I would never recommend putting a heavy oil in a newer engine. just gonna wipe out the bearings and fuck the motor up.

 

i understood that the thicker oild tends to "stay" in the bearings better..... are

you saying it would be to much pressure on the bearings???

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