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Hood Vents


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Posted
No it would not work. That is an air release, not an inlet. Doing so would disrupt underhood airflow, and not provide any benefits. You'd be best off just running a true cold air intake.

 

granted the air may be warmer...but why wouldnt it work? ...cuz it would!! intake is a vacuum and will take whatever free air it can get. instead of using the louver for the "super engine bay temp reducer", it can be used for air. ive seen it done on six or so z-34s with no issues.

Posted

It will work, I should have said that. It will work and it will give some power. But it is not practical. Also notice what is right beneath that air vent, the frame braces, the cruise control, and a bunch of other stuff. You'd have to move and eliminate all of this stuff. You'd be better off relocating your battery, and just running a real CAI. Hell, just run a WAI and spend the saved money on a chip.

 

A intake isn't a big mod. The most you will ever see is 10-15hp. You might as well let your mind run big, think redoing the intake manifold. The intake is a small mod, and should not be the topic of more than 1 thread on a forum.

Posted
It will work, I should have said that. It will work and it will give some power. But it is not practical. Also notice what is right beneath that air vent, the frame braces, the cruise control, and a bunch of other stuff. You'd have to move and eliminate all of this stuff. You'd be better off relocating your battery, and just running a real CAI. Hell, just run a WAI and spend the saved money on a chip.

 

A intake isn't a big mod. The most you will ever see is 10-15hp. You might as well let your mind run big, think redoing the intake manifold. The intake is a small mod, and should not be the topic of more than 1 thread on a forum.

 

 

:werd:

 

 

You should just run a CAI. It would be better and easier than all those other ideas.

Posted
Hell, just run a WAI and spend the saved money on a chip.

 

 

got a WAI and a FFP chip already

Posted

Then get a fenderwell...or do somehting else, I don't care. I'm just saying that it isn't worth the time and effort, especially when it will affect your cars ability to release heat form under the hood.

Posted

It just seems that with the drip pan still installed the amount of heat that would leave the engine bay seems minimal.....ah well.....we'll see what happens

Posted

i would never remove the dripans because it would just drip on your fuse panel on the drivers side when it gets wet or rains.

 

its just pointless to do that.

Posted

Well at the track i remove the pans, and if i fabbed something up at least 1 pan would come out, and besides the fuse panel is on the pass. side of the engine bay. But it's not gonna happen anyhow. My original idea is gonna be better. As i said stock car ducts in the front valance set back ducted to the filter and intake.

Posted
Well at the track i remove the pans, and if i fabbed something up at least 1 pan would come out, and besides the fuse panel is on the pass. side of the engine bay. But it's not gonna happen anyhow. My original idea is gonna be better. As i said stock car ducts in the front valance set back ducted to the filter and intake.

 

say what?

 

the fuse panel is def. on the driver side of the car???

 

the passengers side is the coolent over flow

 

(i'm just saying because you profile says 91 z34)

 

that is all in account unless you moved your fuse panel.

Posted

It's def. on the pass side......next to the brace behind the overflow....take a look

 

373432_22_full.jpg

Posted

Ok, aerodynamics lesson...

 

Leuvors: They do keep under-hood temperatures down, especially at speed. The reason your friend's OBDII reader that reads coolant temperature showed nothing diffrerent open and closed, is because it's measuring coolant temperature IN THE ENGINE! Last I checked, the engine has a thermostat, which keeps the coolant at a relitively constant temperature...

 

Anyway, the reason they work (and the reason they are a sub-optimal place to have a CAI), is because they are located in a very low-pressure (like less than atmospheric) location... air is at high pressure at the front of the car and at the windshield. It is at low pressure in the middle of the hood (front to back) and pretty much anywhere past the windshield. The only reason the interheater vent works on Subarus is that it sticks up and grabs air (and it's farther back)... if it was flat to the hood, it would simply flow the other direction.

 

They also improve the aerodynamics (albeit only slightly) of the car by adding allowing air to flow through the rad and up through the hood (read "wing"), you eliminate some of the lift created by the relitively flat hood. As a side note, the 70's corvettes, with no leuvors and all the cool curves on the front end, had approximately 400lbs of LIFT on the front end at 80 or 90mph (I don't remember which).

 

My $.02

 

Mike

Posted
I've never replaced the baffles on my Z34 in the winter, and so far over 4 years with no problems.

 

wow! that's too daring for me. i know it pry doesn't hurt anything but i don't want to take that chance and plus your engine bay gets dirtier than normal with them out

Posted

nascar intake duct? you mean 'dryer exhaust hose'

at 17 big ones thats the cheapest NASCAR part I've ever heard of

who sponsors it? Tide?

 

 

lol j/k

Posted
nascar intake duct? you mean 'dryer exhaust hose'

 

 

 

 

 

No not the air vents in the back. The make ducts about 2" high by about 8-10" long. Tapered back to a 2-3" hose. Which would run to the intake. They mount usually under the bumper facing down. A local stock car company "Bicknell" sells them. The one i was looking at is $17 they make a larger one for i believe $25. When i get i'll post pics.

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