pitzel Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002117#000003 Pretty awesome eh, and the oil really didn't suffer any significant degradation and probably could have been run, with a filter change, for another 10,000 miles at least. On a 3400-based Montana minivan, which is a 60degreeV6 engine of the same lineage as is found in our W-bodies. No need to buy overpriced Amsoil if you want to run a more reasonable oil change interval on these engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 That's awesome, I feel even more confident now. And I was just aiming for 5k changes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goph Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 that is a damn long time to go with out a oil change. I think i will just go with 5k on Mobile 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 I don't see any problem whatsoever (neither does anyone else) with changing a Mobil-1 lubricated car every 7-10k miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002117#000003 Pretty awesome eh, and the oil really didn't suffer any significant degradation and probably could have been run, with a filter change, for another 10,000 miles at least. On a 3400-based Montana minivan, which is a 60degreeV6 engine of the same lineage as is found in our W-bodies. No need to buy overpriced Amsoil if you want to run a more reasonable oil change interval on these engines. bs amsoil is still better...whoptie do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitzel Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 bs amsoil is still better...whoptie do Got UOA's? I'm a scientist and engineer by training and trade. I prefer numbers, not marketing conjecture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveFromColorado Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 I'd like to send the filters in between changes to see what all they are picking up. remember folks, all the lead you find in the oil comes from your bearings. Altho, those are still some awesome numbers for the Mobil 1 - I've been using Mobil 1 for years, and I'll always stick with it. --Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitzel Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 I'd like to send the filters in between changes to see what all they are picking up. remember folks, all the lead you find in the oil comes from your bearings. Altho, those are still some awesome numbers for the Mobil 1 - I've been using Mobil 1 for years, and I'll always stick with it. --Dave. Yeah filter analysis is something they do on aviation engines, but far too expensive to do on automotive engines because the cost of changing an engine is substantially less. There are pictures of the filter posted by the owner of the 3400 that turned in those UOA numbers, and the filter looks pretty used up. And yes, you are absolutely correct. Lead from bearings, tin and copper from the cams, and iron from the rest of the engine. Glycol ingress is really the major concern on the 60degreeV6 engines -- what a pity its even a problem for some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Pitzel, Don't know how Amsoil compares to Mobil 1, but they actually advertise a 20k service interval as long as the filter's changed in between. and Amsoil is the only oil company that I know of that actually POSTS their ASTM test results on their website, Wear scar being one of the results they post. Them being the only one that posts them definately says good things about them IMO. Also, every gearhead ME or MET professor I knew in school used Amsoil (including the ones that did oil analysis). Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPRACER Posted December 4, 2004 Report Share Posted December 4, 2004 bs amsoil is still better...whoptie do Got UOA's? I'm a scientist and engineer by training and trade. I prefer numbers, not marketing conjecture. I'm a GM trained technician, I work on engines all day long. The oil may not break down, but try telling your dealer that when your engine blows up for whatever reason. You can forget the warranty. Even if the problem is not oil related. No maintenance means No warranty. Oil change usually means chassis lube as well as other needed regular maintenance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitzel Posted December 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2004 I'm a GM trained technician, I work on engines all day long. The oil may not break down, but try telling your dealer that when your engine blows up for whatever reason. You can forget the warranty. Even if the problem is not oil related. No maintenance means No warranty. Oil change usually means chassis lube as well as other needed regular maintenance. I don't disagree for a moment that regular maintenance is important, including proper tyre inflation, checking oil and coolant levels, ATF levels, etc. But if one is the kind of person who already does this on a regular basis, then what benefit is there to spending a lot of extra money on unnecessary services or lubricants? I guess I'm (or most of us here) are not average W-body drivers. We check underneath the bonnets of our W-bodies at least a few times a year, and get underneath to inspect the undercarriage and related components. Now, I don't have a 'warranty' on my car, and have never dealt with a car salesperson nor a dealer, but this is how I personally view the whole concept of oil changes: Most brands of dino oil, change every 5000km = $14 including taxes. Esso XD-3 0W30 synthetic oil, change every 25,000km = $20 including taxes. Over 400,000km, thats 16 oil changes with XD-3 0W30 synthetic, or 80 oil changes with the dino oil. $320 worth of oil over 400,000km with the XD-3, or $1120 with the dino oil. Once you take into account 'the time value of money', using a discount rate of 8%, (average Canadian stock market return) a 10 year amortization period, and a 5% inflation rate on the cost of lubricants, the net future cost of using dino, after 10 years is $2336.29. While running the same calculations for synthetic is: $623.01 So over that interval, I have saved $1713.29. Easily enough to buy me a junkyard 3.1L V6 and 4T60 tranny. Money in my pocket is 'cheap insurance'. Not to mention the 0W30 synthetic oil will probably cause less wear, cause less fuel to be burned, and be less environmentally harmful. (the formula for the NFV is as follows: NFV = sum(n=0..10)[(annualized oil change cost)*(1+inflation %'age)^(n)*(1+discount rate)^n] ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitzel Posted November 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Still running long drains on my car. Went 60k km's (38k miles) before the LIM blew. Changed oil then when I replaced the LIM -- engine was very clean inside, other than the goop from the coolant which I wiped away with a rag (it did not emulsify!). Now 36k into my next interval (ran a brief flushing interval of el-cheapo 5W-30 inbetween). Theory is reality, my engine is still perfectly fine, has not degraded in performance or in fuel consumption, and I have hundreds of dollars in my pocket not wasted on needless motor oil changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 The link doesn't work anymore, but I think I'll stick to my oil changes at regular(read..smaller) intervals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Yeah that's insanely stupid. I see maintenance-neglected vehicles everyday at work that come in way past their interval and even then they are only getting it changed since it's in for service work. Mileage can vary depending on driving, but by around 15,000 miles the shit coming out of the pan is clumpy and diesel-black. Around 20,000 miles (but often less) is roughly when we start seeing siezed engines/severe engine knocking. And even if some of these synthetic oils can last 20,000 miles or whatever it does not matter because oil gets diluted over time with blow-by gases and condensation. In winter when the temperature differential of cold ambient air and a hot engine produces the most condensation, vehicles have come in with enough water mixed into the oil it's frozen into a solid and I have to wait a couple hours with the drain plug out for it to thaw and run out. I just want everyone reading this out there to be aware and not ruin an engine of some really boneheaded advice. 3000 mile oil changes are a thing of the past. But I'd say go 5000 on convential and around 7500 to an absolute max of 10,000 on full synthetic. I go about 5000-7000 on synthetic. I know I could go longer, but because of how mine is driven hard and raced I don't. With frequent spinning to 7000 RPM, I want good clean synthetic in there and the friction protection it provides. And overlooking the typical trashed LQ1 valve stem seals, it still runs like new despite almost 200,000 miles really hard driving/racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddroptop Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 I've been driving Mercedes Benz vehicles for the past several years and their service indicator comes up at 10,000 miles, but the oil capacity of their engines is significantly higher than other manufacturers. The E63 Wagon that I had took over 9 quarts and my C230 Kompressor with a little 1.8 engine takes just under 6 quarts. With the recommended Mobil I I see no problems with high mile oil change intervals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mater Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 ill stick to changing my dino juice at 3,000 to 4,000 miles. at 220,000 miles on the merc using synthetic would just clean out all the dirt keeping the gaskets sealed. and the 196,000 on the GTP is probably the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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