oil question

[Stealth]

sorry I know this isnt the right forum for this but my friend has a 2002 honda civic and it says to change the oil every 8000kms he bought some fully synthetic Lucas 5w-20 for it, it was 13$ a litre :? , anyways how long do you think it will last? I think its a little overkill but whatever http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=39&catid=3&loc=show

[pitzel]

$13 for a litre of Lucas 5W-20? Thats ridiculously expensive.

 

Best deal in Canada on synthetic motor oil is Esso XD-3 0W30 full synthetic, which can be bought at Esso bulk dealers for $15 for a 4L jug, $60 for a case of 4x4L jugs.

 

Many engines have run in excess of a million miles on this oil with negligible wear, and the 0W30 viscosity ensures good cold-termperature performance in Canada, while it behaves much like a SAE 40 grade oil at operating temperatures.

 

XD-3 0W30/0W40 are full synthetic polyalphaolefin (1-n-decene)-based oils, and are properly additized for diesel and petrol engines.

 

(edit: XD-3 million mile teardown video at http://63.240.134.238/~wwillson/MMEenglish.mpg -- watch it, its pretty neat, and no sludge in the oilpan at all)

[pitzel]

On another note, I can't believe Honda's spec only 5000 mile oil changes on modern oils. Our cars spec a 7500 mile oil change, and that recommendation was from a time when oil was somewhat lesser in quality than what we have today.

[pitzel]

anyways how long do you think it will last? I think its a little overkill but whatever

 

Rust, and/or plain boredom with the Honda will kill it far before the engine dies.

 

Seriously though, now that I review that Lucas page, a 'racing' oil tends not to be the most appropriate choice of oils for a car that is relatively sorta frequently driven. Furthermore, 10W30 isn't appropriate for the Canadian winter climate, especially at -40C.

 

Why? Because racing oils are full of EP additives for extreme racing use, but tend to lack additives used for anti-corrosion or for water and/or sulfuric acid uptake. Also racing oils tend to contain high levels of phosphorous and manganese, both elements that tend to cause difficulties with emmissions systems components.

 

Another thing I just noticed on the spec sheet -- that Lucas oil product doesn't even meet the API SL specification (just the older SJ and SH specs), which is an obvious red-flag. For a 10W30 oil, it sure gets very 'thin' at 100degC -- 10.5 centistokes -- which is on the lower side of the SAE30 grade and probably will cause more overall wear.

[Stealth]

umm accualy its not the 0w-30 its the 5w-20 its the only synethic 5w-20 on the market afaik, cause when he bought the car no one made it. anyways its not good for the car?

[5speedz34]

Notice how it's everyone accustomed to the metric system that has posted in here.

[pitzel]

umm accualy its not the 0w-30 its the 5w-20 its the only synethic 5w-20 on the market afaik, cause when he bought the car no one made it. anyways its not good for the car?

 

5W30/0W30 is just fine for the Hondas.

 

5W20 is spec'ed for EPA reasons, similar to the situation with Ford. 0W-20 is the viscosity grade that would be used if a synthetic was desired in such engines with a SAE20 weight.

 

For the reasons I stated above, I'd 'prefer' to just use a normal oil such as Mobil1 0W-20. Phosphorous/Manganese-based additives, such as ZDDP (zinc dialkyl diphosphate) reduce oxygen sensor and catalytic converter life, and racing oils are typically chock full of them.

[HokemBokem]

Anyone remember that post that showed an experiment a guy did proving Lucas Oil to turn all soapy and cause problems? I bought oil treatment before and ended up returning it because people on here were saying how it could do more harm then good.

[pitzel]

Anyone remember that post that showed an experiment a guy did proving Lucas Oil to turn all soapy and cause problems? I bought oil treatment before and ended up returning it because people on here were saying how it could do more harm then good.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com , look on the front page.

 

Additives are just junk as far as I'm concerned. Just buy a decent oil to begin with and no need to add anything.

 

Even Wal-Mart's cheap oil is perfectly okay if you change it. If you want extended drains, then synthetic is a must.

[Regal_GS_1989]

Run Regular Dino Oil. Castrol GTX, Quaker State. The body will fall of the car in about 6 more years. So, high milage is not a huge concern. You can run well over 310 000 Kms on an 88 regal with nothing but Dino Oil.

[pitzel]

Run Regular Dino Oil. Castrol GTX, Quaker State. The body will fall of the car in about 6 more years. So, high milage is not a huge concern. You can run well over 310 000 Kms on an 88 regal with nothing but Dino Oil.

