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How-To: P&P Intakes low budget


sonyman87

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436966_100_full.jpg

Its alot smoother then the picture appears

 

as you can tell by the pic its NO perofessional job but you wouldn't beable to tell it from the drivers seat. I highly recomend doing this if you have the time and want a little more from your motor. If anything all i did was cleanup and smooth out some of the RUFF surface inside there.

 

Tools

 

Dremal with sanding wheel

4x 40grit 4x 80grit 4x 150+grit

Sandpaper as smooth as you have time for.

refreshments :wink:

 

 

Importnat that you dont distort the walls very much and make the air volocity change alot. Keep everything even in your work. You can apply the same thing to the upper intake. I did the air exits on the upper intake and flushed everything out with water. be sure to take out the TPS and IAC water = death to those parts.

 

start with the Dremal with 40then80 then 150+sand wheel

Start from the top work your wa inside. Just do everything the same for each chamber.

 

Optional but recomended

Handsand with sandpaper to smooth out inner lining ruffles left by sandwheel i did mine to 150grit but i also tried a sand stone and all it did was goudge the inside leaving those ripples you can see in the pic.

so do NOT use grind stone like i did :roll:

 

 

give yourself a minimum of 3 hours nonestop sanding time alone b/c the material takes its time to clogup sandpaper and eat up sanding wheels.

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Does a simple P&P job like that really make any differance, or is this an ass-o-meter test? I mean it would be really sweet if it made some differance, but without doing a full job on the upper intake (impossible) I just don't see how polishing 3" of runner length is going to make any sort of differance. Especially since the ports in the heads themselves aren't smooth. I wish we had some G-tech numbers at least to make a comparison here because if that little bit of sanding will net me some horsepower I'll be the next on to do it, but otherwise I just don't see the point in wasting a day polishing something no one will ever see.

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Does a simple P&P job like that really make any differance, or is this an ass-o-meter test? I mean it would be really sweet if it made some differance, but without doing a full job on the upper intake (impossible) I just don't see how polishing 3" of runner length is going to make any sort of differance. Especially since the ports in the heads themselves aren't smooth. I wish we had some G-tech numbers at least to make a comparison here because if that little bit of sanding will net me some horsepower I'll be the next on to do it, but otherwise I just don't see the point in wasting a day polishing something no one will ever see.

 

as for a matter of fact i did gtech the stuff but g-tech isnt accurate enough to claim 1 or 2 tenths difference..

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Just matching up the ports will help reduce turbulence. I have done this on my own car, not that I could tell you what its worth considering all the other work I did at the same time. I ported a lower intake for someone else and they said the power kicked in sooner in the RPM range and he could feel a difference. I don't make claims on it though and its really only theory that says it should help. If you really want to get into it though, the head ports are quite a bit larger than the runners in the lower intake and the plenum, minus the last 2" of the runner up inside the plenum since its a ram tunnel setup.

 

I won't be trying my "extremely" ported out lower till I get my fabbed/stock plenum back on, but I will tell you its a ton of metal taken out...and impossible to go far enough to match the heads exactly using 91-95 parts. I do predict my top end will be a rocket and my bottom end is gonna take a pretty good hit.

 

The plenum is kinda funny, because everyone assumes it needs to be ported all the way up in there. The runners past that bend are pretty nice actually. Its the bolt bosses that get in the way in 2 runners and most of the real work on them can be done without cutting it up to port inside it.

 

I wouldn't do this with a dremel though, it takes me long enough with a die grinder, metal cutting bits, and sand paper rolls. Gasket matching is as far as I would attempt with the dremel, unless I had nothing better to do for a week.

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