Performance for the old 3.1 V6? Turned into brake question..

[1990lumina]

What can I do to improve the performance of my 1990 Lumina 3.1 Euro? I got embrassed by my friends 1989 Taurus 3.0L w/ a slipping transmission lol. I feel like something is dragging me down when I'm accelerating, e-brake is not on, etc..

 

So what can I do instead of swabpping the motor for the 3.4 or a new generation one? I want to do something with the existing motor to get more performance out of it if possible, however, not turbo lol, I don't know if any performance parts exist for that motor.

 

Also, what options do I have to upgrade the braking system, like pads, rotors, the booster if needed...?

 

I feel like the 3.1L should be much faster then it is, I can only accelerate to 0-60mph in 10s or more..plus after 4 grad the motor seems to completely fall off the power band...

 

Any suggestions, if I race my friends Taurus again I'd like to win lol, plus he has a slipping tranny in his car, I don't know how he won

 

thanks

 

- Jeff L.

[1990lumina]

Sorry, it occurred to me this should have been in the performance section, sorry moderators!

[pitzel]

"Performance Section"? Really isn't any such thing.

 

Something dragging you down while you're driving? Check out those rear brakes Maybe your calipers are seized.

 

Insofar as the 3.1 is concerned, its pretty much a dead-end. A K&N, synthetic oil, removal of the spare tyre and jack from the trunk, for very minor gains, but otherwise, you're at a dead end without doing a 3800 swap.

 

Just my thoughts. Someone prove me wrong.

[Guest TurboSedan]

3.1 MPFI needs a turbo, or nitrous. better off starting with a 3100, and even then it would take ALOT of work to make it fast without forced induction.

[90TGP]

Best thing, loose the 3.1 and have an L67 swapped in.

[1990lumina]

Hmmm, I see, thanks guys!

[Guest TurboSedan]

Best thing, loose the 3.1 and have an L67 swapped in.

 

uh oh here come the die-hard 60* guys

[HokemBokem]

Also, what options do I have to upgrade the braking system, like pads, rotors, the booster if needed...?

 

With the brakes you could get some nice rotors and pads all the way around. Also you could consider the 95 or 96+ brake swap.

[jeremy]

Best thing, loose the 3.1 and have an L67 swapped in.

 

uh oh here come the die-hard 60* guys

 

I'm not a "die hard 60* guy" but th L67 swap isn't the answer to every question about getting better performance from your w-body....

[Guest TurboSedan]

I'm not a "die hard 60* guy" but th L67 swap isn't the answer to every question about getting better performance from your w-body....

 

i agree 100% i would prefer a Turbo 3.1 or a 3400 swap over an L67 but that's just me.

[rudefyet]

if you've got acess to tools and stuff you need to make your own parts then you can build a 3.1 monster

[Stealth]

I feel like the 3.1L should be much faster then it is, I can only accelerate to 0-60mph in 10s or more..plus after 4 grad the motor seems to completely fall off the power band...

 

 

 

yes exatly a stock 3.1 is about 10 seconds, and after 4000 there isnt anythign since the max hp is at 4200 and the max torque is at 3200

[GutlessSupreme]

10 seconds? I've timed at least 14.

[rudefyet]

i timed 9 seconds w/ my speedo...

 

due to the fact mines off a bit...approx. 10 seconds should be right

 

i think some magazine got 9.7 seconds

[no1kicker]

What's your budget? UD pulley, rockers, K&N, cut off cat, poly upper mounts.

[1990lumina]

The budget isn't to much.. I thought there might be some cheaper bolt ons that might boost it up a bit with the power, but it doesn't sound like there is to much out there. I'm pretty much a n00b when it comes to getting more performance out of a piston engine, however I know pretty much there is to know about rotary engines since I own a first generation RX-7 (I know I know, An Import?!? )..

 

Thanks for all the replies though, I'll just stick with what I have as far as engine, however, I'm still interested in the brakes. No one needs to tell me that the first gen w-body brakes suck, but mine seem to be alot worse.

My pedal goes prety much to the floor, the pads and rotors were done at GM this summer when my grandma still owned the car, and the rear calipers were seized according to the repair order. So all rotors were replaced, pads, and apparently everything was working good.