 

Yup. GTX comes out of my sister's 305cid V8-fired Cutlass Supreme looking like ass though, that junk turns black almost immediately and seems somewhat broken down after a mere 3000 or 4000km of operation in Saskatoon. The way I look at synthetic 0W30 for $15/4L is that in the wintertime, during start-up, it will easily save me $3 worth of fuel over the oil change interval simply during cold-weather startups and enhanced oil viscosity stability over the overall oil use interval.

 

I am comparing a jug of Wal-Mart purchased Castrol GTX for $12, versus a 4L jug of XD-3 0W30 for $15 at an Esso bulk dealer.

 

Are you experiencing any corrosion problems? I've barely any specs of rust on my undercarriage, and the sheet metal is clean as a whistle.

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

where are these "Esso bulk dealers" ???

 

I want some.

[Jcrow]

Aren't you supposed to use teriyaki sauce in hondas?

[Regal_GS_1989]

Run Regular Dino Oil. Castrol GTX, Quaker State. The body will fall of the car in about 6 more years. So, high milage is not a huge concern. You can run well over 310 000 Kms on an 88 regal with nothing but Dino Oil.

 

Yup. GTX comes out of my sister's 305cid V8-fired Cutlass Supreme looking like ass though, that junk turns black almost immediately and seems somewhat broken down after a mere 3000 or 4000km of operation in Saskatoon. The way I look at synthetic 0W30 for $15/4L is that in the wintertime, during start-up, it will easily save me $3 worth of fuel over the oil change interval simply during cold-weather startups and enhanced oil viscosity stability over the overall oil use interval.

 

I am comparing a jug of Wal-Mart purchased Castrol GTX for $12, versus a 4L jug of XD-3 0W30 for $15 at an Esso bulk dealer.

 

Are you experiencing any corrosion problems? I've barely any specs of rust on my undercarriage, and the sheet metal is clean as a whistle.

 

Corrosion Problems?? On My 88, yea, just a bit. The undercarrige is pretty good, just a few surface spots where the paint has come off of the cradle, but the body isn't that great, it's rusted out a bit on the bottem of the rear quarters. But that car is 17 years old, never garaged a day in it life. My GS on the other hand is totally clean, except for a bit of rust discolouration on the cradle. And of course, the starting of the rust on my 15 year old muffler.

[pitzel]

where are these "Esso bulk dealers" ???

 

I want some.

 

http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-English/Products/Lubricants/PS_L_Distributors.asp

 

The product you should be looking for (0W-30 XD-3 Extra oil) is:

 

http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESEsso_Xd-3_extra.pdf

[Stealth]

I dont understand why you guys rag on hondas so much, accualy I wanna get a honda when I get a new car

[bartonmd]

why do we rag on Hondas so much???

 

I have NOTHING against Honda as a company... every bike I've had that I went looking for (not ones that fell in my lap) have been hondas. I am a big fan of hondas! It's with the cars I have a problem... not with the cars, but with some of the people who drive them and what they do to them. The Honda civic is a great econo-box, but with it's econo-box status comes people with extra money to do everything but make it fast. That's how it started, now it has become everybody thinking it's "cool" to get a civic and rice it out. Just my $.02

 

Mike

[SigEpCutlass]

I dont understand why you guys rag on hondas so much, accualy I wanna get a honda when I get a new car

 

Why do i hate honda? punk ass kids with overly loud cars that don't go anywhere fast...

for all the rest of the good things honda does for their cars, they can't make a fucking lock to save their lives. As a high schooler, i used a coat hanger to pick the lock of a 96 accord, and a 99 civic. Mind you my friends locked their keys in their car. The fact that I, a hs student, who was not a professional car theif could break in using a coat hanger in the lock is simply appalling...

what good is having a nice car if it gets stolen all the fucking time...

 

that just might be why they are the most stolen cars in america...

[White93z34]

i don't hate honda they make great cars with amaseing technology inside the engines, the newer v6 accords are damn quick and good looking.

 

basicly ever since "Fast and the Furiuos" came out theres been a stigma associated with honda in general, the rice crowd stigma. like hell i have a friend whos scooting around in a old ass 90' civic its slow, unattractive and small. but that grandma mobile gets him around ok, what kills me is i could go on cardomain.com and find a shitload of idiots who think that the 90' civic base model is one hell of a machine in stock form.

[93CutlassSupreme]

Aren't you supposed to use teriyaki sauce in hondas?

 

 

 

i only buy American cars. i can't understand driving a car designed across a world by some foreginer who doesn't give a rat's ass about america.

[Stealth]

granted I think those stupid ricers are pathetic, its not the company in general, they make great cars. 8)

[Jcrow]

:withstupid:

What he said

 

p.s. I want an i'm with stupid T-shirt