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Manual Transmision Tech.


White93z34

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ok, i need educated. very shortly a few friends and i are swaping from a 2.2/auto to a 3.1/5 speed in his 1994 cavalier

 

now as far as i can figgure out the trans that we are puting is is the "NVG T550" 5 speed and NOT the 282. with that said i need to learn about the general workings of manual transmisions.

 

what is a throwout bearing, pressure plate, and all that good stuff that consists of the clutch area. since we are replaceing the clutch before the engine goes in the car. whats a slave cyl, master cy? etc. how do i change the oil in a manual and what fluid do i use to replace it? if i missed anything let me know.

 

EDIT: i'd asume this belongs in powertrain since all the info can apply to our cars too, but feel free to move it otherwise.

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Guest TurboSedan

now as far as i can figgure out the trans that we are puting is is the "NVG T550" 5 speed and NOT the 282.

 

does the transmission have a V6 bellhousing?

 

anyways i'd post a longer reply but i'm short on time right now!

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the whole powertrain is comeing out of a 94' sunbird, so i'm not very concerned with compatability, since i prety much know it will work.

 

looking foreward to that longer reply :P

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what is a throwout bearing, pressure plate, and all that good stuff that consists of the clutch area. since we are replaceing the clutch before the engine goes in the car. whats a slave cyl, master cy? etc. how do i change the oil in a manual and what fluid do i use to replace it? if i missed anything let me know.

 

- Pressure plate: It bolts to the flywheel. They clutch disk is located between the pressure plate and the flywheel. The pressure plate is what causes the clutch to "grip". The pressure plate is spring loaded and it is always trying to push the clutch disk against the flywheel .

 

- Throwout Bearing: This is a bearing which is between the pressure plate and the clutch fork. When when clutch pedal is pushed the fork is moved towards the pressure plate (push type clutch systems). The throwout bearing allows the fork pressure to go to the pressure plate (which is rotating).

 

- Clutch Master Cylinder: When you push on the clutch pedal a rod pushes in on the pistion in the cylinder. This pushes fluid out of the master cylinder.

 

- Clutch Slave Cylinder: The fluid from the Clutch Master Cylinder runs through a hose and goes here. The fluid pushes on the piston inside the cylinder and in turn pushes a rod which is connected to the piston. The rod then pushes on the Clutch fork, which pushes the throwout bearing against the pressure plate and releases the pressure on the cutlch disk, which allows the clutch disk to spin freely.

 

To change the fluid on a manual transmission: There are two plugs on the transmission. One on top and one on the bottom. To drain the fluid take out the bottom plug and the top plug (allows air in to help it drain faster). once all the fluid is out put the bottom plug back in and fill trans to the full mark on the dipstick on the bottom of the top plug.

 

A Dealer should know what fluid goes into the transmission. It probably takes GM Syncromesh fluid ($10 a quart)

 

Hope this helps.

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Guest TurboSedan

i think Sean nailed it :) i just wanted to add:

 

- get the flywheel resurfaced no matter what. it usually only costs $15

 

- when you install the new clutch, spray down the pressure plate, disc, and flywheel really good with Brakleen just before installation. usually new pressure plates have an oily residue on them so they don't rust before they are sold.

 

- a new clutch kit (PP & disc) will come with a new TO bearing (aka release bearing), a small packet of spline grease and the clutch alignment tool. the TO bearing only goes on one way (if it's like a 282 anyway) and it should come with a little anti-sieze already applied. installing a clutch is very easy - bolt the flywheel to the crank, slip the clutch alignment tool through the disc & the hole in the PP (so the disc is between the PP and flywheel) and then tighten down the PP bolts evenly while you 'jiggle' the alignment tool around making sure the disc is centered. after you reach the torque spec, pull the alignment tool out and you're done.

 

- use red loc-tite on the flywheel-to-crank bolts as well as the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. i forget the torque spec for the flywheel-to-crank bolts at the moment, but the torque spec for the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts is only 21ft/lbs (yes only 21 ft/lbs, no tighter than that). and of course, tighten all bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern so you don't warp the disc or anything.

 

- when you install the transmission to then engine, MAKE SURE the TO bearing stays in place!

 

good luck!

 

btw wouldn't a 3.1/5-speed Sunbird have an HM-282?

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If I'm not mistaken, isn't the New Venture Gear T550 and Getrag 282 the same thing?

 

I know all J and L 2.8/3.1s recieved the Getrag 282........heres the gearing....

 

1st 3.50

2nd 2.05

3rd 1.38

4th 0.94

5th 0.72

FDR 3.61

 

Compared to the W 2.8/3.1 gearing.....

 

1st 3.77

2nd 2.19

3rd 1.38

4th 1.03

5th 0.81

FDR 3.61

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Guest TurboSedan
If I'm not mistaken, isn't the New Venture Gear T550 and Getrag 282 the same thing?

 

damn! how many monikers does that transmission have?!? Getrag 282, HM-282, Muncie 282, 5TM40, and now New Venture Gear T550?!

 

btw i'm diggin those 1st and 2nd gear ratios the L/J body 282s have...and more overdrive too! the W-body 282 1st gear is wayyy too steep IMO - hell i could burn mad rubber in 1st with my NA 3.1....and now i'm turbo'd :shock: there would also be less RPM drop from 1st-to-2nd with the J/L 282. 3rd gear is the same, but the J/L 282 has 6% overdrive in 4th and 28% overdrive in 5th! sounds like i'd have more traction in 1st & 2nd gear AND more MPG on the highway with the J/L 282. 4th gear would also last longer than 100mph (i shift from 4th-to-5th at about 100mph with my W-body 282). and going from a 19% overdriven 5th to a 28% overdriven 5th gear would give you a higher possible MPH 8)

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Guest TurboSedan
Joshua......you need 245/50/16s. ;)

 

well i don't want to hijack this thread lol but.... i would go with that size if i had a GTP with B4U gfx. the current 225s are perfectly flush with the body so i wouldn't want to go any wider because they would probably stick out. and i'm going to be lowering the car even more with Intrax front springs and a Birchmount rear lowering leaf later. i'm afraid i'd get rubbing with 245s besides them sticking out.

 

sorry about the hijack White93z34 lol, and good luck with the swap. keep us updated.

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