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3.4 rebuild


Black5spdZ

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I want to do as much as possible but there is not much available my plans so far are to mill the heads, mild port and polish upper and lower intakes, gasket match, .040 over pistons, balance the lower end, 3 angle valve grind, and maybe port the exhaust manifolds. Is there any other performance parts or mods besides bolt ons that i should do while i am working on this? I am doing this to a pare motor so i am in no hurry to get it completed, i mainly drive the car in the winter for now anyway.

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no one makes headers do they?? What is the whole cam timing thing isnt it a few degrees on the exhaust cam? How much difference power wise from a 92 intake to a 96+. I have a 5spd

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Aaron, what size tubing did you use? Did you buy them pre-bent, then cut and welded, or did you have someone bend them up on a tube bender? Did you make your collector, or did you find one readily available? Head flanges, those were probably easy to make, but what material did you use?

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The primaries are 1 5/8" diameter by 30" equal length, using dual 3-1 collectors into dual 2.25" pipes. I bought the pipe pre bent, then cut and welded. It was a bit harder and more time consuming than this, but that is the idea. Headers By Ed supplied me with the header pipe and collectors. I used 3/8" mild steel for the flanges, plasma cut to slightly bigger than the ports.

 

For my Fiero set, they will be 1.75" by 30" equal length, collected into dual 2.5" pipes, which will run back. True dual 2.5" with only dual Magnaflow straight through mufflers.

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Those seem to be pretty nice dimensions. The way you designed the front header is kinda how I will probably go about doing mine. The rear will probably be a PITA. I'll probably make the crossover and do the rear one with the engine out, then go from there.

 

Any pictures of the rear header?

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There are some pics, but they aren't very good pics. Build the header with the enigne in the car, and mostly assembled. Trust me, if you do it with the engine out, you will forget something and have to totally change the design. I did this, and had to completely redesign the header becuz I forgot baout the drive axle, and in order to keep it equal length, I had to redo all 3 primaries, even though only 1 hit. Build it in the car.

Headers003.jpg

Headers002.jpg

Headers004.jpg

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I was going to sell them a while back, but someone came up and wanted to buy the entire car like it is, so I took his offer.

 

I will not be making them, becuz there isn't a demand. For every 15 people that say I want a set, 1 will commit.

 

As for the difference, I was simply amazed. It helped a lot, I'd say about 20hp, and probably at the wheels. I will have a dyno come this spring break, and I'm hoping to run 250 at the wheels.

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another question aaron where are you getting your forged internals that i was reading about on another post. I am looking for them but have been unsuccesful. The biggest pistons i have found are .040 and how much did you mill the heads?

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My Z34 has decked heads, bumping c/r to 10 even.

 

My Fiero will be running the same compression, but the bump will be in the pistons, not the heads. We are actually in kinda a bind right now. The pirce from Eagle for the forged steel stroker crank was really high, so I am going a different route. We are going to bore it, but use a stock replacement crank, thus giving us kind of a destroked setup, great for high rpm. And the money saved will go towards forged titanium connecting rods, which weigh 23% less than the Eagle H-beams, and are 6% stronger. Adding titanium rods produced a 68hp gain on a stock Z06, to the wheels. Plus the titaium rods take a lot of the ebating off of the crank, and are precisely drilled extra for better oiling. The forged aluminum pistons will be made by WIseco.

 

Originally the plan was to run 11-11.5:1 c/r, but we have since rethought this. We would have to back off or retard the timing, and the gains will be cancelled by the retarded ignition timing. So I'd want to run it on the edge, which on a really high rpm enigne will create a detination zone in the lower rpms. So we are going to use close to factory compression, this will make tuning much less essential, and yield more power. And in case you don't know, although titanium rods are much stronger, detination will kill them instantly. It will take 3-4 knocks for a tit rod to snap into a bizillion pieces. And it takes the factory knock snesor 3-4 knocks before it starts backing off itming, so this leads to disaster. So by using less c/r, we will void the issue of detination, and save my rods.

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I was going to sell them a while back, but someone came up and wanted to buy the entire car like it is, so I took his offer.

 

And I can't wait to get up near this certain someone's way again. He allready offered a ride in the car.

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Uh oh, ppl know who he is.

 

You will like the ride, I can assure you of that!

 

OH, I know I will. I've never rode in a 5speed lq1 yet, but I'm sure it will be fun.

 

Oh, and something about 300hp makes it a lot more fun if ya know what I mean :twisted:

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i still dont know how much to take off the heads???? .010????

 

You can safely take off up to .012 .

 

I think between me and Aaron on this board, we can help you with any more DOHC mods you want.

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Uh oh, ppl know who he is.

 

You will like the ride, I can assure you of that!

 

OH, I know I will. I've never rode in a 5speed lq1 yet, but I'm sure it will be fun.

 

Oh, and something about 300hp makes it a lot more fun if ya know what I mean :twisted:

 

With my mods, im hoping to be in the 240-250 range, at the crank atleast. But, my tranny mods is what really helps this car out soo much.

 

Your car should be a fun one to ride in.

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The tranny mods are good, but just wait till you feel the 5-speed, it just slams into 2nd, and plants you. It lands right at 5000 into 2nd, very sweet. I wish 3rd could be a bit closer, maybe a 85mph redline instead of 95, same goes with 4th. That is where my dads 6-speed shines, 3rd and 4th.

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