Jump to content

HELP ! ICM and Coil Problem * UPDATE * Timing belt


Jamz

Recommended Posts

I first started my car with my remote starter , with ho problem the car started normally . But in the car , i noticed that the idle was fluctuating a lil bit more than usual , and after , i tried to put the car into reverse and back up , but the car stalled . I restarted it , put it into drive , and make it back to the sideway , but when i pressed the gas , thre was not much power , like i need to push the pedal really far to get the car go forward . I pop up the hood , and the engine was shaking more than usual . I put the Rpm to 1500 - 2000 during 15 seconds and the engine was doing well , but when i released the throttle , the engine stalled and i never got it back on . What the fuck could it be ? I boosted my friend car last night , but the car was doing well after that anyway . My amp meter is at 3/4 , and everything works fines besides that stalling thing . I got prestone , at normal level , i got heat , and gas . wth? the car is not bruning any prestone at all , and not loosing some too ... i cant understand .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

idle relearn ? the car isnt even starting : | and thats a 3.4 DOHC .

 

Thats not that . i just checked : fire , on one cylinder , and there is fire . dunno if i got to check for other cylinders due to the 3 coils . The car STARTED the first time and died , and now it wont restart .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could be a bunch of things. Check to make sure you don't have any loose vacuum lines anywhere under the hood. To me it sounds like that could be it. Might also be a clogged fuel filter, or bad plugs, wires, coils, or maybe even a sensor. Its very hard to tell. Start with the simple/easiest things and go one at a time from there.

 

Sometimes its the most obvious thing but the last thing you'd expect.

 

YK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would be checking the spark on all cylinders first. You might have a coil that is firing just one, or none at all, or a bad Ignition Control Module. Verify spark, once you know you have spark on any and all cylinders you can rule out the crank sensor, and Ignition Control Module.

If you have full spark, I would then check fuel pressure, or at least make sure the pump is running. When you turn the key to run, you should hear the fuel pump wizzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz for about 2 seconds. If it's not, or you can't hear for sure, go pick up a fuel pressure guage. I'm not sure where the fuel pressure port is on a 3.4, probably on the fuel rail, I'd assume. Someone else can chime in if you can't find it, I haven't seen a 3.4 in about 2 years around here. (Not to start any of the previous arguements, but they probably ARE mostly in the J/Ys around here. :cry: )

EDIT: Oh yeah! Always check for spark before fuel. We started an Explorer on fire at work one time doing it the opposite way :lol: Didn't hurt anything, just burnt the fuel that was sprayed, and by then we got an extinguisher.

Good luck.

As expected, tell us what you find.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool tnx Bossman429 , i started to look the same way than you told me . Tomorrow , i ll star and check fire on all cylinders . My idea is that : one coil is fried , so only 2 of them is workin makein the engine running on 4 cylinder , witch cause the shakin , and that loss of power i noticed . Then it stalled , because all the unburned fuel has been accumulated in the combustion chamber . Now , i ll check fire on all the cylinder , and i am sure at 85% that i ll foudn no spark on 2 of them .

 

 

I hope this is only a coil , those things are easy to change .

 

sorry if there is a typo or 2 cause i just drank some beer , to forget that my car isnt owrkin ... and for some other reason too

 

 

damn btw , just owned a 1992 Mazda protege 5 speed and a 2002 Echo 5 speed with the 4 speed auto Mazda proitege 2000 . ( parents car ) 1.5 DOHC 105 hp of fury !!! :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wait, you said you put in a remote starter? problem solved

 

I don't know why, but it says in the GM upfitters manual that all warranties are void if a remote starter is installed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as i found out, i need a new ICM and it will stall while idling or going slower than i'd say 20mph. autozone here has one for $80.99, vs a shop i had the car diagnosed, $165.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i changed only the coil pack i suspected to be fried , to found that i need to change the ICM . Now that bitch is at a very very ( very ) bad place . do i need to remove the starter ? i just dont know it seems that there is 3 bolts keepin it there , am i right ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no need to remove the starter. The only thing it thats its a tight squeez on the bottem bolt on the coil pack to the far left. when i done mine i loosend the bolt ontop of the started and moved that wire out of the way(you will see what one im talking about) and there ya go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just unhook the negative battery cable before you do this, because otherwise you'll be a moron like me and drop the ICM/coilpacks down on the starter terminals and a huge SNAPSPARK will scare the shit out of you. That had to happen to me at least 5 times in PA when working on the FrankenPrix with Chris. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

all 60* coils and ICMs are interchangeable, and are the same except (and this is hearsay, i can't back it up) for the 3400, it supposedly delivers a hotter spark with its factory coils and icm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest TurboSedan

not trying to sound like an asshole here at all so don't take this the wrong way! BUT - please try to be more descriptive with your subject titles. you WILL get more views and that = more help with your problems. i'm not singling Jamz out here but i am using this thread as an example. it will also help the search function become more useable.

 

that being said, good luck with your problem :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i know tnx for notice . I though about it , but i forgot . lol .

 

Btw , they gave me a 1988 Berretta 2.8 ICM and one connector seems to dont fit ... well ill see that tomorrow , i ll try to get that bitch relocated .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well going for another round today

 

 

I will first : make my ICM wires Longer so i can test the other ICM without removing the first one . Then i ll change it .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ICM replaced , i got fire to all cylinders , but engine will not start . WTH ???

 

 

I towed it to my mech , i ll check this out tomorrow . Tired of all this shit . He said taht this can be the timing belt , witch tajke 4.6 hours to do . That sucks . Or maybe the cylinders are so full of unburned fuel , that there is no compression and nothing happening . Will see tomorrow

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok now i got some probs . The Timing Belt is gone . Dunno why the coils and the belt failed at the same time , but i got no choice i got to fix it .

 

The promblem is : The carnk turned , but not the cams , i need to re-time the engine . At the garage , they said that i need a special tools to retime the cams . Do i have another choice ? is there something to do to retime wihout this special tool ?

 

 

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...