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How-To: battery relocation Update: now with Images


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Posted

Follow each step total project cost is less then $50

 

equipment needed

 

drill+bits

electrical tape

Knife or wire cutters

4ga-0ga O-ring connector

screwdriver

metric socket set 8mm - 14mm

12 feet of 4-0 gauge wire(amp wire is ok) ~$25

4-0gauge Positive and negative battery connectors(2-4feet) ~$5

corse sandpaper or file to clean surfaces

battery box ~$15

total price $45 maybe less or more if you dont have have tools

 

1. Aquire items on the equipment needed list

 

2. find a new location to install battery best location is in the trunk.

 

3. Mount the box to the car according to battery box instructions

 

4. remove driverside frame brace and water tank. If you have factory airbox remove this also.

 

5. remove battery hold down brackets

 

6. dissconnect the battery

 

7. remove battery (this is a good idea to cleanup any rust or crosion where the battery has been sitting. )

 

8. Run 4-0gauge wire from posotive terminal post threw firewall under interior carpets along the door frame to the turnk where battery is to be located. Connect the end in the trunk to the battery connector cabel. be sure to insulate open connections with electrical tape.

 

9. Remove negative ground to the frame and clean up contact area. If nessasary relocat ground to frame. (stock ground will work for starting car)

 

10. secure the poitive and negative battery terminals under the hood out of the way, be sure to either cut or tape up exposed wire like the battery screws.

 

11. Locate a place to ground the battery in the trunk. a good location is under teh carpet within reaching distance of mounted box(i put mine on a trunk latch bolt) and be sure to clean grounded surface area well.

 

12. reinstall all carpeting and cosmetics including water tank and frame brace.

 

13. Install the battery into the battery box and connect terminals. Start the car!

 

 

Note: a fuesbox may be installed if you feel nesasary. again car amp equipment will work. i recomend a fuse Greater then 100amps Personaly i ahve test 150amp fuse and it works nicely for starting and driving with headlights

 

 

Images: moved to page2 if the links work

 

 

The Strap dosnt seem like much to hold in place a 20-30pound battery but it does really nicely. hasnt budged in since installation and i do crazy driving.

Posted

This is a great how-to and it can only get better with pictures... I'm definately going to keep this as a reference since I would like to relocate my battery. A true CAI would be awesome.

Posted

well this one was requested and i think i will make a few more writeups and label them all "How-To:" and subject next time with pics

 

i remember when everyone wanted to help out and we all said we would do something to help i guess thats what im going to do.. exactly what i said i was going to do.

 

I will post my writeups when i finnish them

Posted

very nice HOW TO...i am considering relocating my battery also...i wasnt sure how hard it would be...i was thinin it'd be a PITA...but, after this write up...it doesnt seem so bad...i'm thinkin if i ever get my 3400...i'll put the battery in the trunk when i install the new engine...and THANX for this write up...its VERY GOOD!!! :wink:

Posted

just an idea, maybe this could be added or linked to digitaloutsider's sticky about w-body info, so it could be found easily for future reference.

Posted

I have been looking into this so I can mount my big turbo. Regular batteries vent hydrogen when they are being charged. There are vents between the trunk and the interior. Make sure the box is sealed well and you need a vent tube to outside the car. OR you can get an optima battery which needs no box or no vent!

Posted

Wouldent it be really easy to install a system with the battery in the trunk also? It almost sounds worth it just for that.

Posted
Wouldent it be really easy to install a system with the battery in the trunk also? It almost sounds worth it just for that.

 

Exactly! and yes its very simple from there. i should have some pics by tomarrow

Posted

yeah definately it doesn't seem that hard now that there's pics to back up the instructions...future project :twisted:

Posted

4ga is too small. from the way you grounded it, i foresee electrical problems in your car's future.

 

i recommend: call summit and get their kit for $43, comes with 2ga cable. gound to the frame rail of the car.

Posted
4ga is too small. from the way you grounded it, i foresee electrical problems in your car's future.

 

i recommend: call summit and get their kit for $43, comes with 2ga cable. gound to the frame rail of the car.

 

the stock battery cables arent even 2ga. how do you figure that 4ga its not enough? battery charges just fine and on really cold days i get 14.5volts on full charge and no problems starting. when the car is off its a steady 13.2volts with load.

 

 

do you realize how big 4gauge is???

Posted

do you realize how short a run stock cables need to make as opposed to the run from the trunk to the starter?

Posted
do you realize how short a run stock cables need to make as opposed to the run from the trunk to the starter?
yes there is a long run from the trunk to the stock ground, but that dosnt change the amount of draw the electrical system uses. All your electrical devices ground themselves to the frame.

 

im not saying 2ga dosnt work im sure it does just fine. Im just saying 4ga will work just fine. we are not trying to start a deisel motor or a big block v8 here.. just a small-midsize v6

Posted

4 ga wire is good enough to ground and to power but i have never been one to go with enough ......i like to go overboard as much as i can so i went to the local car audio shop and got some 0 gauge just have to get the battery box from summit or i will make one out of fiberglass because when in doubt go with fiberglass :D

Posted
your last line of your sig says it all :lol:

 

:rocking: Yes it does.

 

I can be hardheaded sometimes with opinions. Im going to stop writing all these stupid howtos now b/c everyone is a cridict and they can just ask for the info instead of me starting a new thread everytime.

 

-nate

Posted

thanks for the the write up......I considered doing this after I found out that my father's Lincoln LS came stock with the battery in the rear....it sounded like a good idea, but I don't know if I will ever do it...

Posted
your last line of your sig says it all :lol:

 

:rocking: Yes it does.

 

I can be hardheaded sometimes with opinions. Im going to stop writing all these stupid howtos now b/c everyone is a cridict and they can just ask for the info instead of me starting a new thread everytime.

 

-nate

 

no don't stop just because a few people are being assholes. I found this very useful and plan on using it soon. Make more! How about installing new struts and front lowering springs? I plan on doing that in the future.

Posted

constructive criticism does not equal being an asshole. not being able to take constructive criticism does.

Posted

Sorry, I know its off topic, but I see your subs are facing backwards. Do they sound better that way?

Posted
Sorry, I know its off topic, but I see your subs are facing backwards. Do they sound better that way?

 

they normally sound better facing the rear....

Posted

If you notice the Origonal Post i updated it to 4ga-0ga.. Obiously its a preference thing and im not going to force my opinion onto anyone.

 

Sorry, I know its off topic, but I see your subs are facing backwards. Do they sound better that way?

 

Yes it helps with accustics. Plus it alows me to bolt the box to the frame giving a better kick in the cab.

  • 10 months later...

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