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Not Another Question About Keyless Entry? Yes, I'am afraid


dhs1223

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:oops: Sorry that this is yet another question about Keyless Entry. :oops: However it should hopefully be an easy answer for the person who knows.

 

TRW Systems

 

:?: How important is it for the FCC ID on the key fob to match the FCC ID number on the receiver unit??? :?:

 

I know that there are 2 different receiver units. A single plug unit and a double plug unit.

 

I just want to know if the earlier key fobs work with the later receivers from TRW. I have a 1995 Cutlass VERT with the 2 plug receiver. I also have a spare receiver box that came out of a 95 Cutlass Vert. The FCC ID on the spare receiver is ABO0116R. I haven't got close enough to the unit in the car to see if it is the same. I want to know if the key fob has to match or not.

 

When I bought the car, it did not come with key fobs. I have purchased

a used key fob and the FCC ID does not match.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I thank you in advance for your assistance and patience.

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Thanks Jeremy

 

If I can't get my keyless entry to work, then I guess it is one of two things

 

1. Fob doesn't work

 

2. Receiver box doesn't work.

 

Any advise on how to check this out.

 

Thanks

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When you ground the programming wire, all the lock and truck solenoids should activate (this also erases the receiver, so be prepared to press the button on your remote at this time to teach it to the receiver).

 

If you ground that wire and all is silent, the receiver is no good.

If you ground the wire and the solenoids activate, press the button on the remote and they should activate again. If not, try new batteries in the transmitter and try again. If still no joy, try a different transmitter - they're $10 or less on Ebay and you ought to have a spare anyway. If neither transmitter works, your receiver is probably bad.

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Thank you Shawn

 

When I ground the programming wire, all of the lock and trunk solenoids do activate. Based on what you have said, the receiver should be functional.

 

I will have another go at this. Perhaps I am just not patient enough - see my question below.

 

Another quick question - when I am trying to teach the receiver to acknowledge the transmitter, how long should I expect to hold the transmitter button for it to "learn" the new signal? and at what point do I give up on the transmitter.

 

Thanks again

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The receiver should acknowledge the button press almost immediately.

If you press the button and nothing happens, check the batteries and/or try a different transmitter.

 

Receivers can still be bad, but still properly enter program mode. When that happens, that just means a different part of the receiver has bad solder joints than one that's completely dead.

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Thanks again Shawn

 

I should have a chance this weekend to try it out.

 

Since I have a spare receiver that I recently pulled from another car, I will try again and switch out the receiver if necessary.

 

I will let you know how I make out.

 

Another quick question - is it difficult to re-solder the receiver??

 

Thanks

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If you're good at soldering, it's not difficult, just time consuming.

It should be enough to dab some flux on each solder joint, and then touch the iron to it. The joint should become shiny and look fluid. That should be good enough. You can add a little solder if you think it needs it.

Anyway, the worst part I found was cleaning off the rubbery clear coating from the circuit board. I used lacquer thinner, and I think in the past I've also used some goopy paint stripper. I think the paint stripper may have actually worked better.

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Just a little off the side.. Are ALL GM RKE boxes the same? Because there is a 92-? Grand AM with a box that says TRW in the trunk.. If memory serves, that was also the better of the 2 boxes available in Ws.. Sorry to hijack..

 

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

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I don't know, I'd check pinouts and wire colors before trying it.

 

If you're wanting to add this to a Lumina that never had it, then I bet you can make it work.

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Does anyone have a general guide on how to remove the back seats to access the reciever. Mine works every once in a while but not all the time. I wanna get in that bitch and do some soldering so that it actually works when i press the buttons, not tricking it into working.

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Well, I don't know why it didn't work the first time I tried, but all is good now and I finally have my keyless entry working.

 

Only downside is that I spent a few bucks buying another (used) receiver box, but I am sure I will find someone who needs one, or I can always try to get rid of it on ebay.

 

Thanks to Jeremy and Shawn for the help and advise.

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No, even in W-bodies there are at least 2 different boxes.

In the gen 1's, they're all TRW.

Mine 1990 did not originally have a TRW box. It was made by Wicks Manufacturing.

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That would make sense because I always thought that TRW was the "original" manufacturer of RKE products. However, I'm looking at the box right now and the only identification is the "Wicks Mfg" label. I suppose its possible the box is not the original one....

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