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Still having problems with charging; anytime over ~3400 RPM


slick

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Still, after about roughly 3400 RPM, the volt guage just drops like a mofo. It really seems to affect performance too, as my buddies stock 99 Cougar will fall about 1-2 carlenghts back from a 20 MPH roll. After about 6000 RPM, it feels powerless, kinda like my 3100 did after getting above 5200 RPM. It will still pull all the way past 7000 RPM to the rev limiter, but is very powerless, mainly because the volt guage just drops so low. I'm just stumped on this one. The belt feels fine, like normally tensioned. The alt. is new, and works perfect when under 3400 RPM.

 

Could it be that the side of the belt that comes in contact with the alt. pulley has worn smooth, to where at higher RPM's theres not enough contact?

 

Any connections that would cause something like this??

 

I'm just really stumped anymore with it...

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See, I have a volt guage in my dash allready, so I can see what it's doing. I have a battery charger that has a built in charging diagnostic system built into it here at my place. Unless maybe the battery is starting to go bad...

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You need the battery load tested. You can purchase your own load tester.

If the battery was failing in the first place, the alternator could be affected and doing more hard work and your new alternator might be going bad again.

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You need the battery load tested. You can purchase your own load tester.

If the battery was failing in the first place, the alternator could be affected and doing more hard work and your new alternator might be going bad again.

 

Is it possible to load test it here? Or am I going to have to run to an auto parts store?

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It is possible to load test it anywhere but you have to purchase a load tester around $20 for decent one. I got mine from our local Harborfreight.com

 

It has gauges and press the load button simulate draining of the battery charge and then release and see if the gauges show normal or bad.

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They would probably test it for free at an auto parts store though, wouldn't they.

 

Seriously, this battery does sound like it could be the cause. When my alt. went on me last time, I bought this battery to get me to the repair garage. They charged it up for me. And since my car doesn't have a working chime module, i've left my lights on once or twice.

 

Hell, I have an extra battery sitting here. I'll just swap it in tomorrow to see if it is the fix or not.

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If you have a volt meter i can tell you how to make a two piece load tester. I don't know how much of a load the loaad testers put on a battery but car taillight bulbs number 2056 draw 2 amps apeice. if you wire enough of them in series you'll get a high enough load that a bad battery's voltage will drop. I'm not sure if this is the economical way to do this but it's how I always checked batteries.

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Ouch, that means having 2 extra taillight bulbs, something I don't have. I think I'll just swap in my other battery and try that out.

 

EDIT: I have a battery charger here at my place that has a battery tester on it. Kinda resembles this one here(same manufacturer, different model number) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7946879556&category=63687. Think it would work?

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