supreme_style21 Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 What determines a bad strut mount? I've got a right rear strut clunking around on EVERY bump. The strut doesn't appear to be leaking and the rear end is tight and firm (every guys' dream). How do you replace them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeorge Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 look inside the trunk and see if the strut is stinking thou if it is and not bolted down then its bad.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted February 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 look inside the trunk and see if the strut is stinking thou if it is and not bolted down then its bad.. :? Its that simple? Huh.. I might feel a little dumber in a few minutes when I walk out and look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeorge Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 lol......you might have to pull the carpet back...so it might not be that simple LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 i've always had a clunking noise......even when i replace everything.....even when i have the FFP's on there is still a noise thats been there for years......i migh be my spare tire....i'll have to check on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted February 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Everything is nice and tight. But it looks like they'd be fun to change with the 4 millimeters of working space they give you back there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 look inside the trunk and see if the strut is stinking thou if it is and not bolted down then its bad.. the bolts come up from the wheel well..... jack up the car and make sure they are tight......u have to take the weight off the bolts to make sure....(12 or 15mm socket IIRC) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeorge Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 look inside the trunk and see if the strut is stinking thou if it is and not bolted down then its bad.. the bolts come up from the wheel well..... jack up the car and make sure they are tight......u have to take the weight off the bolts to make sure....(12 or 15mm socket IIRC) yeah i forget somepeople dont have weight in there trunks for force it all the way up like in my cars ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 If it's a loud clunk, then the mount is on its way out for sure. The damn nut came off of my strut (most likely due to the mount being worn out BAD) and since there was no charge left in it, the piston dropped back down into the body of the strut. I can't find the damn nut anywhere in the trunk either! Finally got my new GR2's yesterday, and now I have to figure out some way to rig the "broken" strut so I can drive the car to the shop to get the new struts put in . It'll probably involve a pair of vice-grips unless there are some threads left on the end of the piston so I can put on another nut . FYI, I spent close to 4 bills at TireRack for all 4 struts, mounts, and boots (all KYB's, btw) plus shipping... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted February 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 If it's a loud clunk, then the mount is on its way out for sure. The damn nut came off of my strut (most likely due to the mount being worn out BAD) and since there was no charge left in it, the piston dropped back down into the body of the strut. I can't find the damn nut anywhere in the trunk either! Finally got my new GR2's yesterday, and now I have to figure out some way to rig the "broken" strut so I can drive the car to the shop to get the new struts put in . It'll probably involve a pair of vice-grips unless there are some threads left on the end of the piston so I can put on another nut . FYI, I spent close to 4 bills at TireRack for all 4 struts, mounts, and boots (all KYB's, btw) plus shipping... I don't know if I'd call it loud.. but its noticable. You'll know what I'm talking about when I say it sounds like our typical 'frozen winter clunk'... but its pushing 50 degrees and its still doing it, so I can't blame it on the cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Everything is nice and tight. But it looks like they'd be fun to change with the 4 millimeters of working space they give you back there. It's easy..... Way easier than it looks..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted February 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Well then I'm going to mark it up to bad struts. I assume these rear struts are fairly simple to change? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted February 13, 2005 Report Share Posted February 13, 2005 I assume these rear struts are fairly simple to change? Yes, go to http://www.FastFwdPerformance.com and go to the coil-overs link. It gives instructions on how to install the coil-overs.....and how to take the stock ones out.....Putting them back in is just reverse of taking them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannymik Posted February 13, 2005 Report Share Posted February 13, 2005 if you could handle DIY then I recommend it. A garage will ass rape you if they replace both rear struts and mounts...I had it done on my '95 Cutlass a yr ago and paid something aroung $400. They installed Monroe Sensa-trac or whatever there called. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted February 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2005 if you could handle DIY then I recommend it. A garage will ass rape you if they replace both rear struts and mounts...I had it done on my '95 Cutlass a yr ago and paid something aroung $400. They installed Monroe Sensa-trac or whatever there called. Oh if time permits, I'll most definately try to do it myself. Struts aren't a major issue, so I'll replace them next weekend myself. I'll only pay someone to do my work if it is an emergency. I can get 2 SensaTracs for $65... they seem to be a good shock. Thanks for the link Adam.. just what I need. What are the torque specs for everything I'll be removing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted February 13, 2005 Report Share Posted February 13, 2005 if you could handle DIY then I recommend it. A garage will ass rape you if they replace both rear struts and mounts...I had it done on my '95 Cutlass a yr ago and paid something aroung $400. They installed Monroe Sensa-trac or whatever there called. Oh if time permits, I'll most definately try to do it myself. Struts aren't a major issue, so I'll replace them next weekend myself. I'll only pay someone to do my work if it is an emergency. I can get 2 SensaTracs for $65... they seem to be a good shock. Thanks for the link Adam.. just what I need. What are the torque specs for everything I'll be removing? not sure what the torque specs are......i just made them tight. Maker sure u get the rear alligned at an allignment shop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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