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Would these subs handle my amp??


rshissler

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I would spend a little more money on some subs with a bit more meat on them. Those have tiny magnets I don't think you'll be too happy with them (but what do I know).

 

Anyways, it should be fine just don't have the gain on the amp set too high.

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  • 5 weeks later...
Save yourself the money and don't get the crappy subwoofers that you have listed above.

 

believe it or not, I have heard the "xsites" and they actually sound damn good....I couldn't believe it

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Save yourself the money and don't get the crappy subwoofers that you have listed above.

 

believe it or not, I have heard the "xsites" and they actually sound damn good....I couldn't believe it

 

that is because they are rebadged Audiobahns ...

 

at high volume they distort like a mother chucker.... just like mr bahns.

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Get MMATS I dont' have a pair my self nut at every bass off I have ever been to, MMATS where the clear leader in car audio. Also you subs are 4 ohm not 8 ohm. And you get what you pay for. Don't go cheap.

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the subs each are 50 - 150 watts RMS

Heres the link http://www.crutchfield.com/S-iQxx55UYXFp/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67700&I=575RFZ3812

My amp is a Nitro, 150W x 2 ch at 2Ohms, 100 x 2 ch at 4 Ohms, and 300 x 1 ch bridged.

 

They are 8 ohm subs so wire the subs in parallel and bridge the amp. You will get 150W to each speaker.

 

I would go with a single JL audio 12. It will hit pretty hard with 300 W behind it. They are DVC so get the DVC 2 ohm, wire it in series ( 4 ohms) and you are set. It will save you space due to (smaller box than 1 12's) and they are <$150 for a 12W3.

 

Glock

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MMATS are very good.

 

 

it doesnt matter what brand you buy, if you pay 50 bucks a sub, Expect a 50 dollar subwoofer.

 

You get what you pay for, Period.

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