MoTox8410 Posted February 14, 2005 Report Share Posted February 14, 2005 what is a safe voltage drop for when your subs hit or normal voltage drop??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoTox8410 Posted February 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 any ideas???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 I'm guessing nothing more then 12volts. I think the computer needs 10?volts to properly run the engine correctly, but since everything is 12volt I'd say 12volt - 14volts is safe.. Just a shot in the dark though, I know my friends Cavalier dimms everywhere when the subs hit, to the point where headlights dim noticeably not to mention the dash lights, HU Leds, etc.. - Jeff L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoroCorona Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 If it dims to anything lower then 10.5, you need a capacitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 A.. your battery is probably gone to shit B.. you may need a cap C.. your altinator maybe going out any of these points would cause your problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoTox8410 Posted February 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 well i was having my replacing my alternator and just wanted to be sure so i didnt blow another one <<<should a 800 watt AMP be to much on the stock alternator cuz about a week after i put in the subs and amp it blew completly i think that it was pobaly going below 10.5 volts cuz i got alll kinds of ses codes saying my MAP was off and EGR and tons of other electronic stuff has anyone had trouble with the stock alternator??? how many AMPS does a 800watt amp draw i believe there was a formula for it but i forget???also how many amps does the car generally draw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 first go to autozone and get a free battery test Amps = watts / volts volts = 14 watts = 800 ~57amps at 10.5volts its like 75 amps your stock altinator is probably rated at 105amps at full load. I would suggest investing in a compasitor. 1 farad would do nicely. for a while i was running 900watts on 4 subs with stock altinator and 1farad compasitor with no voltage issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoTox8410 Posted February 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 Sorry if you might think this should me in the car audio section seeing how its an 800 Max what might it draw at general listing levels or at a constant rate so how many amps does the car generally draw at any given time Also i was under the impression that capacitors are pointless>>> has anyone seen that capictors are definitlty effective ???? cuz i am not so sure i tend to listen to rap the most among other music but rap has alot of "contant" bass so i am looking for a Definite answer if i should get one or not thid is y i thought capacitors were uneffective http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24872&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JW Posted February 19, 2005 Report Share Posted February 19, 2005 caps are not inefective. if your lights dim you need one. they cannot however solve an excessive current draw situation. your alt needs to be able to keep up. the ratings on those alts are peak current outputs, they put out significantly less at idle. they also dont like to run at max draw for a long time. so you need a high output alt. too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strecker25 Posted February 19, 2005 Report Share Posted February 19, 2005 Cap= bandaid, stay away from them unless absolutely necessary (aka u have done the alt and big3 upgrade and still get dimming or v drops) I ran 1600w rms on my stock 105amp alt for a good 6 months before it toasted, but it was only a year old. I now have a new alt pending install, its rated at 160amp at 1800rpm but it actually puts out around 210a (80 at idle) get a new alt, mine was only 125shipped with a lifetime warranty, and upgrade your "big3" to 1/0 gauge wires, itll free up any voltage getting stuck in those tiny stock wires. 1:Alt to battery positive 2:Battery negative to chassis ground 3:Engine block to chassis ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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