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Posted

i want to change my fluid and was looking for suggestions as far as what to put in it and when i change it is there an adjustable vacum modulator on a 93 z34 auto

 

also what break pads would u suggest

 

thanks

Posted

Quality Mobil or Castrol trans fluid and yes there is an adjustable modulator available, the one they sell you at the store should be, just look at it before you buy if its not go somewheres else, I assume you know what to look for that makes it adjustable

 

Any middle of the road Raybestos, Bendix, Wagner or Napa pad will be good, cut the rotors or replace them or dont bother doing brakes

Posted
cut the rotors or replace them or dont bother doing brakes

 

why is this and by saying cut the rotors do u mean ??

 

also is the modulator in it adjustable and isnt there like type F fluid to stiffen up shifts

 

thanks

Posted
cut the rotors or replace them or dont bother doing brakes

 

why is this and by saying cut the rotors do u mean ??

 

Get them turned. Napa or a local shop/parts store can do it.

Posted

I think to get them cut is $8 a piece and atleast an hour, buying new will cost you $20, cash and carry................I deal with mainly Napa rotors and brand new most are .080-.100" over minimum limit which usually puts them at Minimum thickness @ by next change, no cutting allowed :lol:

Posted

Yeah, about the adj. modulator. Get one for a 90 cuttlass with a 44T4/4T60. Just take the old one out, put the new one in. I love them. Its the same modulator used on a Turbo 350 'cept it has one extra part. Try about 2.0 turns in, see how you like your shift feel, then adjust with 1/4 turns to fit your liking

Posted

If rotors are still within their width tolerance and not warped, why even bother having them re-machined?

 

Brake pads are a real area of controversy on this board, but I've had great luck so far with my Raybestos Quietstops. They are a ceramic/copper based pad, and dust free so far.

Posted
TYPE-F trans fluid!! you'd be happy with the changes.

 

--Dave.

 

Hey You!! :lol:

 

Care to explain Type-F for me in a PM or something?

 

I'm going to change my fluid tomorrow...any other suggestions

Posted

ahh...is it safe to use in a 4T60?

 

and what about Synthetic fluid?

 

sorry to steal the post

Posted

If you're like me and have probably only changed your tranny fluid twice, no. If you do it at regular intervals, it's fine to switch to Type-F.

Posted
ahh...is it safe to use in a 4T60?

 

and what about Synthetic fluid?

 

sorry to steal the post

Don't put in synthetic!!! It'll cause it to slip too much, Due to all the friction modifiers in it.

Posted
ahh...is it safe to use in a 4T60?

 

and what about Synthetic fluid?

 

sorry to steal the post

Don't put in synthetic!!! It'll cause it to slip too much, Due to all the friction modifiers in it.

 

You don't know what you are talking about.

 

If it's a Dextron III fluid (which Mobil 1 synthetic ATF IS), it WILL work just fine regardless of whether it's a synthetic or not............it still has to comform to the same standard of fluid properties (otherwise it wouldn't have a Dextron III rating).

 

:roll:

Posted

oops...nm...found one of Dave's old posts on 60v6

 

I think i may make a switch to Type F today

Posted

could someone post a link to the thread 60degreeV6 bout type F fluid

 

thanks

Posted

Maching rotors on a W-Body is a waste of time. As was noted earlier, the nominal thickness is so minimal that machining them will result in premature warping, premature pad wear due to excess heating of the pads, etc.

 

If you don't have any warping just make sure you don't get grease on them while installing the pads. Otherwise toss and get new ones.

Posted

forgot to ask...how many quarts of fluid do I need...my Haynes manual says six...but i don't trust this book too much

Posted
Maching rotors on a W-Body is a waste of time. As was noted earlier, the nominal thickness is so minimal that machining them will result in premature warping, premature pad wear due to excess heating of the pads, etc.

 

If you don't have any warping just make sure you don't get grease on them while installing the pads. Otherwise toss and get new ones.

 

exactly. turning rotors and drums when they aren't warped or grooved just makes you have to buy new ones sooner.

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