Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
or you could spend more money and buy a newer car that isn't as likely to break.

 

face it, old cars break because they're worn out. plus, there's a greater change they've been abused because they've been around longer.

 

it's been a good while since i've put more than $20 at a time into my car, and i've already saved a ton of money i can put down on my truck.

 

it's all what you want. you can keep on putting money into an old car that isn't worth much to start with and will break again as things wear out, or you can put that money towards a newer car that will probably be more reliable which means costs less to maintain.

 

Or (as Jay's Aveo has already taught us) buy a newer car that has more possibility for unknown problems and uncertainties. Perhaps those of us with older cars know the problems we face, and even the wear and tear on these older cars isn't as bad as it seems. Most worn out parts can be replaced, and there are still enough decent-condition models to replace said worn out parts.

 

Not all old cars are as disposable as they seem. I'm comfortable with driving my Lumina around and dealing with what may come, because I'm certain that there isn't going to be a huge problem I can't deal with, outside of the engine falling out of my car.

 

Also, the worth of a car doesn't always translate to reliability. Ever wonder why you see so many older W's still on the road, even beat to hell? Hint: the fact that they're still driving...?

 

but, auto parts aren't cheap. fixing worn-out shit isn't cheap, even if you provide the labor. if i added up everything i've done to my car, i've easly spend more than a blue-book value, and i haven't even touched the engine or trans. just brake and suspension parts that wear out over time.

 

i'd rather have a newer car. we had one problem with my mom's Impala (a wiring issue fixed free) and my dad's Silverado has needed a steering stabilizer which is understandable because of the condition of Michigan roads. if you buy a newer car that is known to be solid and trouble-free you will pay less to maintain it than an older car.

 

i'm not ripping on Jay, but i'm really not surprised that car broke. it's a cheap Korean car. (no offense if he reads this). Japanese cars wern't the best in quality when they were introduced either, they rusted quicker than Fords.

Posted

ever try buying parts for new cars?? rotors, everything is more expensive, and god forbid it gets body damage that insureance for one reason or another can't cover, can you say EXPENSIVE!

 

thanks but i'll take my car with rotors that i have to change more often but are still cheeper then most cars.

Posted
ever try buying parts for new cars?? rotors, everything is more expensive, and god forbid it gets body damage that insureance for one reason or another can't cover, can you say EXPENSIVE!

 

thanks but i'll take my car with rotors that i have to change more often but are still cheeper then most cars.

 

Werd. Kevin, I'm sorry, but wherever you buy auto parts, they're ripping you off. Your car most likely blue books around $2000. I seriously spent less than $1000 fixing any and all problems I ever had with the Grand Prix. I'll spend about that much getting a new engine/transmission for the Lumina.

 

I spent $15 each for my two rear brake rotors, and they didn't pulsate. Cheap stuff works, and worked well for me. I spent $35 on a brand new battery.

 

I spent $0 on the Cavalier, and it drives just fine. The Lumina drives well too, though it's just sprung a coolant leak, and I just bought a new knock sensor for it ($35).

Posted
ever try buying parts for new cars?? rotors, everything is more expensive, and god forbid it gets body damage that insureance for one reason or another can't cover, can you say EXPENSIVE!

 

thanks but i'll take my car with rotors that i have to change more often but are still cheeper then most cars.

 

you're missing the point. newer cars don't need parts as much.

 

i am looking foreword to my truck though that stops better than my car.

 

imagine that, a truck that stops better than a family car.

 

don't you think when GM was designing w-bodies, meant to be a family car, that safety and good brakes would be a prime concern?

 

also, what kind of body damage won't insurance cover? Allstate collision and compresensive coverage have always covered any of our body damage needs (except my car which doesn't have collision because it isn't worth enough to merit the additional premium cost)

Posted
ever try buying parts for new cars?? rotors, everything is more expensive, and god forbid it gets body damage that insureance for one reason or another can't cover, can you say EXPENSIVE!

 

thanks but i'll take my car with rotors that i have to change more often but are still cheeper then most cars.

 

Werd. Kevin, I'm sorry, but wherever you buy auto parts, they're ripping you off. Your car most likely blue books around $2000. I seriously spent less than $1000 fixing any and all problems I ever had with the Grand Prix. I'll spend about that much getting a new engine/transmission for the Lumina.

 

I spent $15 each for my two rear brake rotors, and they didn't pulsate. Cheap stuff works, and worked well for me. I spent $35 on a brand new battery.

 

I spent $0 on the Cavalier, and it drives just fine. The Lumina drives well too, though it's just sprung a coolant leak, and I just bought a new knock sensor for it ($35).

