Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, any good way of checking them? Do they make any sounds when they are going bad? I know the balljoints are bad, and I will be replacing them next week while on spring break. But... if I'm working on my suspension, I might as well replace them if they are bad too. Also, if they are bad, how do I go about replacing those as well?

Posted

If you mark the spot where the old one screws on, you might not "need" an alignment, I think. Easy way to check them is jack the car up grab the wheel, if it has side to side play, they're probably bad. Up and down play is balljoints

Posted

Ok, i'll put my car up on the jack tomorrow and check it out.

 

They don't sound all that hard to replace. How long should i expect them to take?

Posted

Thats not bad at all. I guess if I have any questions I can always ask you.

Posted

outter tie rods are a simple job, just a bitch if they're rusted on tight. If you get a Haynes/Chiltons manual they are good for the pictures and tips.

Posted

I'm gonna chime in and say definitely go with the MOOG's. I had a set put on the Loomie last year when I discovered one of the non-greasable stock outer tie rods rusted and almost falling apart. I attempted to get them off myself, but they were rusted on there pretty good, so I took it to a shop to have them replaced (I bought the MOOG's from carparts.com.)

 

Even if you mark the spot where the old tie rod sat on the shaft, your alignment will still be off. Marking the spot will get you close enough to where you probably won't notice how far off the alignment is, but I wouldn't drive around like that for very long. It'll at least be enough to get you to the shop to get 'er aligned...

Posted

Using that balljoint removal tool makes disconnecting the outer tierod much easier too. You can also use a pitman arm puller. It should be easier to pull a very rusted outer tierod with a screw type puller than a pickle fork.

Posted

I don't like to do the pickle fork method....its bad for balljoints, granted, you are replacing them, but there are times you need to remove the balljoint when you aren't replacing them.

 

I take my small ballpen and hold it against the housing of whatever shaft I'm trying to remove. Then, hit the ballpen with my 3 lb hammer. 5-6 good soild hits, and it should be loose enough you can remove it by hand or with a pry bar.

Posted

Well... just came in from outside. Took some nice pictures.

 

Decided to just put them on cardomain. Anyways, pictures:

 

373899_158_full.jpg

 

373899_159_full.jpg

 

373899_160_full.jpg

 

373899_161_full.jpg

 

373899_162_full.jpg

 

373899_163_full.jpg

Posted

So, anyone got some useful PN's for me? I allready have the balljoints, there greaseable.

Posted

!!!!!!!!!!!! nice sway bar! Jesus christ. Thats easy to fix though, esp with teh ball joint out so the control arm will move somewhat.

Posted
!!!!!!!!!!!! nice sway bar! Jesus christ. Thats easy to fix though, esp with teh ball joint out so the control arm will move somewhat.

 

I thought you guys would like that!! Is there a part number for that?

Posted

Bump... I won't be able to make it to my computer this weekend. And, I'm heading out of town early sunday, getting back wednesday. Thursday I plan on picking up the parts and working on the car.

Posted

Hey, Slick, that sway bar mount looks like it poly, so you should get another poly one to replace it. FWIW: I know josh replaced the tierods and balljoints about 2 years ago. :wink:

Posted
Hey, Slick, that sway bar mount looks like it poly, so you should get another poly one to replace it. FWIW: I know josh replaced the tierods and balljoints about 2 years ago. :wink:

 

Yeah, he probably did, but there bad again.

 

Those brackets, do I just ask for swaybar end brackets?

Posted

Any tips on loosening that damn bolt on the bottom of the balljoint? It's the one with the cotter pin in it. BTW, hand tools in cold weather suck.

Posted
Any tips on loosening that damn bolt on the bottom of the balljoint? It's the one with the cotter pin in it. BTW, hand tools in cold weather suck.

 

Breaker bar, pipe around a wrench works great too. Did you try a hammer?

Posted
Any tips on loosening that damn bolt on the bottom of the balljoint? It's the one with the cotter pin in it. BTW, hand tools in cold weather suck.

 

Breaker bar, pipe around a wrench works great too. Did you try a hammer?

 

I put some PB Blaster on it in hopes of it eating away some of the grease and rust, but that didn't help. Tapped it with a hammer several times as well. I guess I need to pick up a pipe for a cheap breaker bar(hey, it works, just don't have one here at college yet).

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
umm sorry for being dumb but is that the tierod

 

Yes. And I still have not gotten around to replacing them yet.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...