 

It seems that I don't even have enough power/pressure to lock the wheels on dry pavement, with the pedal to the floor stopping is decent. On the occassion that one of the wheels do lock up, it is always the left front tire, then the right front, I also notice ALOT of brake dust on the front wheels, but barely anything on the rear wheels, which leads me to believe the rears are seized again, but in spring I want to just put on some bigger rotors if possible, cross-drilled if I can find any, some high performance pads, and some calipers that won't seize.

 

Any suggestions on using the existing braking system and just upgrading the rotors, pads and calipers? Or is it more involved then that? In regards to the budget for brakes my dad is going to pay because he doesn't like the brakes in my car right now and said we should upgrade them if possible in the spring. Any suggestions guys??

 

From what I've heard the 95 and 96 brakes were worse on the Lumina because they had rear drums and front discs, but correct me if I'm wrong..

 

Thanks again

 

- Jeff L.

[GutlessSupreme]

I'm pretty much a n00b when it comes to getting more performance out of a piston engine,

 

At first I had though you mistakenly said piston instead of pushrod then you mentioned the rotaries.. I understand

 

But for brakes, '94+ rear calipers carry bigger 11" rotors and were redesigned to fixed the seizing issue...

 

for the fronts, '96-'97 brakes are bigger by 3/4"s, but use the same size pad. You need to get the front strut tower assembly for that project though if you want something that bolts right in, because the caliper braket mount on the strut towers is welded on.. they're the only thing that changed, just moved the caliper out to fit the bigger rotors.

 

'94+ ABS (i have no idea if that's the correct year, sounds right though) was a better, redesigned system that supposedly will bolt in I think, but I don't know if anyone has actually done that swap though, nor do I know the exact details on it.

[Robby1870]

Ive never been impressed my W body brakes, but Ive never really been concerned with how they wont lock up wheels on dry pavement. I dont know why you think thats so important, W's dont handle so I hope you're not auto crossing this thing. If you want more peformance, you'll have to pretty much get into the motor to get it

[mfewtrail]

The budget isn't to much.. I thought there might be some cheaper bolt ons that might boost it up a bit with the power, but it doesn't sound like there is to much out there. I'm pretty much a n00b when it comes to getting more performance out of a piston engine, however I know pretty much there is to know about rotary engines since I own a first generation RX-7 (I know I know, An Import?!? )..

- Jeff L.

 

1st Gen eh? I just joined the 2nd Gen crowd(1990 Turbo II).

 

 

Like everyone else said, you're pretty much going to have to do some serious modding to get some decent power out of the 3.1. Search the board here or over at 60* V6 for info on top end swaps if you're willing to do that much work. You should be able to acquire everything you need from local junkyards for a decent price.

[90TGP]

Drop a rotory into it! j/k, although that would be cool to see

 

http://www.fastfwdperformance.com pretty much carries everything performance related for the 3.1. You can get the underdrive pully, the motor mounts, and the chip. You can also make a cheap intake by buying the APC Civic intake found at any parts store and cuting it to length.

[93CutlassSupreme]

NAWZZZZZZZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[1990lumina]

Alright, thanks guys for all the replies, I'll be up all night looking into it, and if I decide on something I'll keep you posted.

 

That would be something to see a rotary in a W-Body, but that would take A LOT of work, however I have seen GM and Ford motors in RX-7s that go pretty god, however, most where very front heavy after that...

 

Anyways, thanks again

 

- Jeff L.

[90TGP]

Suprisingly, the LS1 weighs less then the twinturbo rotory from the FD. There's videos of a black FD on the net with an LS1 swap running 10s.

[Stealth]

dude 14 seconds Ive timed my car at like 10.2

[excelsior]

turbo3.1 setup....couple that with fastfwdperformance and a boost controller and low 14's/high 13's is possible....then lose some weight(w bodies are fatties) and dont autocross(poor handling & worse brakes....on a side note i have only driven one car w/ worse breaks thean a w body and that was a non-SHO Taurus. Actually those cars are really worse in every possible manner.