 

i've spent -

 

two wal-mart batteries $35 a piece

 

8 Bosch premium brake rotors, $35 a piece

 

2 sets of Bosch brake pads, $35 a set

 

4 Raybestos PG plus brake rotors, $40 a piece

 

1 set of AC Delco brake pads, $50

 

2 reman alternators, $130 a piece

 

4 struts plus installation, $400

 

two outer tierods plus installation, $250

 

2 reman rear calipers, $80 a piece

 

2 reman front calipers, $35 a piece

 

2 Napa slotted brake rotors, $86 a piece

 

2 cheap brake rotors, $13 a piece

 

cheap brake pads, $15

 

i'm sure i've forgottten shit, and that's gotta be close to $1500. now, i need an engine or trans mount or possibly axles, and a monoleaf. way too much money to be spend on a car that i'd be lucky to get 2 grand for if i sold it.

Posted

From what I've collected, you spent that much on brakes because you were trying to correct a problem that isn't a true problem, i.e. your brake pedal pulsating. :lol: Also, you spent waaaaayy too much on those alternators. I've never spent more than $60 on an alternator. Same price I paid for a battery, though. But I didn't need more than one.

 

Autozone is where I've bought all this stuff, too.

Posted
From what I've collected, you spent that much on brakes because you were trying to correct a problem that isn't a true problem, i.e. your brake pedal pulsating. :lol: Also, you spent waaaaayy too much on those alternators. I've never spent more than $60 on an alternator. Same price I paid for a battery, though. But I didn't need more than one.

 

Autozone is where I've bought all this stuff, too.

 

my brakes are a real problem. brakes are unsafe when they don't even really apply until the pedal is depressed a quarter of it's travel.

 

my alternators came from a auto parts chain called Murrays, they had a rebuilt alt for just over $100, the reman i bought, and a new alt for close to $200.

 

my car eats batteries. a battery lasts a year in my car. i don't have a loud-ass radio or anything either.

Posted
From what I've collected, you spent that much on brakes because you were trying to correct a problem that isn't a true problem, i.e. your brake pedal pulsating. :lol: Also, you spent waaaaayy too much on those alternators. I've never spent more than $60 on an alternator. Same price I paid for a battery, though. But I didn't need more than one.

 

Autozone is where I've bought all this stuff, too.

 

my brakes are a real problem. brakes are unsafe when they don't even really apply until the pedal is depressed a quarter of it's travel.

 

my alternators came from a auto parts chain called Murrays, they had a rebuilt alt for just over $100, the reman i bought, and a new alt for close to $200.

 

my car eats batteries. a battery lasts a year in my car. i don't have a loud-ass radio or anything either.

 

I've never had a problem with the stopping power of my car. I got a used alternator that worked properly for $35. I've never had my car "eat" a battery.

 

Maybe you've got a bum car or something. *shrug* It's happened. It also depends on how much you're willing to put up with the negative for how much positive. I love the way my car handles and drives, and I can put up with a few things here and there. Small shit doesn't bother me.. well, neither does big shit. I've been driving around on a bad knock sensor for since I've gotten the Lumina.. :lol:

Posted

these cars drive nice, but they don't handle, and don't stop worth shit.

 

it's just time for me to move on. that's all. this car hasn't left me stranded in 3 years, and i am thankful for that. it's just time for me to drive something i want.

Posted

you all might laugh at me for this.

 

no particular order

 

2 new rear calipers, pads, rotors, $200 (which worked fine and strong 20,000 miles later, and i just rebuilt them for a credit in class, with new pads, and turning the rotors.)

 

4 new tires, $400 roughly

 

4 new wheels, $425

 

new exhaust system (done at midas) $360

 

2 new timing belts and covers, $600 total (did myself)

 

2 new alternators $140

 

rust touch up on car with paint, $600

 

FFP chip, $120

 

UD pully, $80

 

plugs and wires, $80

 

and the tranny, $1600

 

K&N filter, free

 

and a grand total of....

 

$4605

 

yeah..

Posted
you all might laugh at me for this.

 

no particular order

 

2 new rear calipers, pads, rotors, $200 (which worked fine and strong 20,000 miles later, and i just rebuilt them for a credit in class, with new pads, and turning the rotors.)

 

4 new tires, $400 roughly

 

4 new wheels, $425

 

new exhaust system (done at midas) $360

 

2 new timing belts and covers, $600 total (did myself)

 

2 new alternators $140

 

rust touch up on car with paint, $600

 

FFP chip, $120

 

UD pully, $80

 

plugs and wires, $80

 

and the tranny, $1600

 

K&N filter, free

 

and a grand total of....

 

$4605

 

yeah..

 

all i can say is damn.

 

:smilielol:

Posted

What does all of this have to do w/my idle problem?

 

Geez, I leave for a weekend and my thread gets JACKED!!

 

:lol:

Posted
What does all of this have to do w/my idle problem?

 

Geez, I leave for a weekend and my thread gets JACKED!!

 

:lol:

 

Welcome to W-body.com! :D

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...