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Damn 6 months later and already need new pads!?!?!?wtf


HokemBokem

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So me and my dad recently changed my front pads and rotors about 6 months back IIRC. I got raybestos pg plus pads for like 45 bucks. Well ive been hearing screeching recently on my front left tire. So I got the tire off and found it was the squeek bar on the brake pad. I cant believe they wore down so damn fast. Why do you guys think? Shitty pads :shrug:

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Geez... how hard are you on the brakes... realistically?

 

:lol: my dad got all serious and asked the same thing. I really am not that hard on them. Yea there are a lot of shitty drivers here and sometimes I have to slam the brakes but 90% of the time im pretty easy on the brakes.

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They're only supposed to last approx 15k (give or take depending on your driving habits.) I used to change pads on my wife's old Cavalier 3 times a year, so it's not out of the ordinary to be eating pads like that. Next time, make sure you lube up the slider bolts really good (I like to use anti-sieze compound myself.) If you want long pad life, get a set of ceramics. Be warned, though. They are a very hard composition and tend to warp the rotors, plus they don't stop the car as good as a set of organic pads (or as good as a set of semi- or carbon-metallics...)

 

PG Plusses are a good set of pads, and you'd be changing your pads alot sooner if you went with a cheaper brand...

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Probably needs new calipers. I was getting about 3-4 weeks out of my front pads on my STE (about 800-1k miles), but I replaced the front calipers and the pads are still good, only about 3k miles later, but thats still a lot better. Obviously my calipers were dragging.

 

Shawn

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did you check the rear brakes and make sure they're still good and working properly!?...its possible that the rears are shot or not properly adjusted and you're eating up the fronts because of it...i'd check all 4 when you get ready to replace the fronts next time...

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did you check the rear brakes and make sure they're still good and working properly!?...its possible that the rears are shot or not properly adjusted and you're eating up the fronts because of it...i'd check all 4 when you get ready to replace the fronts next time...

 

 

What he said.

 

I had those pads on my old '90 for about 10k and only wore down 1/4 way. When I junked that car, I transferred the pads + rotors to my '89, and when I junked the '89 they were still on there. So I gave it a total of about 30,000 miles and they weren't more than halfway worn. Awesome pads. Of course this is with properly working rears.

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Ceramic pads last longer and give you better stopping power than any other pad. Only down fall is you have to break them in properly. I f you do not follow the two day long break in process they will not work correctly. They will have bad stopping power and will warp your rotors.

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if the rears on worn down or not properly adjusted then most/all of your braking is coming from the front...which would wear the pads down much quicker...

 

do you have drums or disks in the rear!?...if they're disks, its usually good to put new pads on the rear evertime/every-other time you do the fronts...if they're drums, they'll last alot longer, but they could still be out of adjustment...

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Yeah, you have to spin the center part of the caliper piston in to compress it, if you don't you won't have room for the thicker new rear pads in there. There are special tools available, sometimes they work nice, sometimes they don't at all. I did a brake job on a 97ish taurus, and I couldn't hardly get them to budge. Went to my '89 Cutlass with siezed and rusty calipers and spun them in easy.

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I did a brake job on a 97ish taurus, and I couldn't hardly get them to budge.

 

 

:lol: ...i just did that last week @ work...same problem...didnt wanna go in...ended up loosening the bleeder and it was still a bitch, but i got it...

 

FWIW: if you have rear disks, you should set the e-brake once in a while to keep them adjusted up tight...

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The main problem with the rear calipers is the slides. The original one corrode like crazy and lock in place. Then the caliper can't work both pads, only the inner pad. The caliper piston can also seize or rust in place. If you have any issues with the calipers I would recommend gettting remanufactured ones. Most of the suppliers are using nice anodized slides now and they work a lot better. You do have to detatch the park brake cables from the calipers, but it's not really a big deal.

 

And yeah, if the rears are not working the fronts will wear out REALLY fast.

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I guess I will just grab my chilton, my dad, and my credit card and get this shit done in the next couple days :lol:

 

I already have the torx 60 bit and most of the tools I will need.

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