MoTox8410 Posted March 24, 2005 Author Report Posted March 24, 2005 That is what we have been telling you-IT IS USELESS. /quote] WHY-EXPLANATION Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted March 24, 2005 Report Posted March 24, 2005 Why is ram air useless? Because even if you could manage to get some forced air, the computer still has to deal with it, and it's not gonna adjust much (if at all) to gain any real HP. It is NOT gonna have any kind of effect AT ALL like a turbo or supercharger. All you will gain will be cold air, the same as with a FWI or CAI, except you will have extra tubes wasting space in the engine bay. Hell, with an open type filter like a WAI you are still getting the ram air effect, cause air gets forced under the car and into the engine bay, that's the way our cars are designed. Quote
Brian P Posted March 24, 2005 Report Posted March 24, 2005 Two options: Lock the thread Delete all the useless shit and start over. Anyone else posting non-constructive posts after that will be locked away for a few weeks. I'll leave it to the thread originator to decide. Quote
MoTox8410 Posted March 24, 2005 Author Report Posted March 24, 2005 guess im not done.....if anyone has anything constructive to state i would appreciate your thoughts thanks C-BAD..... still wondering who or how to put a cone filter in the stock air box.... and most the questions in my first post... Quote
Schudini Posted March 24, 2005 Report Posted March 24, 2005 Why put a cone filter in the stock box, just swap out the filter for a Air Hog or K&N (I forgot the stock #) then just do like drag racers do and remove the headlight in front of the airbox intake. Might use a little screen in front of the intake to keep out leaves and junk. Also, this is meant as a constructive post. Quote
Brian P Posted March 24, 2005 Report Posted March 24, 2005 No decent size cone wil fit "inside" the airbox. The best you could do is keep the lower half of the box in place. That's really the best shielding you can do without building something. Quote
MoTox8410 Posted March 24, 2005 Author Report Posted March 24, 2005 thats what i figured i do was put in a K&N drop in but i wanted to consider the cone Quote
sonyman87 Posted March 24, 2005 Report Posted March 24, 2005 thats what i figured i do was put in a K&N drop in but i wanted to consider the cone useing a dropin will be just fine. Unless you replace the stock hoseing after the filter there is little or no reason to get a cone filter. Quote
Brian P Posted March 24, 2005 Report Posted March 24, 2005 Speaking from usage, a dropin won't do anything in the way of performance. I have it simply for the re-useable factor, since when I use paper filters, I have to change it once every couple months. Quote
MoTox8410 Posted March 24, 2005 Author Report Posted March 24, 2005 it might help though if i ran the hose to the airdam im sure the k&N flow somwhat better Quote
GTPrix Posted March 25, 2005 Report Posted March 25, 2005 Another problem you would have with this setup is throttle lag. Since you are drawing air in from that low, combined with the fact you will have to "snake" the tubing to the desired location, you will have lag. In my opinion, the only true difference you will notice from the setup is sound. No real gains. Gains would be expected with a fwi, but that isn't an option for you, so do what you want. Drew Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted March 25, 2005 Report Posted March 25, 2005 Speaking from usage, a dropin won't do anything in the way of performance. I have it simply for the re-useable factor, since when I use paper filters, I have to change it once every couple months. Same here. Quote
MoTox8410 Posted March 25, 2005 Author Report Posted March 25, 2005 fwi stands for f?????warm intake and i looked at it closer today and its pretty straight down and curved towards the the air dam and this is why i asked about keeping the hole in the head light open it would still have alot of cold air though i only wonder if the air would actully blow out the headlight and making it harder yet for the pistons yo "pull" the air in Quote
Aaron Posted March 25, 2005 Report Posted March 25, 2005 fwi stands for f?????warm intake and i looked at it closer today and its pretty straight down and curved towards the the air dam and this is why i asked about keeping the hole in the head light open it would still have alot of cold air though i only wonder if the air would actully blow out the headlight and making it harder yet for the pistons yo "pull" the air in Its a filter dude... fenderwell intake Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted March 25, 2005 Report Posted March 25, 2005 I know, how about you chop a hole in your hood and put a big ass hood scoop! 8) Quote
RacerX Posted March 25, 2005 Report Posted March 25, 2005 Do not put holes in the airbox. One thing overlooked about the stock airbox and snorkel set-up is that it is a cold air intake, despite whatever shortcomings it has in airflow efficiency. Bottom line is you'll be sucking in hot air from the engine bay instead of cooler air from behind the headlight, thus screwing up your low rpm performance at low speeds for meager gains up top that won't come anywhere close to making up for it. Don't believe me? Remove the snorkel and see what happens. Also, the use of a cone filter laying in the airbox is a bad idea. Once again, your sucking in hot air from the engine bay. Yeah, it's sheilded on the bottom, but hot air rises, and you know where it's pulling the air from. This, too, presents a problem at low rpm/low speeds. You might also get some bog off the 1-2 upshift, as I did, since the intake system has been shortened and drastically reduces the burst forced induction effect caused by high rpm airspeed within the intake when dropping into the midrange. Short of a well though-out custom Cold Air Intake or FenderWell Intake, your best bet is to use a drop-in K&N and do some internal work to the stock airbox to improve intake velocity. Believe it or not, there some corners that can be smoothed and beveled for good effect accross a wide rpm range. The seat of the pants difference might not impress, but retaining low speed drivability is a good thing. Gaining 10-15 hp at high rpm and sacrificing the torque curve below could actually leave you with a slower car, thus the power is under the curve, not in the peak. And a LQ1/auto needs all it can get under the curve. So I suggest instead of trying to squeaze every bit of performance from the intake, you should consider a wide range of mods, starting with a good high-flowing cat-back exhaust sytem that won't blow your low rpm performance and an underdrive pulley. Quote
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