My Cutty is dead

[gimp19]

My Cutty died today when I was hitting a 55 (it died when I was going 30 and gave it a little gas). I had to tow it home because it wont start, it just cranks over and shakes alittle bit. I have no idea what parts to replace and dont want to put alot of money into fixing it if its going to cost alot I'm gonna buy somthing else.

 

It died on me about a month ago but started up after a 1/2hour, It was running perfectly fine after that so I didnt replace anything.

[jeremy]

[Jcrow]

Crank sensor!!!

[Jcrow]

or ECM. They put a coating on the circuit board that shrinks and pulls the traces off

[cmo1234]

Crank sensor!!!

:withstupid:

 

gets my vote too. Cheap part ($20) and somewhat easy to replace on a 3.1

[Stealth]

icm?

[95 3-4]

Start with checking for spark and also spray some gas or starting fluid in the throttle body to see if it needs gas to run, its probably needs one or the other and both

 

Is the 3.1 crank sensor anything like the 3.4 crank sensor? the 3.4 looks like you have to pull the balancer off

[gimp19]

I have a 2.8 pretty much the same as the older 3.1's, I just bought a ICM I'm gonna install it on friday hopefully it works if not I'll try a Crankshaft Position sensor.

[terryk2003]

I have a 2.8 pretty much the same as the older 3.1's, I just bought a ICM I'm gonna install it on friday hopefully it works if not I'll try a Crankshaft Position sensor.

 

 

like someone said earlier...you should check for spark first...if its getting spark, then try spraying some carb cleaner in the throttle body while cranking it and see if it'll start up...if it starts up that way, its prolly fuel related...most likely a bad fuel pump...if you have no spark...then check Crank Sensor or ICM...you could throw parts @ it all day and not fix it...you need to get some idea of the problem first...

[GnatGoSplat]

I think it's better to buy tools to rule out problems rather than buying a whole bunch of parts and replacing stuff.

 

I would get a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pump first.

Then move to the ICM, ECM, and crank sensor.

[gimp19]

I tried starting fluid when it was on the side of the road and it made no differance.

[gimp19]

Anyone have experiance changing an ICM, is it a major task or somthing I can do in a 1/2hour? Also do I have to remove the coolant reservoir?

[terryk2003]

well....i've changed the ICM in a ford 5.0 and a buick 3.8 ...but, i don't think that'll be any help here... :? ...anywayz...since you said that starting fluid wouldn't start it...it sounds like you're on the right track with ignition...

 

FWIW: you can take the old ICM to NAPA or most other part stores and have it checked...

[Justin]

To remove the ICM on your CS I've found the easiest way providing you've got ramps is to get it up in the air, lay underneath it with your legs towards the rear of the car and pull the 6 tiny bolts from the coils out. Don't remove the plate it mounts to, I believe some AC stuff is in the way. Other than that it's pretty easy. The worst part is finding the right size socket for the coil bolts.

[gimp19]

Do I have to take the coils completly off the ICM to remove it?

[Brian P]

Do I have to take the coils completly off the ICM to remove it?

 

yes sir!

 

I have removed mine under the car, I think I removed either the oil filter or the oil pressure sensor to get the bottom bolt of the bracket. The 2 top (side) bolts I got from the top. Just remember they're 13mm, the 14mm bolt is the coolant drain plug. Don't remove that. ...... :oops:

[gimp19]

My Haynes Manual says to just remove the the three bolts that hold the ICM on, and then remove the coils from it after its off the car

[Brian P]

My Haynes Manual says to just remove the the three bolts that hold the ICM on, and then remove the coils from it after its off the car

 

Yeah that's what I do. The 3 bolts holds the backing plate onto the block. The 6 small bolts holds the coil packs to the backing plate (2 bolts per coil), with the ICM sandwiched in between.

[gimp19]

I think I'm gonna try the crankshaft position sensor first, any tips on locating it and doing the swap? Its getting cold and wet around here and I dont want to take all day.

[R Dubya]

The coils are attached with 2 7/32" bolts that screw into the plate that holds them to the block. It is easier to remove the 3 13mm bolts that holds the entire assembly to the block, disconnect the wiring harness from the ICM and the whole thing will come out. It's a lot easier than screwing with the angle and the 6 tiny bolts that just hold on the coils. The 13mm bolts are on both sides of the coils, and the last one is on the bottom.

 

These bolt sizes are what is on my TGP, so they could be different. I prefer to remove the assembly when I change or test those.

[R Dubya]

I think I'm gonna try the crankshaft position sensor first, any tips on locating it and doing the swap? Its getting cold and wet around here and I dont want to take all day.

 

Crank sensor can be a bitch to change. Is it on the rear of the engine near the firewall. One bolt holds it on, I think 7 or 8mm, but be very careful when removing it as it can snap from being very brittle. Make sure you have a solid grip on it, don't wiggle it too far in any direction, just give it a twist as you pull it up. When you install the new one coat the o-ring with a little oil and it will install easily.

[gimp19]

I cant get it off, right now I thinking about getting it towed to a garage. If the repair is expensive I'm gonna get rid of it.

[gimp19]

I decided to donate my Cutty :bawl: I still love it to death but its starting to become unreliable and I want to get somthing 96 or newer with lower milage.

any ideas, I kinda like the 97+ regals with 3800,

[Brian P]

Don't want to sell it, eh...

[gimp19]

Its just to much of a pain trying to sell a car that dosnt run, I wouldnt get much for it anyway. When it was running it ran great though.